First (newly designed) Hammock (Steinadler 1) ready

[xxl_hanger]

Nice

The nicest thing from my point of view is that I'm a few steps further as an intended casual hanger and that are already able to hang in the woods and listen to the birds' twittering. I would currently not have the power to start again from the beginning. I know that I made quite a few mistakes and how painstaking I fixed them. This part of the story was not included in my plans. My biggest problem I noticed during the realization process was to get exact measurements along the zipper. Almost all measurements showed different figures and this problem made me crazy. Somehow I need to have a tool to master this problem next time.

Be careful with the Velcro. I used it once to solve a similar problem and to be honest I was not happy with the result. I uses 20mm Velcro all the way but it is stiff and adds bulk furthermore it takes more force to pull apart than most of us think. If I had to do it over I would use 10mm Velcro or only a few spots of the 20mm. As I understand it you only need it to avoid zipper problems so there is no reason to overdo it. Before you do anything think in alternative solutions, perhaps buttons or a snap or two.
Perhaps if you fold some Grosgrain over the edge and sew it on it becomes stiff enough so it isn’t an issue anymore.

It happened only when I reinstalled the zipper sliders and when the hammock was not hanging. Therefore I like the idea most to sew thin grosgrain ribbon in color black over the bottle green edges. I have many meters of very lightweight grosgrain ribbon which I can use (ExTex Art. 70445 - can be used even folded, it is still very thin and elastic when sewed together - and 70446).

Currently my main problem is how I should install the Kam Snaps for the second top cover/weather shield (which is held almost in place by folding over the RL) and perhaps also the storage pocket which will be mounted between the pad openings and the next tie-out (on the right shoulder side and the left leg side). A minimal solution could be right. Somehow I will provide the right reinforcement for the Kam Snaps with the thin grosgrain too and I want to avoid to make holes into the zipper tape. The 22 mm grosgrain version is only about 6 grams/meter but strong enough to withstand any stress which could come from pulling on the Kam Snaps. The 12 mm version is even lighter but recommended by ExTex in conjunction with the pack hook mounting. I used it duplex for the pack hooks and single as "twill tape" when I reinforced the two flat felled seams on the first top cover (the seams between the netting and the fabric). It is as thin that nobody can feel it there. But I'm pretty sure that the netting will never fray out even if I would make 10 holes in the middle of the flat felled seam for the Kam Snaps fixture. But I still want to hide the Kam Snaps. I'm looking primarily for a solution where the Snaps cannot been seen from outside of the hammock. Another solution would be to make them deliberately visible like the eyelets on jeans.

[xxl_hanger]

Wow. Thats very nice looking. Thanks for sharing.

I still forgot say where I got the idea for this realization from. After I saw these two videos of Derek Hansen it was promptly clear what I will realize. I made it different but the result is a mixture of the two hammocks and mine is a bit more custom made for my body size.

http://theultimatehang.com/2015/03/d...erbird-review/
http://theultimatehang.com/2015/04/h...ammock-review/

I made a small mock hammock about 26" long from a plastic trash bag before I started. This little mock hammock looks very nice and I can compare it with a similar nice looking WBBB mock hammock of the same size. There was much math involved in the design of the top cover but in the final end I made the top cover (especially the fabric parts of the top cover) in exactly the same way than Lost_Biker or XTrekker. These manual adjustments were not included in my plan. I think I would have to repeat the whole planning process again to find some errors and to make it better. Somewhere I made a big mistake but cannot explain it myself. It is possible to calculate all top cover dimensions for any hammock size only with math. I know it but won't try it again - not before I have completed my overdue other DIY projects.

[Snowball]

I understand your frustration. Measuring fabric is not easy but some of it is about mindset. I learned that early when I started to make gear. I am trained and work in the metal industry so I am use to very fine tolerances and no flexibility in the materials. It’s something I can forget when working with these materials. Most of the time I adapt and wing it as I go along but i think alot before i start.
Regarding the hidden snaps it won’t be easy without adding more fabric, like a flap over the edge but you have to decide if it’s worth it. I dont think it is.
I would also go grosgrain for the snap attachment.

Another thing to consider before you do anything is ventilation. I do not have any experience regarding that but it was advise I got when I made a hammock with integrated top cover. I am still thinking about my project but you have the benefit you can remove the top when sewing I can’t. Besides that yours is a Snap-On.
An idea could be:
cover.png

BTW.
I can’t think of any good reason to use a lot of snaps. One for every 30cm (12”) or so should do the job. You can always add more but you can’t remove them.

[xxl_hanger]

I just thought about your post and found a solution as follows:

The finished dimension of the additional weather shield will be about 42,5" x 55" . I will roll hem the edges about 4/8"-5/8" and sew in thin grosgrain (twill tape) as reinforcement into the hems. Then I will use a stab awl and try to make small holes without hurting the fabric much. Perhaps I first use a thin needle and try too widen the holes a bit. If i make Kam Snaps all 6" then each long side will have 9 Snaps and the short side 7 - 2 = 5. In total 28 snaps.

The counterparts for the short sides go along the two flat felled seams on the inside of the top cover. There is fabric on the outside of the seam and netting on the inside. I don't want to make the snaps visible. Therefore I can sew additional grosgrain stripes on the inside of the flat felled seam (which is reinforced netting). I can mount the Kam Snaps before I sew the grosgrain on the seam. I think this would be a nice solution.

For the long sides I have imo no option. I cannot go through the zipper tape where the netting is sewn on with two stitch lines and a rolled hem. I have to sew on an additional grosgrain stripe on the inside of each zipper tape. I can use the same technique. First mount the Kam Snaps on the grosgrain and then sew on the grosgrain on the zipper tape where the netting is sewn on.

I need the weather shield most likely only rarely. If I need more vent area I can always open one or two Kam Snaps and so on. But I think such a weather shield can always be better than nothing especially when some additional protection is really required. It will be stored in a very small peak bag.

A good compromise would be perhaps Kam Snaps all 8". This would be in total 20 (8 less) and is most likely enough because the weather shield is folded over the RL and the Kam Snaps have only to fix the weather shield. The tension can be the same than on the bug net if I make the Kam Snaps at the right places.

[Yojimbo]

I have been puzzling for over a year how to create a top cover with a netted window that comes down to the corners of the pull outs. Being afraid of sewing zippers has held me back. I had a long talk with Mommeck at MAHHA last fall about this. Their window at the time was at the ends and not quite what I wanted. Their new Peek-a-boo window in closer but their one zipper doesn't do it either. Looking at the shape of your window, it is exactly what I was looking for. What I want to do different is add zippers on each side to attach material to complete the top cover under the netting. My main goal is to have a solid top cover rith the ability to open windows on both sides down low for ventilation and viewing purposes while keeping it contained with netting. Also I want to use two zippers, one on each side to make the top removable like the Dangerbird. I like this technique over the single zipper that goes all the way around.

[xxl_hanger]

I was busy and already in a little hurry! I will become ready to hang and to start my first outdoor trip soon. It was still a lot of work to complete my first hammock. I describe the work I have done during the last two weeks (Sorry! Some pictures are blurred and the lighting in the shadow was poor - I have much more pictures - about 170, but to show all these would be too much):

Tree-Straps
I improved my tree-straps a bit and sew a longer pair of tree straps (9ft long). With the second pair I can hang also on thicker (standard!?) trees with a 20-25" diameter as you can see on the third picture.







Hammock guy-lines
I like to use normal draw cord tarp tensioners with prusik knots which I have extended with shock cord in the same manner as on a original WBBB. I don't need much tension on my hammock tie-outs and I think I can even waive on guylines. But I find it very useful to be able to adjust the tie-out tension from inside the hammock with a prusik knot. I connected the prusik knot loops at the pack hook tie-outs of my hammock in the same way as it is done here.

Edge Binding and RL
I shortened my RL by about 3-4". It is now about 110" long and the tension on the hammock sides is a bit reduced. I sewed still two grosgrain ribbon loops with pack hooks on my hammock ends (at the foot end on the two zipper tape ends and at the head end on the zipper triangle end where this triangle is sewn on the two layers of the hammock. The pack hooks are then connected with draw cord loops to the suspension. On these shock cord pieces are also loops for the two peak bags (see pictures below) and at the head end I have a longer piece of draw cord with a loop which I can use as a handle when I want to change my lay in the hammock.



On the next picture you can see how the draw cord loops are connected to the suspension. On each hammock end are three loops. The first is the loop from the Dyneema continuous loop which binds the hammock ends together (using the DH pull-through method). The next loop is the Dyneema RL loop and then there is another black draw cord loop.



Because of this grosgrain ribbon/draw cord loops there is almost no tension on the hammock fabric on the hammock ends. One can see it now - the ultimate perfect hang:




Zipper ends
I closed the two zipper ends with metal clamps. I think there is no need to fiddle with my 6 zipper sliders (three on each side) again.

RL organizer, peak bags, open ended stuff sack and storage pocket with zipper top
I copied more or less some DH add-ons. RL organizer and peak bags should have approx the same format. I used a pillow-case to determine the optimal size of the open ended stuff sack for my hammock. My storage pocket with zipper top has the same functionality and form than the similar add-on for a DH. But I made it larger. It is about 25" wide and 13" high. It fits in the pad opening between the layers.














I can hide the storage pocket between the two hammock layers and I can lay it even outside the hammock. Some pictures from inside the hammock.












Peak shelf
I made a plan for a removable peak shelf with Kam Snaps but I stopped this project because I don't know yet whether I really need one. I thought also it would be better to save the no-see-um mesh for two tarp snake skins and perhaps for the baffles of a top quilt. If I need a peak shelf I can make it later. I have still 180cm x 103cm no-see-um mesh over if I give up the plans for a down top quilt and make a synthetic one instead.

Two different top-covers
Both have the same rectangular size than the no-see-um bug net and both fit into one peak bag. I used 20 #5 Kam Snaps to attach them below the bug net.



All Kam Snaps are reinforced somehow from the inside with lightweight grosgrain ribbon (Ramblinrev would call it twill tape) or zipper tape and rolled hems with no-see-um mesh. I made all holes for the Kam Snaps very carefully with a sharp round awl and I used the original Kam Snaps pliers to press the Kam Snaps together. Up to now I noticed no problem. The best way to tie up the top-covers is from outside the hammock. I can do it from one but any hammock side. This procedure lasts about 2 minutes. A bit longer than to close a full-length hammock zipper. One top cover is made with 1.1oz olive rip-stop nylon. It is very transparent but it was not easy to sew it. The fabric was very stretchy and when I finished it it was a bit too short. I had to add another piece with a flat-felled seam. The other one is made with 1.9oz rip-stop nylon. This was very easy to sew. It is the same fabric as I used for the inner layer of my hammock. I embroidered "EAGLE I" on the outside of this top-cover. I have stolen the logo from an old "THE EAGLES" logo and another logo I found somewhere. I wouldn't do it again, it was too much work, but I had to try it once.












One nice feature of both top-covers. The Kam Snaps are about 8" to 10" apart. There are many small vents between the snaps. I can see through these vents outwards but nobody will see me inside. Even my nose could smell (or feel) the fresh air which comes through these small vents (or the difference between the inside and outside temperature. I last not very long and I felt the difference). One vent (the first one next to the tie-out) was about 4" over my head. It is easy to open the Kam Snaps over my head if I want it.

In total. I think it was a good idea to use Kam Snaps for the top covers. I would do it next time again and in the same manner. My method saved a lot of fabric and I got some other benefits too, but most important the Kam Snaps solution solved my zipper problem. The total weight of the two top covers (including 40 Kam Snaps, grosgrain reinforcements, one no-see-um peak bag, some draw cord and the mini cord look) is 7.9oz (227g). Without the somewhat heavy second bottle green top cover the additional weight is only 3.4oz (97g).



Under Quilt
My first UQ is ready and I think it is very nice. I used 6oz Climashield Apex for a 3/4 length (59"x45") UG. The inner liner is made with lightweight down-proof Pertex material. The outer shell is the same 1.9oz ripstop nylon I used for the inner layer of my hammock. I made it this way because it was the most solid solution based on the different properties of the fabrics I used. The rectangular quilt is more or less made according the KAQ instructions with some modification. I made the reinforcements for the four grosgrain loops in a similar way as it is done for the Superfly pullouts (grosgrain reinforcement pieces sewn on the wrong side of the liner) and I sewed the liner and the shell with some handmade basting stitches together before I pinned and sewed all layers with the CS insulation together (inside out method). This was a bit more work but the sewing result was perfect. The aha-effect came when I turned right side out. (I would do it this way again and always use the KAQ instruction as a guideline). I made no quilting loops but I think it would be very easy to make them (4 rows and 3 columns with a total of 12 quilting loops would be fine and nobody would see it!). The stuff sack for the UG is oversized like the AHE one but has a grosgrain ribbon handle on the bottom. This one is sewn on the bottom definition tabs which are folded inside the stuff sack. I used again a pillow-case to determine the best size. Before I pack my UG I fold it three-ply and then in half. Then I roll it straight. It fits rolled-up exactly and very easy into the stuff sack which can be compressed then further if (and only if) it is really required. I think this packing method will protect the life of my UQ. I would not use a compression sack for such a quilt.














Tarp
I finished also my first tarp. I used a heavy ripstop polyester blanket with eyelets. It has a nice camo pattern outside and it is black inside, but the original material is about 120g/sqm heavy and very stiff. It has a thick undefined waterproof coating. The base material was 158" x 118" sized. I bought it very cheap on Ebay (yes, I call it a garage tarp!). I cut off all eyelets and made the full range of Superfly clone mods. The finished tarp has now a 130" RL and still a total length of about 158". The doors can be closed. I think it would be a good idea to use Kam Snaps for this purpose too.

Tarp before any mods. I was unable to span it nicely and to fold it properly.



Tarp after Superfly mods. Now it is easy to span it and also (I did not expect this) to fold it properly along the RL, but there is still no chance to pack it unfolded, the fabric is too stiff for any stuff method.








I think I need no pullouts on this tarp. It is already very roomy, I have enough place inside without any pullouts and I can put a very high tension on the tarp fabric without any pullouts. The tie-outs are sewn on nylon webbing reinforcement pieces and would hold imo very strong tensions. But I can still sew on pullouts if I miss them.

One keyring was too weak to hold the strong RL tension I put on this tarp during first usage. I need to buy more stressable rings but I can use a simple knot too. The nylon grosgrain RL is very strong and I think I don't have to seal the RL further.



Tarp in porch mode:











Pictures made from inside the hammock:

I find the lay in this 11.5ft hammock terrific and very flat. I like it to lay in this hammock more and more and I found already three or four different positions in which I would like to sleep. The UQ seams to be very warm. I felt it already and I like the warmth from below. The UQ covers half of my head and almost all of my cocked legs when I lay in side position. I think my top quilt must not have full length too. I will try to make it as short as possible but without waiving normal comfort ideas.








Work which is still on my To-Do list:

- First Priority. Top quilt with Stuff Sack. Most likely I will use Primaloft Gold as insulation this time and a nice dark olive down-proof nylon fabric of the same quality which I used already for the liner of my UQ. I have longer multi-day bicycle outdoor trips in mind and don't want to run into the risk that I can't use a down quilt because it got somehow wet (humidity or sweat). Therefore I think I will not use downs which I normally would prefer as sleeping comfort and because of the expected smaller pack size. I think this would save also some work and I can use the experience which I won with my UG already.

- Next: I need some cooking stuff and an alcohol stove.

- Super-light silnylon tarp (Superfly stylish) with no-see-um snake skins and stuff sack. I have the fabric already. It is a nice 1.1oz/sqy brown-olive. I will start to sew this projects as soon as I get some practice with my camo garage tarp.

[Eidson]

Wow. Amazing work!

[xxl_hanger]

Looking at the shape of your window, it is exactly what I was looking for. What I want to do different is add zippers on each side to attach material to complete the top cover under the netting. My main goal is to have a solid top cover rith the ability to open windows on both sides down low for ventilation and viewing purposes while keeping it contained with netting. Also I want to use two zippers, one on each side to make the top removable like the Dangerbird. I like this technique over the single zipper that goes all the way around.

The finished size of the top-cover rectangles I use is 55.5" x 41.7" (141cm x 106cm). You could use a second zipper or even more zippers instead of Kam Snaps, but then you get other problems. 2 x 55.5 + 2 x 41.7 =~ 195" and the zipper(s) has(have) to be separable .... and should not go around sharp edges. Another problem. I clearly felt the difference between outside and inside temperature already when I used my Kam Snaps top-covers the first time. Next time I will use perhaps a thermometer to measure this difference. It is said that this difference is about 10°. I believe that and I appreciate that I have already small vents between the Kam Snaps. I will most likely get no condensation problems because of this little vents and I can open or close some Kam Snaps without any problem from inside. If I want to remove the top-cover completely I will go outside and remove it as fast as you can open a zipper.

I read some other arguments against Kam Snaps but I think that all these arguments are very weak. All problems which Kam Snaps might create can be solved ... easily and in the final end they are much cheaper and lighter than one separable zipper.

[cjayflo]

I love this hammock and this thread! Co-operation around the world, gotta love it!

[xxl_hanger]

I love this hammock and this thread! Co-operation around the world, gotta love it!

I like my hammock and the idea which is behind of it too, Thanks! Almost everything and the way I did it I have learned in this forum.

There are some points I would improve next time.

- use a nicer color than this bootle green (it was a compromize because of short supply in Europe).
- make it a bit lighter than a 1.9oz DL
- use lighter ripstop for the top cover
- use perhaps a #3 zipper on both sides instead of one #5 zipper.
- I would integrate the zipper tapes on both hammock ends into the whipping similar like it was done on the (older) Blackbird. This makes the hammock stronger. There is no need to make something like an edge binding loop or a parabola cut below the head end zipper triangle. Most likely the top cover would look even a bit nicer on the head end. And I would expect that even the top cover is done then much easier. (The easiest solution ist often the best!).
- I would not make a cat cut on the hammock ends again.
- I would make the openings for the pad not centered again. On the left side closer to foot end and on right side more to the head end. Reason. That way I can reach the storage board better which I can hide between the two layers.
- I would try to make the top cover/bug net only with math and a bit common knowledge.

Most important benefits, imo:
- You can save a lot of fabric with this solution
- You can solve all your zipper problems with a cheap endless zipper and 6 double sided sliders.
- The cheap Kam Snaps solution is almost perfect in order to change the top cover. It's all one needs even for very cold situations.