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  1. #1
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    Can someone take a look at my tree strap stitch?

    Hey guys, quite new to this all. I did a practice run (until the bobbin ran out, whoops) on some webbing before I make my first tree strap. I was hoping I could get some questions answers or some tips from you guys who have done this a million times. Here's my test run:

    webbing.jpg

    1) Is the stitch length too short for these bar tacks, or does it look alright?
    2) Do you usually bar tack diagonally, or straight stitch?
    3) Six inches is about right for length, right? This is just an arbitrary length for testing the stitch.
    4) Any tips for making sure the presser feet grab the webbing? Some of the time it wasn't going and I had to push it a little.

    Thanks guys, have gear coming in for three hammocks but the Dutch order got here first! =) Looking forward to it.

  2. #2
    Senior Member x PREACHER x's Avatar
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    I am new to this too, but I will take a crack at some of the questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by bccarlso View Post
    2) Do you usually bar tack diagonally, or straight stitch?
    I like to do a straight-stitch, and then go back over it w the diagonal stitch, making sure that the diagonal stitch hits on both sides of the straight stitch without catching it. I feel like this gives maximum reinforcement, but others may (and likely do) have wiser input.

    Quote Originally Posted by bccarlso View Post
    4) Any tips for making sure the presser feet grab the webbing? Some of the time it wasn't going and I had to push it a little.
    I generally have one hand behind pulling, and the other guiding and pushing. This keeps it feeding when the pressure feet aren't doing their job.

    Quote Originally Posted by bccarlso View Post
    the Dutch order got here first! =)
    Absolutely standard. Dutch doesn't do it any other way.

  3. #3
    Senior Member lmoseley7's Avatar
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    What you've done looks good but is way overkill in my opinion. Unless you are hanging high up in the trees a straight stitch with a box and an "X" in the middle would suffice or a couple of "W"s would work too. There is a thread where different stitch patterns were tested and the "W"s were the best if I remember correctly. I do much less than what you've done and never had a problem. Good luck and keep at it.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Thumbs's Avatar
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    I've read quite a bit on this and some testing has shown this stitching pattern to be stronger than bar tacs.
    It's how I do them now.

    WebbingStitch.png

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumbs View Post
    I've read quite a bit on this and some testing has shown this stitching pattern to be stronger than bar tacs.
    It's how I do them now.

    WebbingStitch.png
    OK, cool, think I saw that chart earlier too. Do you have a short/medium/long stitch length usually?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bccarlso View Post
    OK, cool, think I saw that chart earlier too. Do you have a short/medium/long stitch length usually?
    8 stitches per inch is about right.

    Also try increasing the pressure on the presser foot if it is not feeding (time to open the user manual). You should not have to pull the webbing through.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    8 stitches per inch is about right.

    Also try increasing the pressure on the presser foot if it is not feeding (time to open the user manual). You should not have to pull the webbing through.
    Thanks gmcttr, might have to do some measuring to figure out what setting 8 stitches per inch is. I think the feed issue was just when I was starting the bar tack at the very edge of the webbing, so the presser foot was almost slanted because not enough fabric was under it. Once I helped it along a little, it was feeding just fine.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bccarlso View Post
    Thanks gmcttr, might have to do some measuring to figure out what setting 8 stitches per inch is. I think the feed issue was just when I was starting the bar tack at the very edge of the webbing, so the presser foot was almost slanted because not enough fabric was under it. Once I helped it along a little, it was feeding just fine.
    Line up the edge of the project with the back of the presser foot. That solves your beginning problem. I also provides some space to help eliminate any tendency to ravel.

    Depending on the age/model of your machine stitch length is e3ither measured in stitches per inch (US machines of vintage age) or length of the stitch in mm (european vintage and more modern US machines. It is easy to tell the difference. Stitches/inch scale runs 6 - 14 or there abouts. Set the scale to eight. mmlength is scaled from 2-8 or so. Set the scale to 3-4. Either way you will be roughly in the middle of the scale.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bccarlso View Post
    OK, cool, think I saw that chart earlier too. Do you have a short/medium/long stitch length usually?
    This may be the chart you're referring to and it was the first thing that popped into my head when I saw your thread title: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post1302641

  10. #10
    Senior Member dingbat's Avatar
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    FYI: According to the manufacturer of our harnesses and web gear at work, stitch tightness is just as important as the pattern. These type of joints apparently get much of their strength from the friction created between the two pieces of webbing, not just the mechanical strength of the stitching.

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