About seven years ago I posted this list of Essential Outdoor Knots on the Hammockcamping Group, a little later I posted it again here on hammockforums.net. As this topic comes up pretty regular I decided to make an article of it and update all the links from the original topic.
My Grandfather taught me tons of knots. He was an old time honest-to-goodness cowboy and outdoorsman and he never ceased to amaze me at the number of things one could do with the right rope and a good knot. I can tie about 30 knots from memory, but the Essential Outdoor Knots are those that I find myself using most often and teaching to others who are along for their first trip. Generally they are easy to tie, easy to untie and have multiple uses.
I have over the years added and subtracted various knots, replacing them with similar knots that are either easier to tie or untie, but serve the same purpose. I now call the list "10 Essential Knots for the Outdoorsman". With an addendum to a few other notable knots!
10 Essential Knots for the Outdoorsman
End knots: End knots are tied in the end of a cut rope to keep it from fraying. Whipping, melting or back braiding is considered superior, but when time is of the essence, these knots will do the trick. They may also be used for 'stopper knots'. Used primarily to stop the bitter end of the rope from slipping past a primary knot (for safety's sake), but also used to stop the rope at a certain point when using a pulley or for measurement.
Loops: Or knots that form loops, are very numerous. Even the old standby, the Bowline, has many (5?) different variations. Some are better tied into the end of the rope and some are better in the middle (span) of the rope. The bowline and figure eight have variations for both needs. I leave off the 'Figure Eight on a Bight' for a reason. This is one of my favorite knots, cool to tie and it looks good lying along the rope when it is tied. But after it is loaded it can be a real bear to untie. So it gets an honorable mention, but that's it.
Bowline Bowline on a Bight* Honorable mention, the bowline on a bight is a great way to make a hande in order to drag something, like a heavy log, or to make shoulder straps for pulling an injured person on a sled. It doubles the area of contact at the loop causing less hand pain and more purchase. Alpine Butterfly (Linesman's Loop)
Bends: For joining two ropes, or the ends of one to form a loop.
Adjustable knots: like the Drivers' (Trucker's) Hitch and the Midshipmans' Hitch are worth their weight in gold.
Trucker's/Driver's Hitch This hitch has many names, but this is the only way to tie it properly. You can also double wrap the bitter end to get a better mechanical advantage. Once wrapped three times or so the rope will generally grab and hold itself while you finish the half hitches, very handy. Midshipman's Hitch (Taught Line) This hitch also goes by many names, tent-line, tight-line and adjustable hitch ar just a few. It is actually a rolling hitch variant. The same hitch tied to a spar is a Rolling Hitch. Adding wraps under the half hitch will help it grab slick rope better, adding wraps above the half hitch will help it grap slick spars better. Prusik Hitch* Honorable mention: Technically a slide and grip hitch, but it has many uses around camp.
Exploding Hitches: I use the Mooring Hitch and the Highwayman all the time. Very quick and easy to tie and untie. While I have used the Exploding Clove Hitch to suspend my hammock, I don't recommend it. The Mooring Hitch can be used to suspend a hammock as it is a sliding (adjustable), locking hitch that is easy to untie (exploding). The Exploding Clove Hitch is less reliable, but good when you need a quick grab on a line that will have steady tension on it. The Highwayman Hitch is great for hanging stuff from the ridgeline, like stuff sacks, or anything else you can add a short piece of cord to.
The Slipped Buntline Hitch is the best way to attach guylines to a tarp that I have found. Once you learn to tie it the easy way you will find yourself using it in all kinds of places!
Clove Hitch* Excellent for holding the tarp side up when used in conjunction with a trekking pole or stick. Easy to adjust up or down as well, just pull a little slack and slide the whole thing. I have also used it to pitch my hammock with just the trekking poles although I used extra guy outs to stabilize the poles.
Zeppelin Bend A good bend, but make sure to tie it correctly! I like the Sheetbend/Double Sheetbend for the easier tie up; but the Zeppelin get the nod if heavy loads are involved.
Klemheist Hitch A great slip and grip hitch but, it only grips in one direction; for this reason I like the Prusik, which grips in both directions, better.
How to pronounce 'bitter' and 'bight'; it is bitter as in 'it tastes bitter' not as in bite like a 'dog bite'. However, a 'bight' in a rope is pronounced like 'bite'.
The 'standing part' or 'standing end' is the load bearing end or section of the rope.
The 'bitter end' is the free end.
a 'bight' is piece of the standing or bitter end that is doubled.
A loop is a bight that has been crossed over (overhand loop) or under (underhand loop) to form a loop.
All knots employ the various terms above during tie up.
Another thing is to make sure you 'dress' the knot. That is to make all the various loops and pieces straight, neat and tight, also called setting the knot. A pretty knot is a strong knot!
I once talked to a guy about using the gizzies on ropes and his thot was that it is better to use something like the figure 9 or double buckle because it has a higher breaking strength than a knot. This is a misconception because ANY turn, bend or loop in a rope, whether in a knot or on a friction device causes the same weakening. The loss of strength comes from the fibers being unequally burdened in the radius of the turn. IOW, fewer of the fibers are taking the load and this happens when you tie a knot or you a friction/clamp device that uses ANY bend,turn or pinch point in the rope.
Also, if you have two knots in a rope the weaker knot is the rating to use. For instance: knot A has a retention of 75% of breaking strength, knot B has a retention of 50% of breaking strength. The new load rating is 50% of the breaking strength, not 75%. However, tying multiple knot b's into the rope just lowers it by 50%. Let's say we have three knot b's in a rope, the rope has a SWL of 100 lbs, the new SWL is 50 lbs, not 12.5 lbs. Either way it's 50%, no matter how many you have tied in the rope.
Bowline and Sheetbend not the same knot; here's why...
04-01-2013, 16:01
Knotty
Good stuff Rat. My one addition would be the Zeppelin Bend because of it's security and ease of untying even after heavy loading.
An excellent selection, with links to the wonderful animated knots by Grog! Thanks! That knot page deserves to be in everyone's "favorites" file.
One niggle: the Double Overhand and the Ashley Stopper (Oysterman's) Knot are two entirely different animals.
Take it easy,
desmobob
04-01-2013, 16:59
Rat
Quote:
Originally Posted by desmobob
An excellent selection, with links to the wonderful animated knots by Grog! Thanks! That knot page deserves to be in everyone's "favorites" file.
One niggle: the Double Overhand and the Ashley Stopper (Oysterman's) Knot are two entirely different animals.
Take it easy,
desmobob
7hanks for that desmobob, I have fixed it. My Copy>Paste Fu is weak today...
04-01-2013, 17:06
K0m4
Nice compilation, thanks! And I can say that since I use most of them myself ;) but I learned a couple of new ones that I'll try to bring with me.
I prefer the klemheist over the prussik though - find it both easier to tie and holds a grip better in the given direction of pull. Probably the knot I use the most after the taught line hitch when camping.
04-01-2013, 17:23
Rat
I will, for as long as I am able, edit the article with these suggestions from everyone. I have added the Zeppelin Bend and the Klemheist Hitch to the honorable mentions category and my reason why I like something else better. I will do this until my editing privileges expire.
And thanks for the additions.
04-01-2013, 18:57
Loki
Thanks Rat! Good info and well organized for us newbies.
04-02-2013, 10:39
fly fisher
Rat,
Thanks for the excellent post!
fly fisher
04-02-2013, 10:58
MDSH
Thank you, Rat!
.
04-03-2013, 18:13
Rat
I found the old video I was looking for concerning the Sheetbend and the Bowline. However, it is pretty long with other knot information on it; so I shot a new one just to show the comparison between the two. Plus, my new camera is HD! :cool:
Not sure how I left the slipped buntline hitch off of the original post but I will add it post haste. This is the best hitch I have found for tying a guyline to a tarp; it never spills and making it slipped means it is easy to untie.
04-03-2013, 18:19
Rat
Here is the Bowline Vs. Sheetbend Video.
I don't have a good animation or video for the slipped buntline so I will post one of those as well.
04-03-2013, 18:45
oldgringo
Win. :).............
04-04-2013, 14:59
wideguy
Actually Rat, I hate to be contrarian but there is a small flaw in your arguement. In your initial video you start with your bowline tied improperly. The Tail should end inside the loop. It actually does affect the ssecurity of the knot and in fact when left outside it actually allows the bowline to invert as you warn. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ng/Bowline.png
You can see this in the photo from grog ( but you'd find the same in Ashley or any other source)
Then if you imagine cutting your bowline as shown ( Please excuse the crude photoshop) You'll see that the structure of the Sheet Bend and Bowline, forward and backward, up and down, frontside and backside, is identical.
Truly the only difference is one is tied in a single piece of line to form a loop, the the is tied to join two pieces together, especially of different diameter. You can tie a bowline just as you do in your demonstration of the sheetbend, making a bight first and then looping around the other end except when tying a bowline you are usually working with only one end and the standing end is fixed or unreasonably long, but if both ends are free you could follow the exact same mechanics
04-04-2013, 16:10
Rat
That is a very good illustration; but it shows two ropes joined at the end.:D
The Bowline I tie is the left handed variant, also known as the Horse Knot; presumably tied this way to keep the tag end from rubbing against the horses neck. However, I also know that several countries naval service teaches this variant as it is considered, by them, to be superior. I can't speak to the superiority but it is easier to tie up the sailors way, for me, with the tag on the outside; and if Denmark thinks it's good enough then I will use it this way. It's not wrong, just a variant and a recognized variant at that (ABOK # 1034 1/2). I have neither see nor heard it reported that a Left Handed Bowline capsized or inverted as I show the Sheetbend doing. If you have a source for this I would very much like to read it.
My point is this: If you tie up a loop in the end of a rope using a bight and the Sheetbend Join you create a slip loop that could cause very serious damage. The Bowline will not create a slip loop in this manner.
I guess, if you tie a Bowline and then cut the loop you have a Sheetbend Join; but you can not tie a sheetbend to form a loop at the end of a rope with out the loop being able to slip closed.
The Bowline will not form a slip loop; that is why it is the preferred rescue knot. It may spill if not backed up and the loop will come apart, but it will not cinch closed.
The Bowline has a standing end and a bitter end
The Sheetbend has two standing ends and two bitter ends
The Bowline has three load bearing ends
The Sheetbend has two load bearing ends
Cutting the loop of a Bowline to create a Sheetbend does not mean they are the same; if that were true then a Reef Knot would be the same as a Cow Hitch as the Cow Hitch is just half of a capsized Reef Knot!
They are not the same knot.
This is what got me started on this years ago and why I teach it now; telling people that the Sheetbend and Bowline are the same may cause serious harm. When someone believes this, and they use the Sheetbend to form a loop instead of the Bowline, and end up getting hurt, it will not be because I gave them bad information.
Believe what you like, but for your sake, please don't use, or teach, people to tie a loop in the end of a rope with a Sheetbend; it's the worst kind of dangerous, the unexpected kind.
04-04-2013, 16:18
MAD777
Essential Outdoor Knots, according to Rat!
Thanks for posting this knot thread, Rat. I love all the Ditch bling and the like, but we should know our knots, too.
It's the same thing as knowing how to use a map & compass even though we have a GPS, or knowing how to start a wood fire even though we have a canister stove.
04-04-2013, 16:59
wideguy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat
That is a very good illustration; but it shows two ropes joined at the end.:D
It shows a Bowline straight from Grog's page with a small section photo shopped out for demonstration purposes. If you imagine the lower loop stretched out ( and in a different diameter) It is a sheetbend.
As I said, you could never practically tie a bowline using the same movements and mechanics as the sheet bend because normally if you're tying a bowling the standing end is fixed already or is 100' long and ( And who wants to feed all that through a knot?)
When I teach I teach a bowline as a knot used to put a non-constricting fixed loop in a single piece of rope. And I always teach it with a backup. ( or more commonly I teach a figure 8 because it maintains more strength and doesn't need a backup, although it will be a bear to untie when weighted. but if I'm teaching a rescue scenario, I'm much more concerned with the right now. I'll cut the rope later. )
When I teach a Sheet bend I teach it as a superior method of joining two ropes together , over the Square knot, especially in slippery ropes, small diameter cordage and ropes of different diameters.
But the fact remains if you tie both properly and cut free all four ends to leave just a lump with four fuzzy ends, the actual knot that will be left behind is identical.
04-04-2013, 17:33
Rat
Quote:
Originally Posted by wideguy
But the fact remains if you tie both properly and cut free all four ends to leave just a lump with four fuzzy ends, the actual knot that will be left behind is identical.
If you cut the loop, it is no longer a Bowline; a Bowline is a loop knot!
But, if you say they are the same, tie a loop in the end of a rope using a Sheetbend and load it like you would a Bowline and see if it fails; on video.
Prove me wrong that you can use a Sheetbend instead of a Bowline to form a loop in the end, or mid-span for that matter, of a rope without it failing.
Basic knot work is knowing which knot for which work and a Sheetbend cannot replace a Bowline...
04-04-2013, 19:36
mrmike65
An excellent resource! Thanks for sharing!
04-06-2013, 12:47
Faussett
I thought this was a great thread. A good break down of the types of knots and when to use them.
04-06-2013, 16:39
Brady
Great thread. Thanks for the info.
04-06-2013, 17:22
titanium_hiker
two more "knots" that get mentioned around here a lot:
Marlin spike hitch and larkshead knot.
TH
04-07-2013, 02:22
K0m4
When commenting first time, I forgot to point out the most important knot of all (well, to me at least): it seems in English it's called the jar sling or jug sling (in Swedish it's known as "the English sack knot").
Why so important? When in the Navy, I lerned this knot, and the officer who taught us how to tie it pointed out with not a little enthusiasm that you can carry up to thirteen bottles of beer with it - one in each little loop that is formed! Something I have verified by rather extensive empirical studies myself...
Ok, I know that that may be less than essential for most campers, but it is actually also a good knot for its intended purpose: to close up a sack, or around anything you need to carry, as it constricts well and holds, and the end loop is a perfect handle. So you can drag a log with it for example, for firewood. A little difficult to get right perhaps, but if you need to carry beer, you need to carry beer! :shades:
04-09-2013, 10:14
wideguy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat
But, if you say they are the same, tie a loop in the end of a rope using a Sheetbend and load it like you would a Bowline and see if it fails; on video.
Prove me wrong that you can use a Sheetbend instead of a Bowline to form a loop in the end, or mid-span for that matter, of a rope without it failing.
Basic knot work is knowing which knot for which work and a Sheetbend cannot replace a Bowline...
I stand corrected, although I lack the requisite technological skills to display. Rat is absolutely right.
I had failed to look at a situation from both sides. While you can use the same method of tying a bowline to tie a sheet bend ( i.e make a hole, rabbit out of the hole around the tree etc,) it imperative that you make sure that both bitter ends end up on the same side of your sheet bend. (Which works for me because I don't tie Lefthanded or "Cowboy" bowlines as a matter of course like Rat does.)
However you can NOT tie a Bowline the same way as a sheet bend. As Rat correctly stated it would result in the only available working strand forcing you to cross load the knot in a way that is not safe.
So although the structure of the knot is very similar, especially in their release point when loaded tightly, they are not the same knot.
My name is Chad and I am not Smarter than The Rat
04-09-2013, 10:23
Rat
Quote:
Originally Posted by K0m4
When commenting first time, I forgot to point out the most important knot of all (well, to me at least): it seems in English it's called the jar sling or jug sling (in Swedish it's known as "the English sack knot").
Why so important? When in the Navy, I lerned this knot, and the officer who taught us how to tie it pointed out with not a little enthusiasm that you can carry up to thirteen bottles of beer with it - one in each little loop that is formed! Something I have verified by rather extensive empirical studies myself...
Ok, I know that that may be less than essential for most campers, but it is actually also a good knot for its intended purpose: to close up a sack, or around anything you need to carry, as it constricts well and holds, and the end loop is a perfect handle. So you can drag a log with it for example, for firewood. A little difficult to get right perhaps, but if you need to carry beer, you need to carry beer! :shades:
This is also a very good knot to know by those who reuse plastic water bottles. This knot can be tied around the neck below the cap flange for a secure hold; no need for a bottle holder, very light and can be made from common, easy to find materials.
04-09-2013, 10:35
Rat
Quote:
Originally Posted by wideguy
...you can NOT tie a Bowline the same way as a sheet bend. As Rat correctly stated it would result in the only available working strand forcing you to cross load the knot in a way that is not safe.
So although the structure of the knot is very similar, especially in their release point when loaded tightly, they are not the same knot.
My name is Chad and I am not Smarter than The Rat
That may be taking it a little far, I might have known more about this topic; but now we are even again! :D And that is the stated goal of these articles; to pass along information so others can learn. A good, honest, open, friendly debate usually furthers that agenda; just one of the many reasons I like Hammock Forums. Most other forums this would have turned ugly and personal long ago!
Carry on Knot Heads!
04-09-2013, 11:14
JosephCurwen
here are the knots that i use most of the time
- the Angler's loop ABOK #1017
- the blood knot to join two ropes ABOK #1413
- the blake hitch
- the constrictor knot ABOK #1249
- the diamond knot ABOK #784
and as K0m4, the "jar sling knot" ABOK #1142 :)
04-09-2013, 11:48
alpineLounger
I'm a fan of the unmentioned Carrick Bend, we use it constantly on the crab boat. Very easy to add length and it's very easy to break (UNTIE). I'm liking this thread!
04-14-2013, 21:20
laziboie
That is some great info, thanks! I believe I might get a cheat sheet together and laminate it to take with me on trips so I don't forget something that could otherwise save a lot of time. I've got a good knowledge of knots...but am learning always! Thanks again!
04-14-2013, 22:52
mbiraman
Learned about the canadian jam knot about a year ago. Been using it off and on for compression and also for lashing stands , lean-to etc. Might be one for everyone to consider.
bill
04-17-2013, 07:33
AaronAlso
Farrimond Friction Hitch - simply a briliant knot, look it up.
04-17-2013, 08:10
hecta_g
Very good thread! I've a similar thread with the sheet bend and bowline comparison and glad to see I was in line with The Rat.
As a scout leader I must know my knots and enjoy learning from others.
Thanks The Rat!
Oh, and as for the App, the Grog app is the only app to date that I have purchased and always refer to.
04-21-2013, 17:53
Airmech27
Knots
Great knots, thanks!
06-10-2013, 15:31
Chrctr_Zero
Double Duty for the Alpine Butterfly
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knotty
Good stuff Rat. My one addition would be the Zeppelin Bend because of it's security and ease of untying even after heavy loading.
The zeppelin bend has similar reliability as the alpine butterfly bend. If you can tie an alpine butterfly loop, you can also tie it as a bend, and then you have one less knot to remember... :)
08-15-2013, 21:37
Hashiba
*snip*
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat
Trucker's/Driver's Hitch This hitch has many names, but this is the only way to tie it properly. You can also double wrap the bitter end to get a better mechanical advantage. Once wrapped three times or so the rope will generally grab and hold itself while you finish the half hitches, very handy.
Is there any reason that this is true when there are many variants of this knot?
I never knew I was using a directional figure 8 but this was how I tied this knot until I became sick of how difficult it could sometimes be to untie on thicker ropes that had been rain-soaked.
I was shown to use a simple overhand loop in the standing line, which pops out fairly easily with a tug most of the time. I have used this variation to secure canoes to roof-racks, rig tarp ridgelines, clotheslines, and to secure loads in truck-beds for years and it has never revealed itself to be flawed in security. I still find the overhand loop can be difficult to pull out when the line is wet and sprayed with dirt/sand or when working with large diameter rope.
Is it simply that the directional figure 8 is a superior knot that gives the least loss of rope strength? Most rope I've used has been greatly over-rated for the task at hand so maybe the figure 8 simply isn't necessary for a lot of what we do with this knot. I'd like to know if I'm on the right track here.
Since I'm still rambling on, I very recently picked up a new variation of this knot called the "truckie hitch" that employs what appears to be a bellringer's knot in the standing line to form the loop that the bitter end is passed through. Nothing I've ever tied and loaded comes apart so easily once the load is removed.
Here is a video of the truckie hitch that I'm sure is worth more than 1000 words if you are curious about it: Trucker's Hitch versus Truckie Hitch
I'm pretty new to knots in general but I've been putting a lot of effort into learning as much as possible over the past year or two. Thank you so much for putting together this thread and taking the time to pass on what I think is just about the most undervalued skill-set today. I'm so sick of showing people a basic hitch and having them reply, "Well I just tie overhand knots until it sticks. When I want the rope off I just cut it."
08-20-2013, 15:34
Rat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hashiba
*snip*
Is there any reason that this is true when there are many variants of this knot?
Only because this is how it is described in ABoK and so named. Variants are just that, variations of this knot as described by ABoK as we are using ABoK as the source.
In fact, I use a variant similar to the slipknot variant that is both easy to tie and untie. The ABoK is the most secure though.
I would not use a half a sheepshank like the truckie hitch uses; the sheepshank will spill very easily, especially in modern synthetic ropes. Pull hard enough and you can collapse the sheepshank; if the load lightens enough the sheepshank will spill as well. I would not trust it...
08-20-2013, 15:55
jbrescue
Either I missed something or, the Tautline hitch was excluded. This is an essential knot for the outdoors and a required one for Scouts.
As a technical rescue guy, I can say this, the more you can do without hardware, the better you will be. Too many people get reliant on carabiners and straps. You can do almost anything with rope and good knot skills.
08-20-2013, 16:52
packeagle
Re: Essential Outdoor Knots, according to Rat!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrescue
Either I missed something or, the Tautline hitch was excluded. This is an essential knot for the outdoors and a required one for Scouts.
As a technical rescue guy, I can say this, the more you can do without hardware, the better you will be. Too many people get reliant on carabiners and straps. You can do almost anything with rope and good knot skills.
I never heard it called that before. Good to know.
08-21-2013, 22:38
snellvillehammock
Need to go practice tying knots
08-29-2013, 20:32
Hashiba
Awesome Rat, thanks for the reply.
I recently tied a ridgeline with the "truckie hitch" in some 3mm cord and mightily as I pulled, it did not spill. I tred this again with some higher quality "techline" with a 1.9 mm diameter, and she spilled instantly. I think I'll go back to a slipping loop again.
I have to invest in a copy of ABOK soon. I love knots.
08-29-2013, 21:28
wwk10
Great post. Thanks.
08-30-2013, 17:54
db144
Farrimond hitch, Butterfly Loop, and Figure 8 knot.
08-30-2013, 20:13
Bubba
Quote:
Originally Posted by db144
Farrimond hitch...
Thanks for pointing this one out. I like learning all kinds and I like the looks of this one.
08-31-2013, 14:12
SimonMc
Thanks for posting Rat. My knot tying repertoire has just exploded :).
08-31-2013, 17:24
Gazelle
Essential Outdoor Knots, according to Rat!
Loved the DirtTime video...truckers vs. truckie. Thanks for the information.
09-11-2013, 20:56
FrActOwL
This is a great resource, thanks for posting!
10-07-2013, 12:58
nomoore
Quote:
Originally Posted by titanium_hiker
two more "knots" that get mentioned around here a lot:
Marlin spike hitch and larkshead knot.
TH
I can't believe those aren't mentioned in the OP! The larkshead is an obvious inclusion as a hammocker (at least give it honorable mention). And I use the Marlin Spike Hitch every time I go camping.
The Marlin Spike Hitch is so simple to tie I can do it in less than 5 seconds, dressed and all. I will never use anything else to stake out a guy line. And when you are ready to go, just pull out the stake/toggle and it literally falls apart. Forget those little junky plastic tensioners that come on tent guylines. I can't count the number of times I've had a guyline with plastic tensioner slip off a lightweight tent stake. The standard issue wire tent stake will spin around and lose that loop so quick. And the expensive aluminum or titanium Y stakes have only a little ridge to hold on to. Both are worthless with tensioners. But with the Marlin Spike Hitch the cheapy stake is workable and the Y stake is superb!
Plus, a Marlin Spike Hitch can be used to make a handle quick and easy. Find anything long and slender as the toggle and you have an instant handle for your rope. Or find a spare finger sized twig as a toggle and you can hang any loop of rope off the knot (not the toggle, unless you know it is strong enough)
Obviously I love the Marlin Spike Hitch. And if your lady loves crochet then it is almost identical to the slip knot she undoubtedly uses to start a chain. The only difference is how it is dressed. So it should be easy to teach her too. :D
10-07-2013, 22:00
ClayTurner
I showed a fellow hanger how to set up tarp guylines using the double fisherman to create a loop and turning the loop onto a prussik. It was very rewarding. Thanks for showing me some cool stuff to expand my knowledge.
10-07-2013, 22:17
Pretbek
Essential Outdoor Knots, according to Rat!
At the risk of repeating someone, 'cuz I dunno how to do a thread search on my phone...
Yosemite bowline!
I love the bowline (step 1, 2 in image below) to make a quick loop at the end of a line, but with slippery zing-it it need more security.
That is where the Yosemite finish (step 3, 4) comes in.