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  1. #41
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    i'd say below, but you'll need to have sufficient insulation in both areas to stay warm. it's also easier to supplement topside insulation with extra clothes, and a tq will probably be more efficient than an uq in most cases. (assuming it stays tucked in properly)

  2. #42
    Peter_pan's Avatar
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    Twilliger,

    If my quilts are an un-balanced set I'd put the warmer one on the bottom if expecting to be at or near the limits of the thinest one...Also it will be warmest to let the TQ or bag lie as loosely as possible on the top...With a good UQthat wraps well passed the mid shoulder points a TQ does not even have to be tucked to be effective.

    That said it sounds like you were in an unprotected site and you were uncomfortable about it and thus tossing and turning...Most folk don't move much once settled in... Thus it is rare for TQs to come untucked...If you were unable to come withing 10 degrees of any fairly rated quilt/bag it is most likely that wind is the culpret, not the quilt/bag rating...Almost all manufacturers rate quilts/bags out of the wind or in a tent etc.

    Pan
    Ounces to Grams.

    www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413

  3. #43
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    Putting the AC down low here in the hotel in Texas and sleeping under mine tonight!!!!!!
    Eager to get it in the field for true tests. hoping it will get me to 20º with my winter UQ.
    Whoooooo Buddy. It is a really nicely made quilt. Terrific stuff Pan and Smee!!!
    Snug Shug
    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  4. #44
    Smee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkerik View Post
    This is all so very interesting - consider also density (as some of you here have spoke) in addition to "fill" and there adds another aspect to warmth.

    "Fill power" gives said given volume to a baffle but then stuff beyond that maximum volume and you are then increasing density, right?

    Density it seems, (to a point of course) increases warmth to keep the air that is trapped in an enclosed space (baffle) from convecting or circulating air. I think it would probably not take too much - just a little - stuff beyond maximum volume for a baffle to slow or eliminate convection. Too much density and then you are now increasing conduction - less warmth and more weight.

    Maybe another thread or topic on it? Is there one like this here already? maybe near the vapor barrier discussion stuff? I'm new to this forum stuff.

    hope i'm not rambling...

    kirk
    Here's a little light reading on the subject of insulation:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_insulation

    In the case of a hammock and any of the insulators most of us use, conduction is negligible. Our primary culprit is radiative heat transfer. The solution is more thickness or loft, not density.

    Here's another article that might help:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer

    Regards,

  5. #45
    Senior Member Sailor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smee View Post
    In the case of a hammock and any of the insulators most of us use, conduction is negligible. Our primary culprit is radiative heat transfer. The solution is more thickness or loft, not density.
    I'm no hot shot scientist on this subject, but I would think heat loss in a hammock is a combination of all three methods- radiation, convection and conduction. We radiate heat, and pure reflectors are best at stopping this, nylon not so good; convective, in that cooler air or the moisture on our skin absorbs heat and then moves on, which insulation is meant to prevent, in that the air absorbs the heat and stays in place; and conduction, when we transfer heat to the nylon of the hammock or quilts; but the quilts, holding air still, don't radiate, conduct or convect the heat away very well--they hang on to it. I think that the number 1 issue for UQ's or TQ's is sealing around the edges, so that warm air cannot escape and be replaced by cold air. Reflective breathable lining would help with radiation prevention. Thickness of the still air (thickness of the baffles important). But number 1, stop the movement of air around the edges...IMHO

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smee View Post
    In the case of a hammock and any of the insulators most of us use, conduction is negligible. Our primary culprit is radiative heat transfer. The solution is more thickness or loft, not density.

    i think what was meant is that if overstuff is too excessive, and the down is too tightly packed, it might begin to conduct more heat itself. i've heard that mentioned before, can't remember where (probably here)

    density does play a major role i think. anyone who has opened up an existing quilt and added down to it will tell you it did make a difference. density plays a role with just about any trapped-air insulation really, look at ccf for example, 2 different pieces the exact same thickness can be totally different warmths, the denser foam will be warmer. 2 quilts, one overstuffed and one not, same thickness, the overstuffed (more dense fill) will be warmer. of course loft is a factor too, but i think loft and density are really intertwined. it's the right combo of the 2 that you're looking for i think.

  7. #47
    Senior Member Sailor's Avatar
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    I agree with the density...which is why space or a vaccuum thermos do their job--no air, no convection or conduction

  8. #48
    Senior Member Hawk-eye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sailor View Post
    I agree with the density...which is why space or a vaccuum thermos do their job--no air, no convection or conduction
    But a vaccum thermos keeps hot things hot ... and cold things cold ...

    HOW DO IT KNOW????

    Sorry ... old joke and I couldn't resist ...

    WARNING: Will discuss Rhurbarb Strawberry Pie and Livermush at random.


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  9. #49
    Senior Member Sailor's Avatar
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    old joke, but its been a favorite of mine for years...and years...and years...

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