OK so I am a total cheap skate. I love to try and do things better than what you can buy and very frequently find myself paying more than I would have had I just went and bought the darn things. Even thought they mostly "MOSTLY" work better or comparable to said retail jobbies
However this time I found that I was able todo so and get the same results myself. I was a big rock climber way back and had an old beat up harness that I would use for tiny folk that would like to come with and try climbing out. I since have bailed on rope climbing and like to just boulder some when I go camping in southern Utah. So I took a pair of scissors to the old rag and cut out the "Cinch buckles that where used to adjust the leg straps of the harness. I used these just like the JBR Tri-glides however I have a brand new Clark UL and found that I really didn't want to mess with the ropes just yet. So here is a quick explanation of what I used the second time I slept in her this weekend to make adjustments easier. Remember I am totally new here so this is my first few setups and tired very quickly of the unadjustable knots used to hang with. (i.e the Bowman's Knot) Clark's' use rope rather than webbing coming off the hammock body. So I tie the reg Bowman's at the end or any where along its length threw a loop at the end of my strap. I then slid the cinch buckle threw my strap from the unlooped end. I then take that free end and put it threw a biner attached to my tree strap loop for easy slide due to the abrasiveness of the tree strap. (A biner is needed for longevity of both the tree strap and webbing used. I tried it with out the biner the first go and found almost immediately when I tensioned the webbing that it frayed some at the edges and the webbing didn't want to slide easily) I come back down the strap to the buckle and thread it back threw and pull to the right tension. Easy peasy. This setup is far from any different than anyone else's however some are questioning the ability it has to hold proper like. From my days of climbing the best way to prevent any slippage, with this type of buckle, is, you are suppose to come back over the outside and middle spline and threw that last opening and back up the webbing. (Even if this wasn't done I found absolutely no slippage, but I also like to sleep with no worries) So the safety step can be completed as a last step after you made sure your hang angle and hight are correct. This will completely lock the strap in place with no fear of slippage. Now I only need to cut the excess off my rope to really make the whole setup neat and tidy like. I am really questioning doing this because I have about 11 feet of rope attached to the hammock and about 8 feet of strap(doubled up it is 8 Ft.) This gives me, with the ability to tie the Bowman's in my hammock rope anywhere I need and then use the strap for adjustments for just about any situation imaginable. Shoot if the trees are 50' apart I am almost still good to hang. NOTE: However when I tried to hang with the most webbing and rope available I went straight to the dirt, but you get what I am throwing down this will be the way I roll from here on out. Endless options. I don't think i will cut my rope until I am sure I have my kit dialed. Hope this helps anyone with questions about the ability these little suckers have for holding power. I figure if I can take a 10-15 foot whipper off a wall and these are the only things holding me in my harness, I am darn sure they will hold solid for just hanging around.
Price for this setup=Free
I had everything I needed at home from stuff laying around. Yeah I may have killed a harness but I would not let anyone use that thing anymore she has seen better days and will now live on instead of being tucked away in a dark closet. The webbing I used from old ratchet straps for holding down motorcycles with a tensile strength of 400 Lbs. These are the only thing I question as far as the ability to hold my bum (165lbs.)
Anyone have specs/formula on what the weight applied to these straps may be for a lump like myself?