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  1. #11
    Senior Member Boston's Avatar
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    Those taper number's are based on using 1 fid length as the taper. I am not sure where that specification came from however. I am not the originator of that chart.

    Personally, for dynaglide or amsteel 7/64, I've always used about 1-1.5" for the taper, and just eyeball it.

    The idea is to have a smooth transition to the larger diameter of the buried portion, as sharp transition's create a stress concentration (area where the effective load on the line is larger than the actual load - therefore it will fail at this point when it fails, and before the true breaking force is reached. This is part of the reason why we have safety factors).

  2. #12
    Senior Member Tenshi's Avatar
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    A lot of good info here. And I think I'll go with the hooks. Thanks guys.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Tenshi's Avatar
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    Update: whoopie slings came out great and loving the hooks, simplicity is perfection.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Ridge_Dog's Avatar
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    I have read elsewhere in this forum to cut the taper at an angle to the length needed to taper. How would that faciltate pulling the amsteel through? Just curious because angling the line would be much easier then pulling and cutting strands.

    Would you need to us a Fid tool?
    Last edited by Ridge_Dog; 05-18-2015 at 09:29.
    As messed up as a soup sandwich

  5. #15
    Senior Member Tenshi's Avatar
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    The taper is less about ease of pulling through (easy regardless with a fish tool) and more about not creating a stress point (i.e. weak point) on the line it's inside of.

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