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  1. #21
    Senior Member zukiguy's Avatar
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    +1 on the 4x6. The 4x4 posts on my fence sagged quite a bit when I hooked to them just for a trial. A 6x6 was about to break the bank. The 4x6 was a very good compromise of strength and price.

  2. #22
    gunner76's Avatar
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    You'd have to be pretty fat to bend a 4X4 post.
    I had two 4x4 posts break a few years back. There dug 4 feet into the ground and I used concrete to make sure they did not go anywhere. They both broke a few inches above the concrete. Posted pictures of it on the forum. I strongly recommend that you use 4x6 or 6x6 I now use 7-8" diameter pier pilings ( think telephone poles ).
    I am still 18 but with 52 years of experience !

  3. #23
    Senior Member bcaron's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I'm off to the store to get a 6x6 or fat galvanized fence post.
    " I have not yet begun to procrastinate!"

  4. #24
    Senior Member OneClick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcaron View Post
    Thanks guys. I'm off to the store to get a 6x6 or fat galvanized fence post.
    I've been wanting to cement some PVC "holders" in the ground, then put galvanized pipe into that for a nice removable setup. Just too lazy to do it!

  5. #25
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    Think a 4x4 is more than adequate, especially for connect points 6' high or more? Look at what happens to this 12x12" solid brick-and-mortar column, connected only about 4' high or less.



    This also demonstrates the absolute requirement for a high angle of hang.
    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

    http://www.MeetUp.com/NashvilleBackpacker
    .

  6. #26
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    Not sure that the craftsmanship is a good example of the structural strength from properly done stacked stone or layed brick.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by markr6 View Post
    I've been wanting to cement some PVC "holders" in the ground, then put galvanized pipe into that for a nice removable setup. Just too lazy to do it!
    That would be the ticket! Concrete around wood is a recipe for failure. Now if you could form a deep pocket that you could slip that post into and remove it (like the pipe idea), then maybe it would hold up. One of the problems is having the hole get junk in it when the post isn't there. I suppose you could fashion a plug...

    Wooden posts need 1/3 of their overall length to be in the ground if you're going to have any chance of them working to support anything.

  8. #28
    Senior Member OneClick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TominMN View Post
    That would be the ticket! Concrete around wood is a recipe for failure. Now if you could form a deep pocket that you could slip that post into and remove it (like the pipe idea), then maybe it would hold up. One of the problems is having the hole get junk in it when the post isn't there. I suppose you could fashion a plug...
    Yeah that was my plan. Some type of green plastic cover to keep it looking nice and easy to run the lawn mover over. I figured 2" PVC buried around quikrete, then 1.5" pipe set into that. Maybe even put the PVC at the slightest angle outward just to be safe. Got this idea from removable tether ball kits. Or thicker pipe all around; I'm not sure about the limits yet.

    This looks pretty cool, but doubt it's suitable for hanging. Only for hitting a little ball around. I don't need to mess with threading anything. The pole would just set in there loose. But you get the idea:


  9. #29
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    If you want a look at forces check out the threads where somebody was breaking climbing hardware using it for tight rope walking.

    If you are trying a 4x4 I'd look for one cut centered around the tree and probably use a line opposite the anchor point to ground. Look around the telco or power poles for an example.
    YMMV

    HYOH

    Free advice worth what you paid for it. ;-)

  10. #30
    Senior Member OneClick's Avatar
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    Wow, this is exactly what I was thinking:

    http://www.practicalbackpacking.com/...testing-stand/

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