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Hey y'all!
I'm having trouble making the locked brummel with the 1.75mm Dyneema. My problem is getting a splicing tool small enough to pull the bury in the final step.
The last thing I tried was a used guitar E-string, but even then the problem is that the double-up end was too fat to pull through.
Should I be using a fid instead?
Has anyone had success with a splicing wire? If so, what should I be doing to make that fat end pull through into the bury?
Thanks in advance!
Find a piece of Cat5 network wiring (or perhaps telephone wiring). Cut the sleeve off and pull out one of the individual strands and double it over. I've found that's small enough to splice Zing-It with.
In the UK I've used fuse wire (13amp), you could try that, if of course your home electrics use fuse wire, only antique systems use it over here, but we can still get the wire. Other than that network cable works, as angrysparrow mentions.
I splice with a piece of .025" stainless wire, .020 would probably be better but .025 works well enough.
+1. That is about what I use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redoleary
To cure the doubled up end I split the strands about and inch or whatever need comoared to.the bury length and then cut off half of them to create a taper also. Less strands is less bulk. I use doubled over piece of wire and pinch the frayed edge in the wire and its less bulk and pulls rught through plus the taper is supposed to create less of a drastic change in the cord width which is said to cause weak points in the system.
Cat 5 wire is good. Exaggerate the taper - make it longer than you think necessary (at least 2") and pull out 8 strands in 4 pairs so when you double the end through the loop in the wire the overall thickness is 12 strands or less. If you spaced the pairs you pulled out at 2" then 1.5" then 1" then .5", you'll fold back .75" of the end to go through the loop.
That's awesome, thanks! I'll get on that tonight!
Believe it or not, I think I remember Opie posting that he uses no taper at all when work with the smaller stuff...
GOD BLESS HIM!
I don't use a taper just really thin wire when splicing 1.75mm.
I just do the one step to make.it easier.
I use the Cat5 wire and don't taper usually. However, I have tried the taper and it definitely makes things a whole lot easier.
Hey SnoMan,
I did a Locked Brummel on 1.75 mm Zing-it.
I put a Dutch Hook on the line. I did taper the line and I used a an old "High E" electric guitar string. That is the smallest guitar string. I pulled the guitar string back through the Zing-it with the guitar string end wrapped around a pair of pliers. It was fairly easy. I was surprised. For reference that is a Canadian Dime (same size as a U.S. Dime) next to the Zing-it.
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/p...ictureid=13958
Blue Nose for a Blue Fin? Nice work with the splice.
Dan.
I never thought of that,Quote:
Originally Posted by dant8ro
Thanks.
We use .022" diameter stainless steel fishing leader wire all the time on 1.76mm Zing It/Lash It. We fold a length in half and crimp the fold tight enough to hold the line. Works well.
Hey that CAT 5 worked like a charm, and the high E too, once I tapered the end of the line. I think the taper was my problem -- now it buries right easy.
Ya that's a very neat job, Bluefin. I had tried it earlier with an E string but I broke it pulling the bury. Now I have it tapered, work it gently through, and it works fine. Thanks for prompting me to try it again.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by BLUEFIN 774
The E string works great. I have used it to redo all my tie-out in mason line. I also use it on 7/64 amsteel as it is very strong. Fold it in half (mine is about 14") and epoxy a bead or something to grip on the end.
:eek:
Open the line the maximum before trying push or pull the bury.
It takes just 30 seconds more, and knitting needles for the task cost <$1@.
What is the largest needle that can be passed through 1.75 Zing-It, #9, 5mm?
Let's not confuse the locked Brummel with the bury splice. However you accomplish it, the locked Brummel is the passing of the cord through itself. The bury splice is where the strength comes from.
Questions and answers here were all about burying.
OK, *that's* good to know. So is the bury just a special case of the locked Brummel?Quote:
Originally Posted by DemostiX
I use 22 gauge solid picture frame hanging wire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoMan
No, a bury is one way of holding a loop in the end of a rope. The locked brummel is a supplementary way of keeping that bury from coming loose when there isn't tension on the rope to make it constrict and thus hold the buried portion.Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoMan
No, it is not. The Brummel is weaving, the passing of the rope through itself, in one side and out the opposite side. The locked Brummel is passing it through itself twice in such way that it forms a self-locking eye.Quote:
Originally Posted by SnoMan
The bury is something else again. It is the enclosure of a length of the rope inside another rope or inside a length of itself
You can Brummel without locking. You can bury without Brummeling because the strength of the splice is just as great as if you had not Brummeled.
And, if you Brummel repeatedly -- there's an old rule of 5 -- you will have completed a splice which is full strength with non-synthetic ropes. There will still be the issue of what to do with the end to be sure it doesn't hang up and contribute to the splice coming apart under no-load conditions. Burying the end is one solution to solve that failure mode, but tapering and whipping is another.
If you were in the field and wished to create an eye-splice in hollow-braid cord, you can do this with a Shoemaker's splice, which is. With a pick on your pocket knife you can poke and open temporary holes between the strands to accomplish this. I would estimate that a weave with a dozen Brummels would offer the strength of eight Brummels and two short buries. The openings should be 4 braids -- about 3/4" --apart for Amsteel-based line in sizes we are using.
- a repeated Brummel, weaving the cord repeatedly through itself
followed by a shorter bury,
and then a repetition of that.
-------------
I repeat that while I infer that most people are pulling the bury with a thin folded wire, they don't say so, and it would be helpful to those who are learning to splice to know for sure if pulling is the approach being used. It is just as plausible to push the bury through the sleeve, whether you stiffen the end of it with tape, attach it to a fid, or you give it a stiff spine by inserting a wire and pushing that through, the same way you put your arm through a sleeve and leg through pants.
Just thought I'd add this: http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/korda-7c...g-line-p114919
Used this and the 12cm version when splicing 1.75 zing-it for locked Brummell, continuous loops and a whoopie for a srl. The zing-it just about fits in the end of the needle.
I saw a bigger one in a video on here but I've no idea where to find it in the UK.
You can go to the dollar store or craft store and pickup some 26 gauge craft wire and a keychain ring. Ive done 20 so far on the same piece of wire. It could be a good piece in a survival kit as well.
I use a sewing tool called a loop turner, basically a very small gated hook (Purchased at Jo-Ann fabrics for less than $5) to pull the free end. I also found a pack of 4 very small knitting needles (again less than $5) to open the core of the rope.
I use the same tools for Amsteel 1/4, 7/64 and Zing-it.
Good Luck
I exclusively use floral wire, which is pretty much the same (or exactly the same) as craft wire. Cheap, relatively easy to find and works well for zing-it and amsteel (as long as I taper 2 or 3 threads in the zing-it).Quote:
Originally Posted by damuffin
I have tried a lot of different things for splicing 1.75 the best and cheapest I have found is .35 mig welding wire doubled over. Works great
1.75 isn't fun (for me) to work with but I've started using steel leader wire from the fishing dept. It's stiffer than the 24-ga irrigation wire I was using so it holds up better. Floral wire is a dream with 2.2mm and 7/64+ amsteel.
Absolutely! I use the same thing. I splice everything with it. I've even made small whoopies out of braided mason line with it. I work in a body shop and thats where I got mine. If you live near one, stop in and ask if they will run you off a couple feet from their mig welder. Offer a few bucks, but they will probably just give it to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by yessirre