Super simple, strong, fairly cheap, very quick bipod style stand.

[Ratdog]

Had a chance to use the stand again after making the pin modifications. Much happier.

Going to swap out my 7/64ths dogbone with a 1/8" dogbone due to the derating of the line when using locked brummels, let alone a pair of locked brummels.

[tangara]

[QUOTE=Ratdog;1635070]

>>I made one a while back using 2 of the 1 inch High Pitch Reinforced Right Corners.

I like that approach but my concern is all the torque placed on the single T's at the bottom of the stand. All side to side motion is limited by these T's and you are totally dependent on the welds. The welds on the tarps.com brackets aren't anywhere near as beefy as say those on the Meck stand. That and you need pretty level ground to setup the stand. Even so, it was the first stand I built, happened to use plumbing supplies instead of brackets from tarps.com.

I've got a couple hundred nights in it and I don't see anything showing any stress yet. (I use it indoors whenever I'm home or the weather is too bad to sleep in the ouside hammocks.) For the cost it's been worth it. Most of the torque seems to be end to end. As for uneven ground, since the leg sets don't have to be set square, when I've used it outside I haven't had any trouble manouvering to get all four legs evenly on the ground, and then I tighten the set screws.

[Ratdog]

[QUOTE=tangara;1635128]

I've got a couple hundred nights in it and I don't see anything showing any stress yet. (I use it indoors whenever I'm home or the weather is too bad to sleep in the ouside hammocks.) For the cost it's been worth it. Most of the torque seems to be end to end. As for uneven ground, since the leg sets don't have to be set square, when I've used it outside I haven't had any trouble manouvering to get all four legs evenly on the ground, and then I tighten the set screws.

Are you talking about a spurtle stand, i.e. not a tripod or bipod but rather the setup that has the legs horizontal to the surface of our planet?

Good to hear you have several hundred nights in a stand, well in a hammock in the first place and then in a hammock on a stand. Even better that the stand has been stable. Like I said, I built one, and I agree the only movement I really felt was end to end but I always was concerned about the side to side. Usually because I'll "walk" my hammock back a little bit when getting out. I suppose I should just hang it higher and that wouldn't be an issue.

[tangara]

[QUOTE=Ratdog;1635142]

Are you talking about a spurtle stand, i.e. not a tripod or bipod but rather the setup that has the legs horizontal to the surface of our planet?

Like I said, I built one, and I agree the only movement I really felt was end to end but I always was concerned about the side to side. Usually because I'll "walk" my hammock back a little bit when getting out. I suppose I should just hang it higher and that wouldn't be an issue.

No, I wanted one with a top bar and A frame legs. I had been using an old swingset outside for a long time, but the top bar was too short, so I had to use some creative tying down the side legs to get the right angles. I don't like the stands with the bar along the ground for you to fall on if things go south. I looked around for quite a while until I found the corner angles at one of the canopy places. I was just short of getting ready to have the local welder just make me a couple corners. This worked out well, and doesn't weigh a ton. I still haven't sawed off the odd fourth leg of the joint. I keep thinking maybe I'll find a use for it someday.

As for walking back to get out, that's one reason why I wanted to go with the solid corner. There's still a chance of tipping if you push it too far, but the legs won't collapse like they can when you use the L sections.

[NekroVirus]

I was looking at the tarp fittings link, and was wondering if it was possible to build a hammock stand with two 1 3/8 Low Pitch 4 Way Peak Center (or a 1 5/8) and chain link fence post rails to make a hammock stand similar to something like this

Is this possible, or would the forces put on the structure be too much?

[Hammonkey]

Anyone have a source on a sturdy inexpensive bag to pack my disassembled stand into for storage and transport? (I've got 6' legs)

[GreatBigDave]

Anyone have a source on a sturdy inexpensive bag to pack my disassembled stand into for storage and transport? (I've got 6' legs)

you might look for a cheap ski or snowboard bag.

[Ratdog]

So I'm switching to the outside the legs method for hanging the hammock.

There is less stress on the ridgepole and what stress there is has the poles bending upwards vs downward. Better should there be a catastrophic failure. The end to end movement feels to be less when configured this way. And I get better hang angles for the hammock.

My inside leg to inside leg measurement is 12'6" to 13' depending on leg placement and that just isn't enough to hang the XLC between the legs at each end and still get the ridgeline taught. Sure I can shorten the ridgeline w/ the carabiner wrap method but I get much closer if I suspend the hammock from the ends.

Not sure if I'm going to just purchase the end caps and use S hooks or just wrap straps or continuous loops outside the clevis pins. Probably will try both methods.

Might extend the ridgepole length as well.

[IsaacNewt]

Hi,

I would love to build this stand!* Unfortunately I can’t since I’m in Britain and we don’t have access to the same materials that you guys have.* I can’t get the fence rails over here (and while I could get the L brackets, the sizes wouldn’t match any of the tubing that would be practical).

I would also like my stand to break down into lengths of about 3.5 feet (to easily fit into my car) and be light enough to carry on an aeroplane for when I travel.

With* this in mind, I’ve been thinking about supplementing this as my ridgepole:*https://www.haydon.info/proddetail.a..._BOOT_MAST_SET

It’s a 1.5’’ diameter, 16swg (0.064 inch wall thickness) aluminium pole in 3ft swaged sections.

I believe that the military surplus aluminum poles that you can get in the US are 13 swg, so quite a lot thicker.* I’ve been trying to picture whether these 16swg poles would work as a ridge pole, since they’ll presumably be quite a bit weaker than either the steel top rail or the military surplus aluminum pole.* My guess is it’s all about how tight the swaging is and whether it allows any deflection at all (which would then provide leverage to bend* - or in the case of aluminum – sheer and impale).* I could go out to a 2 inch diameter and even a 13 swg, but the cost and weight would increase significantly.

For brackets, I was thinking of using these:http://www.moonraker.eu/rigging-and-...horizontalwith a quick-release bolt from a bicycle seat post.* This would hopefully serve the same purpose as your L brackets, although would be spaced a little further apart.

I’ve not specked the legs yet, but given that the forces on the legs are weaker, I’m less concerned about these.* I’ll probably source some aluminum tubes that telescope down to store inside the ridgepole sections.

Does anyone have any good guesses as to whether these mast sections and brackets may hold?* I weigh 180 pounds.

[zukiguy]

Wow, I like those aluminum mast sections. I've got a set of the camo-netting poles but I've got the same problem. No off-the-shelf brackets fit them. I made a set from some Sch80 proven to be plenty strong but it's kind of bulky. The pole sections are 4' so you end up with some really-really long legs.

You might check to see if you can find a local pipefitter, muffler shop, or fabricator that does handrails to see what kinds of brackets they might sell. The moonraker brackets look like they'll work OK. I'd skip the quick release and just tighten the one sleeve holder to fit the swaged ends and lock it down. For the u-bolt sides maybe add some big wingnuts or some kind of knobs you can tighten by hand.