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  1. #1
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    Splicing Shock Cord???

    I've just ordered some shock cord for my new Superfly (both doors and tie-outs). Every video or picture I've seen of shock cord shows it being tied. Is there a way to make a neat looking splice so I can create a continuous loop, or do I just accept the knot? My feeling is that the answer is no, but if it can be done, I figure someone on the forum has done it.

  2. #2
    dirtwheels's Avatar
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    I use the double fishermans knot.

    http://www.animatedknots.com/doublef...Categ=climbing

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  3. #3
    Brien's Avatar
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    I've just spent the last couple of weeks working with shock cord. The double-fisherman's knot is the way to go.

  4. #4
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    I use shock cord loops at tarp tie-out points, connecting to line-locs for side tie outs (1/8") or prussicked to a structural ridgeline for tarp ridge connections (3/16"), and have had no slippage from single fisherman's knots, but I tug on the loop very hard to set the knot. There's a knack to twisting the shock cord as you tie it to counter the opposite twist created when you set the knot. This makes for a neater looking loop, but it works well without doing that.

    Instead of knots, you can also use crimps intended for wire fencing. JrB uses crimped sleeves for their shock cord quilt suspensions that look lighter than the ones I get from the hardware store, but I haven't found that type yet.

    All that said, double fisherman's knots might be your best bet.

  5. #5
    Finally something I can help with. The bungees on my kayak are made with continuous loops that have smooth splices which are very strong and have been in service for several years now. This is what I did (following advice from others) . Cut the bungee about 1" longer than what you want for the loop. Roll back the overbraid on both ends about an inch exposing the inner white rubber core. Trim of 1/2" of the exposed core on one side. Now glue the inner cores together using a simple butt joint (I use a medium CA glue). This joint is suprisingly strong. Stretch the joint and clamp in a stretched position, this will reduce the diameter of the bungee. Now roll the overbraids over the exposed cores, first one side then the other (the stretching helps keep the overlaps the same diameter). They should overlap about 1/2", using more CA glue saturate the overlapped area. Work the joint smooth with gloved fingers. Cleanup any stray fibers with a razor blade. This joint seams as strong as the rest of the shock cord, and only leaves a 1/2 inch long section of stiff bungee.

    I've done this on 3/8 and 1/8" successfully, it can be hard to work the overbraid back but just take your time and you can do it.

    David

  6. #6
    You might want to check this link out, it has better instructions. And they are better than mine....

    http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Bu...mes/read/54933

  7. #7
    DaddyDaddy's Avatar
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    Interesting idea. I just ordered some tarp worms from Dutch but will likely change out the shock cord down the road for a different color (my own variety of OCD - HYOH). When I find the shock cord I want, this will be in the mix to play with.
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  8. #8
    Member mrh_on's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wysedav View Post
    You might want to check this link out, it has better instructions. And they are better than mine....

    http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Bu...mes/read/54933
    Bookmarking this thread for future reference. Just ordered some shockcord for an upcoming tarp purchase and in case I break a cord on my kayak Thanks for the great info wysedav

  9. #9
    Richard Tipton's Avatar
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    I use a fisherman's knot(double or single), but splicing might be the ticket for guy lines and stuff that you can see.
    "Never corner anything meaner than you are...."-Unknown

  10. #10
    New Member
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    [QUOTE=smooth splices David[/QUOTE]

    I think this is exactly what the doctor ordered. As soon as the cord gets in I'll try it. Thanks David

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