Originally Posted by nacra533
The trick to using the NE Ropes method is to use a small piece of whipping twine to pull the line back though itself. It's a little finnicky, but nothing that can't be done.
If you're making a sling with an eye on each end...
Another method that works great in 7/64" and 1/8" amsteel as well as vectran lines is to push the eye on the other end of the line through just as you would the tail. It hurts nothing to enlarge the opening a little and when splicing larger line, drastically opening the line is required.
but my question is WHY??
Locked Brummels are not required. You can use a straight bury or a regular brummel, both of which are stronger. Locked Brummels are WEAKER than the other splicing methods. Some may disagree on how much weaker, but no one with any experience will say they are as strong or stronger.
The reason for locking the brummel is to prevent the splice from working loose under low load conditions. The same thing can be done with a little whipping twine, sewing thread, or dental floss. Either stitch the bury for a couple passes or whip the beginning of the bury. Both methods keep the splice from working loose under low load.
You are correct. Locked Brummels are, strictly speaking, not necessary, but having made quite a few stitched eye splices, the locked brummel is a heck of a lot easier for me than the stitching.
As for the locked brummel vs the regular brummel or plain bury for strength - I'll take Brion Toss's word on that. He writes of Locked Brummel:
Properly done, this splice will approach 100% efficiency in strength and security.
I don't think the regular Brummel or plain bury is going to improve on that. Also, the regular Brummel is far from secure.
Also, I have experienced times when stitching a splice is simply not feasible due to lack of needle and/or thread. But doing a locked Brummel was feasible since the splicing tool was readily at hand.