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  1. #351
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    "Now to the woods. I would find my tree and if I made no adjustments and found a medium to small tree, I would put the open loop around the tree (once) and put the speed hook thru the end loop and pull tight."

    I think you meant ... put the strap around the tree and the amsteel with the speedhook through the open loop of the strap's free end?

  2. #352
    Senior Member Thumbs's Avatar
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    You can always still hook that fixed loop to a MSH to shorten the strap as well.

  3. #353
    Senior Member miyanc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loki View Post
    I know, what really need is stock in dutchware.

  4. #354
    Senior Member miyanc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldpappy View Post
    You are on the right track. I use 5 foot amsteel configured as you described larks head to 6 foot tree straps. Couple ideas:
    Thin trees - wrap the strap around a couple times until you get the length right.
    Fat trees - I carry a couple amsteel continuous loops (or dog bones) as well as a couple of 2 foot tree straps that I can larks head on the 6 foot tree straps to extend them as necessary. (Yes, the trees here in the NE mature forest need the extensions at times.)
    Also, the 1st batch of speed hooks should be de-burred - take a small round file and run thru the holes/hook to ensure the are smooth and won't snag your amsteel.
    The only thing I do different is use these Dutch Clips on the end of my tree straps to make it easy to attach/disconnect from the tree.
    http://dutchwaregear.com/dutch-clip.html
    If your tree straps don't have loops on each end, use the adjustable clips in the previous post (I'd be using the adjustable clips as well but they hadn't been invented when I ordered)
    I need to make some extra dog bones, and I have dutch clips on my sons set up. He gets the good stuff when I have only one.

  5. #355
    Senior Member miyanc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CeeVee View Post
    "Now to the woods. I would find my tree and if I made no adjustments and found a medium to small tree, I would put the open loop around the tree (once) and put the speed hook thru the end loop and pull tight."

    I think you meant ... put the strap around the tree and the amsteel with the speedhook through the open loop of the strap's free end?
    You said it better, but we are talking about the same. The only language I know is bad englishand its my second language, my first being every worse english.

  6. #356
    Senior Member miyanc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumbs View Post
    You can always still hook that fixed loop to a MSH to shorten the strap as well.
    I see, I then need a toggle or stick, but that could work.

  7. #357
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    I gotta talk to meself to figur what ahm speechafyin' bout most evry time.

  8. #358
    Senior Member Yojimbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miyanc View Post
    OK so first how I constructed the amsteel. I made the locked loop at the end just like I would have to start a whoopie. I buried about 8". I then put the amsteel thru the middle hole in the hook( this is before dutch made the single hole). I then just pulled about 1.5" back thru the end of the line to create a stopper to prevent the hook from falling off. This is a finished length of 5'.

    . . . When I hook to my continuous loop attached to my hammock I can only adjust up to the 8" bury on the amsteel loop. I know dutch said you can adjust closer to the tree because you can avoid the bury, but I am still seeing the issue with the bury.
    If I recall correctly, the buried end on the locked Brummell need not be the full 8" like like bury of the adjusting part of the whoopie. The two intersecting points is what holds the loop. The bury is to just hide the end. I learned to make this bury just about 3"-4" long.

    Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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  9. #359
    Senior Member miyanc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yojimbo View Post
    If I recall correctly, the buried end on the locked Brummell need not be the full 8" like like bury of the adjusting part of the whoopie. The two intersecting points is what holds the loop. The bury is to just hide the end. I learned to make this bury just about 3"-4" long.

    Someone correct me if I am wrong.
    gmcttr advises to loop it back and forth a few times, however if you make the brommel and play with the loop before you bury you will find that if you pull one way it tightens, but the other loosens. I am not sure to what degree. I usually bury 5 inches, but figured my chunky butt needed extra.

  10. #360
    Senior Member markrvp's Avatar
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    My opinion is that you should go with shorter straps and longer Amsteel. If the strap doesn't go all the way around the tree, it's no big deal... some of the wrap will be Amsteel. As long as there is 1" webbing on the back of the tree, having Amsteel along one side won't hurt anything. In this scenario, you have tree huggers with loops at both ends... lark's head the locked Brummel eye of the Amsteel to one loop of the tree hugger. Then you put the strap around the tree and run the Amsteel through the free loop at the other end of the tree strap. This is the lightest weight version of this system that I've found.


    When weight is not a primary concern, I prefer a different setup that is outstanding: I'm using a 6' tree strap with a loop at only one end. A 6' length of Amsteel with a locked-Brummel loop is lark's-headed to that strap. Once the strap goes around the tree, I'm using an Adutchable clip to adjust the strap to the right length for the circumference of the tree. I don't like straps that come out very far from the tree. I view tree straps as just an anchor, and not part of the length of the overall suspension.

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