Originally Posted by Just Jeff
Your torso will stretch the hammock body differently than your legs, so you'll need to shape the undercover to account for this or else you'll have less loft there. This would mean having a head and foot end.
I chose to not sew baffles directly to the hammock body for two reasons. First, I didn't like laying on the baffles...with the friction of moving around I thought I'd wear thru them quickly. Second, it minimized the number of holes I had to put into the hammock body...a seam is just like a perforated line...the kind designed to rip stuff! It can work, and my second version hasn't shown signs of failure, but it's definitely something to minimize.
So...if you want baffles, and they may be needed for a full-length version, I'd sew them only to the undercover and not to the hammock body. Basically, make a tube on all for edges with a big compartment in the middle. The tubes will keep the down up near the edges, and the big compartment doesn't need a baffle b/c the down will settle to that area anyway. BUT...this further decreases the weight you're saving.
I'm a fan of the down hammock and it saved me quite a bit of weight for the gathered end version. Not sure the weight savings would be worth it for a bridge hammock, though..it's worth doing the math on, though!
Be sure to post pics of whatever you choose!
So, if I understand correctly, you're suggesting that the baffles need to be decoupled from the hammock body so that the hammock body can stretch independently of the insulated volume. One approach would be to use noseeum or (maybe mosquito mesh if it's lighter) to cover the hammock body and then attach the baffles to the mesh. Effectively, it would be a permanently attached underquilt with one side made mesh. If that's necessary, maybe a quilt made of momentum would be better. I could also us "U" shaped or "L" shaped (i.e. "LLLLL") baffles to get the same effect.
You mentioned another idea, that I may not understand. That is to use some down-filled baffles (say down-filled noseeum mesh tubes) at fairly wide intervals to hold the bottom layer of fabric the right distance from the top layer. The top of each tube would be stitched to the hammock body and the bottom of the tube would be stitched to the bottom cover. That might make the baffles resilient enough to handle the stretching of hammock body.
I wonder if baffles on an angle other than straight down would provide a loose enough connection?
I saw your comment about not lying directly on the baffles but I can't quite visualize the problem. Why are the baffles different. If the stitching looked like it was under stress, I could use some seam sealer to reinforce it.
I appreciate everyone's comments on my crazy ideas. If we can come up with a design that makes sense, I'll be really happy.