The Metro Bridge, 3rd DIY hammock

Fabric head width: 46
Head Triangle Length: 25
Head Bar: 32 1/4

Fabric foot Width: 35:1/4
Foot triangle length: 20 1/2
Foot Bar: 23 14

Hammock length: 80
Suspension curve depth: 6in
width: 30in

I like to name things. Each bridge hammock i've made has had a name. After each one has been made and hung up for the first time I step back and allow inspiration to guide the naming processes. Upon gazing intensely into the being of this hammock I was struck that this hammock doesn't belong in the woods but rather in some swanky boutique in a downtown with other extravagant things like the guy posted below. Yikes! All joking aside, after a few issues were taken care of this is a very comfortable hammock. I will eventually add a ridge line so I can make sure I get the exact same setup each time.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7034/6...eae1f39294.jpg
beyond-metrosexual by pappy2012, on Flickr

I've named this hammock the metro bridge because the top layer is a chocolate poly satin and the bottom layer is a brushed steel taffeta. Here in Portland, Oregon we have a ma and pa store called Fabric Depot and they have a discounted section and I paid 3 dollars a yard for the stuff.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6...638136c46f.jpg
IMG_3568 by pappy2012, on Flickr
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6...ed3327c9f7.jpg
IMG_3562 by pappy2012, on Flickr

The previous to bridges I used rope for the suspension curve, bamboo and endcaps. This time I wanted to use something more like tent poles and found some used ski poles at a local thrift store. the nice part was for the pair it was only 5 bucks and no shipping fees. I also used 1/2 tubular webbing for curves. Each side of the suspension triangle is a different rope. I connected them to a whoopie sling with a soft shackle. This hammock was much simpler and easy to sew than my previous two.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6...a606a3ffb2.jpg
IMG_3560 by pappy2012, on Flickr

I borrowed my friends dremel and cut down into the tubes in order to places to keep them between the ropes. At first I made the cuts to short and I felt uneasy about the rope jumping out. I cut them deeper and I feel mostly alright but not completely.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7003/6...355ff18319.jpg
IMG_3566 by pappy2012, on Flickr

I'm still playing around with an idea for a special piece for the ends of the bars to fit into that I would feel more secure with. It would be two pieces of amsteel. The center of the two lines are spliced together for about an inch then the two ends on opposite sides are brought together in a locked brummel. It would look kinda like a circle with a line going down the center. the bar would rest in the center and the two sides of the circle would connect the hammock to the suspension triangle. I'm not sure it is necessary but once I get around to making four I'll give it try and see if it makes a difference. I made one but after making it came up with a better design and have yet to make it.

I'm getting tired of trying to line up the two layers as I sew up the curve but I really like having two layers to put a pad in. So when I make another bridge hammock I think I'll sew a one layer bridge and then sew on the second layer to the body somewhere that makes the most sense. From pictures I think thats what the JRB bridge has.

One last shot.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/6...71440dba70.jpg
IMG_3567 by pappy2012, on Flickr

Best. Mustache. Ever. Oh, great looking bridge too.

Can't wait to test it!

Looking good! As for the double layer, you could do as JRB does with their bridge. They make the second layer just big enough for a pad. So basically a pad pocket as opposed to what I guess you would call a true double layer. This saves weight and helps keep the pad in place.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TwoShoes

Looking good! As for the double layer, you could do as JRB does with their bridge. They make the second layer just big enough for a pad. So basically a pad pocket as opposed to what I guess you would call a true double layer. This saves weight and helps keep the pad in place.

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I noticed that on their bridge as well. I have been throwing around ideas in my head and one thing I've noticed when its cold outside is if my shoulders or back are leaning against the sides, which they do, then I get cold spots. This even happens with my down sleeping bag as TQ because I've compressed the down. I was thinking about having the second layer come all the way up to the the middle of the curve so I could add some extra padding.

If you have any suggestions otherwise I will gladly heed your advice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paprika bohlmann

I've noticed when its cold outside is if my shoulders or back are leaning against the sides, which they do, then I get cold spots.

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Valid point. I've had the same thing happen with my shoulders. Not often as I don't normally move much in my sleep. Hopefully two layers will work for you if not maybe you can extend the pad at the shoulders. Again great looking bridge! Working out plans for my next one. :cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TwoShoes

two layers will work for you if not maybe you can extend the pad at the shoulders. Again great looking bridge! Working out plans for my next one. :cool:

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Right now I'm using a closed cell pad with one side that has space blanket material. It was around high 30's low 40's and i was toasty warm with my down sleeping bag over me. I should go buy another one just to cut up to fill in the space. Its the best 8 dollars I've ever spent on insulation.

You should post pictures of your bridge. I always like seeing how other guys make their rigs.