i think doing it this way would be more expensive by far if you factored the treatment into the cost along with everything else.
Type: Posts; User: warbonnetguy
i think doing it this way would be more expensive by far if you factored the treatment into the cost along with everything else.
i don't know, the fabric i used was non-calendared without dwr
If the fabric isn't treated with dwr, it should be pretty absorbent. I'm betting a thin enough mix could be brushed on and still fully absorb. You'd might want to hit both sides, but I bet that would...
good point, with enough water weight, it will have enough pressure behind it.
i was speaking of the wash-in or spray-on treatments. they work well for giving a water resistent treatment to fabric, or restoring it to something that's worn off, it will make the water bead, but...
FWIW, anything is only waterproof to a certain amount of pressure, a small puddle of water in a depression is hardly putting any pressure on the fabric. my uncoated dwr would hold a small volume of...
sounds like an ok plan.
i'd consider wringing out any excess as soon as you pull it out of the bucket, pitch it or hang it and start wiping off the excess immediatly. after it dries you won't get...
i believe nikwax makes thing water resistent rather than waterproof
i think regular uncoated 1.1 would probably be ok in light rain
i think that stuff is too diluted and is more of a water resistence than a true waterproofing
great, that's how i was thinking to do it as well, make the tarp, set it up and then treat it. did you wipe off the excess after you sponged it on? did you weigh it before and after? glad it worked...
cool, if it comes through in a hard rain, that will tell you if you need a thicker mixture next time or perhaps another coat.
i say sew it, pitch it, then treat it while it's pitched. that stuff absorbs into the fabric pretty well just by wiping it on.
i had considered (but never tried) making the tarp, setting it up tight, and then spongeing it on both sides and them wiping it off, no soaking at all, if it is breathable to begin with, it should...
you didn't wipe off the excess with anything? i wiped mine as dry as possible with a cloth.
glad it turned out well, i think you are the first to make an actual piece of gear using this method.
i thought it made a nice fabric, it was different feeling than sil, but not in any bad way, looked a little different too, almost a little more translucent with the grey i used
when i did it, it was before anyone mentioned multiple coats possibly being better than one. i did 3 tiny pieces, picked the best lookng mix (just eyeballed it by thickness/runniness) and did a 1 sq...
yeah, just make sure to get all the excess off, it should just be damp when you are done, nothing left on the surface.
let us know how it turns out.
if there are leaks it might mean you mixed too thin. in which case you might need another coating.
the 1 yard piece i did turned out as waterproof as sil and right at the same weight. just...
hadn't thought about the multiple thinner soakings. might penetrate deeper that way, and you could weigh it after each time to see how much was added.
cool, can't wait till someone does a full tarp.
that's a good idea.
ok, careful with that:), the min spirits dried overnite.
it didn't mix as easily as i thought it would though, i only mixed a couple cups, but it took alot of stirring and swirling to get a...
yeah, 100% clear silicone.
cool, a vaccume, maybe that's how they do a factory impregnation. what did you impregnate the wood with?
yeah, that would be better than wringing it out, wiping it down with a dry sponge or something would still probably be necessary though, depending on how well the rollers worked i guess.
maybe...
i decided to see if i could make my own sil nylon out of breathable 1.1.
i decide to soak it on, thinking i could get a much more consistent coating than with a brush, and also thinking i could...