My new Bridge Hammock hanging system
I have submitted the following as part 8 of my Bridge Hammock system Article. I am posting here so that you can read it now. I submitted as a new part of the article so that people will be able to find it easily in the future if they are interested in it.
Recently in hanging the Bridge Hammock, I was looking at the suspension ring at the apex of the suspension triangle and wondering why should the suspension triangle be permanently tied to the ring. What would happen if it wasn't. Then I remembered past experiments with using a tree to tree line and hanging a hammock from the line with Prussic loops. The Prussic knots didn't work well unless the tree to tree line was at least 0.25" diameter and preferably 0.5" diameter in order for the Prussic loops to work well.
Then it occurred to me to replace the Prussic knots with the suspension ring and I had the same thing. The rings don't slide on the tree to tree line like the Prussic knots did, but they hold a lot better. The Prussic knots had the advantage that I could slide them to center the hang.
A big advantage of the tree to tree line was the fact that I could hang the line and then hang the hammock from the line. That simplified things considerably.
Well I would still have that advantage with the rings, I would just have to shift the line to center the rings.
So I immediately untied the suspension triangles from the suspension rings. I then hung the line, tree to tree and centered the rings. Then I simply passed the suspension triangle line through the suspension ring now hung on the line and used a larks head to secure the suspension triangle line to a stake. Repeated on the other end of the Bridge Hammock.
Bridge Hammock hung.
This simplifies the process of hanging the hammock considerably. Instead of hassling with the hammock, the tree huggers (or webbing), getting everything hung from the trees and then centering everything and then tightening, I now just hang the line and center. Less weight to hassle which makes the hanging and centering process much easier and less hassle. Then hanging from the line using the rings and larks heads is extremely simple and easy.
So I have now modified the hanging, take down and storage process accordingly.
I have 2 sections of the 2.8 mm Spyderline suspension line tied to 3/4" ID Stainless steel rings with the Crystalyne ridge line in the middle, i.e., from left to right I have 15' Spyderline, SS ring, ridge line, SS ring, 15' Spyderline.
Hang the Spyderline and ridge line tree to tree.
Grasp the suspension triangle line at one end of the Bridge Hammock, find the middle and thread the middle through one of the rings on the tree to tree line. Double the loop back on itself and pass a stake through the loop formed, making a lark's head knot on the stake. Make sure that the corners of the hammock are even and tighten the lark's head knot on the stake and let the stake fall back on the ring. That end of the hammock is now hung.
Repeat on the other end of the Hammock.
I can use various methods of attaching the suspension triangle to the ring:
So I have several options for securing the suspension triangle to the suspension ring. The heaviest option is the Titanium nail, but I carry those anyway. If you don't and don't care to spend the money to buy them, then the nickel plated steel rings are a good option and very light. Available from McMaster-Carr in boxes of 10. The lightest option of all is the last, actually zero carry weight - scrounge a wooden toggle from the ground. This is the riskiest option: you may not be able to find suitable wood for toggles, and the wood you do find may have hidden defects leading to failure.
So here is the Bridge Hammock hung with the new method and using a wood toggle:
I have used all three of the options and will in the future. All three work very well.
Since the ridge line and suspension triangle lines are now stored separately, the problem of line tangling has been eliminated. Thus, the two section snake skins I used before are no longer necessary. Also, the curly laces are no longer necessary either.
I have switched to a single "snake skin". It really isn't a snake skin, but what you would get by mating a double ended stuff sack with a snake skin. A constant diameter tube with draw cords on both ends: a "double ended stuff skin". Instead of 2 skins as for regular snake skins, only 1 stuff skin is used and for the Bridge Hammock it doesn't taper like a normal snake skin, but has a constant diameter. Very easy to make and use.
When taking the Bridge Hammock down, I simply remove the spreader bars/hiking poles, and drop the bug netting or overcover into the hammock. Then I pull the suspension line in the suspension ring to pull the hammock out more straight and use a half hitch to hold. Do the same on the other end. Then pull the single "stuff skin" the full length of the hammock leaving the triangle suspension llines exposed. Cinch the draw cords on both ends. Untie the suspension triangle from a ring, walk to the other end and untie that suspension triangle line from that ring. Hammock is down. Take down suspension and ridge lines and I'm done except for putting the hammock and line away.
Bridge Hammock in the single "stuff skin":
This image shows the end of the stuff skin with the draw cord securing the end:
This image illustrates how I pull the suspension triangle line and secure with a half hitch before pulling the skin to enclose:
This image shows the skin stored on the suspension triangle:
Note that with the new method of hanging and storage, using a Black Bishop bag is now the same as using the skin for hammock storage.
Either work equally well.
funny you should bring that up. About a month ago, with Dutch's help, I cooked up a way of doing the same thing, see this post.
I've really like being able to clip and unclip the hammock from the suspension. In fact I depend on that for sliding my hammock sock over the hammock easily.
But what is needed is a way that will do the same thing with a trip to Lowes. I was going to toy around with this the next chance I got, but you've gone and done it. good stuff.
Second reason for posting here
Actually there is another reason I posted here also.
It occurred to me that this method could be used to hang any top loading hammock, simplifying the hanging of any top loader.
All that would be needed for a top loader, would be a simple loop, say 6" to 9" long on each end of the hammock. Secure the loop to the suspension ring on the tree to tree line using a toggle and lark's head as above.
People were trying to use Prussic loops on line months back. The Prussics had the disadvantage of requiring large diameter rope which increased the weight considerably. By doubling the diameter of the rope, you get 4 times the weight.
The SS rings I suggest here are 0.4 oz each, so they add less than 1 oz to the weight.
What's that they say about great minds??
I just got back from a lot of quality time in the woods and will be heading back out for several more months very shortly.
TeeDee I'm digging this idea, help me understand the use of the second ring.
It seem like you have to unfasten the suspension triangle from the hammock to get it through the larger ring.
Great idea. I need to get a set up like this going for use with my top loader, which I am going to be spending more time in while I continue testing the PeaPod.
I wonder if a separate single tree to tree line approach would also be more convenient for hanging the tarp, and if that would be weight efficient?
Dutch - it's the same method I use for my ridge line. This series of images show how the two rings work together. The loose ring acts as a toggle, capturing the line and keeping it from slipping back through the first ring:
Think of the line coming up from the bottom as the ridge line. The suspension line would also be tied to the same ring and lead off the top of the images. You end up with the loose ring lark's headed to the suspension triangle line which would correspond to the doubled line coming down from the top.
When the rings are the same size or the toggle ring is the larger of the two, the toggle ring can withstand a large force.
I started doing this for 2 reasons:
So is it weight efficient. Not as efficient as carrying 2 10' sections of Spyderline, but with the 50' I have a big advantage in an emergency. The 2 10' sections will save you about 1.9 oz and cost you big time if you need that 50'.
Also, if you run across really big trees, the 2 10' sections may not be nearly enough. I've not had any trouble with that 50' not making around trees yet.
Bulk - the 50' is wrapped around the tarp in the skin. Adds 2.8 mm to the radius of the wrapped bundle. Not noticeable to me.
Is it easier to hang with the single 50' length than 2 10' sections of Spyderline. It is far easier for me. YMMV
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