Costco Down Throw Quilts

**pinballwizard** · 11-19-2015, 10:06

Originally Posted by cspan37421

... and still have an effective UQ design with the costco throws? I already own two of them, but do not have an underquilt. Since I'm not wholly sold yet on hammock camping working for me in terms of comfortable sleep (so far has its pros and cons), I'd like to experience insulating with a down underquilt without committing hundreds of dollars for a specialty item.

For instance, is there any major problem with just stacking two of these throws, sewing channels on them and threading some shock cord through them, adding cord locks, and find that it will be good enough? I can see how the "inner" layer may get a little bunched up due to the curvature, but would it likely be significant or noticeable? Or even problematic? I'm not trying to make a commercial-quality design.

I'd like to keep it simple both in terms of my time and $$ invested, and hold out a chance that the process can be undone if the experiment fails to meet my needs. If it works for me, great. If not, well, I'm only out $40 plus ribbon, shock cord, and a bit of time. And maybe not even anything, if the materials can be salvaged.

I've used a sewing machine once in my life, many years ago. I'll have to get out the manual again and get some help from my wife (to the extent she can remember how to use one).

Hey cspan,

You have some treasonable points and concerns if you're not sure about hammock camping. You've mentioned pros and cons. I noticed you've been a meme be since 2014, so either you haven't gotten out much in a hammock since you've joined, or maybe haven't found a setup you like. If it is the former, playing and laying will help tell the story. If it's the latter, I noticed you use a skeeter beeter, and though I've not used it personally, I would think that hammock is too small for me to get comfortable in. For a cheap entry with a very decent hammock, try a Dutch hammock. Worst case is you sell it for 5 bucks less than you bought it for....

**cspan37421** · 11-19-2015, 10:45

Treasonable? Wow, I'm going to have to watch out for the feds.

just kidding ... anyway, thanks for the advice ... in this thread I'm primarily interested in responses to my questions about making a double-layer Costco down throw underquilt.

That said, the SBP is actually a fairly sizeable hammock, listed at 10.5 feet long*. It may be too small for you, but at 6'1" it is fine for me, length wise. It is true that I have not hung much and so my impressions are tentative. But so far I've felt that a) lying at an angle to flatten out the lay only helps a little and is tricky with a pad, b) laying with my feet a little elevated results in them falling asleep, c) laying with my head more elevated (to alleviate the previous problem) results in some lower back discomfort - kind of a spinal compression feeling. All that said, I do like the fact that hammocking is easier than ground dwelling on my hips and shoulders for side sleeping. [I can't sleep on my back, and prefer my stomach]. So far it's a mixed bag, if you'll pardon the pun.

I think you're a little optimistic about what used gear can sell for, at least in my local market. I can't think of anyone who would not shell out $5 more to get new gear versus used. [Unless it was super cheap like the $15, 9.5' long* GT Ultralight that I also have. I can see someone paying $10 for that.]

* that's probably nominal - before gathering the ends.

**bser272** · 11-19-2015, 10:49

Originally Posted by cspan37421

... and still have an effective UQ design with the costco throws? I already own two of them, but do not have an underquilt. Since I'm not wholly sold yet on hammock camping working for me in terms of comfortable sleep (so far has its pros and cons), I'd like to experience insulating with a down underquilt without committing hundreds of dollars for a specialty item.

Can't say with certainty. Do you have the ability to hang indoors? Maybe give it a try with a window open and see how well you fare.

For instance, is there any major problem with just stacking two of these throws, sewing channels on them and threading some shock cord through them, adding cord locks, and find that it will be good enough? I can see how the "inner" layer may get a little bunched up due to the curvature, but would it likely be significant or noticeable? Or even problematic? I'm not trying to make a commercial-quality design.

It won't be perfect, but stacking two quilts will help combat heat loss due to the sewn threw design.

I'd like to keep it simple both in terms of my time and $$ invested, and hold out a chance that the process can be undone if the experiment fails to meet my needs. If it works for me, great. If not, well, I'm only out $40 plus ribbon, shock cord, and a bit of time. And maybe not even anything, if the materials can be salvaged.

Did you buy the throws for this purpose? If so, I say go the distance and construct them as best you can to ensure the best possible insulation. If not, then you're really only out the cost of grosgrain, thread and shock cord.

I've used a sewing machine once in my life, many years ago. I'll have to get out the manual again and get some help from my wife (to the extent she can remember how to use one).

Hey, this was my first time using a sewing machine.. if I can do it, anybody can!

While I love the idea of removing some of the stitching to concentrate the down more in some channels for more loft in a smaller area (while still covering shoulders), is there not a risk that the down in those channels will either migrate away from the shoulders (for channels going perpendicular to the length of the hammock) or away from the head and foot end (for channels running parallel to the length of the hammock)?

I suppose, although aren't most quilts designed with channels of some sort? I don't think the down would migrate all that much once fluffed up.

That's why my initial bias is just to keep the sewn through squares. Obviously, to the extent that the quilts come too wide, I'd rather remove superfluous rows and redistribute the down to the others. But it's hard to do that and keep the squares, and I think the squares are necessary to keep the down from settling unevenly in the remaining quilt area.

The two reasons I removed the squares were to free down trapped in the stitching and to increase loft. I haven't noticed any significant movement of the down once I fluff it up. The real downside is the sewn threw stitching, and by removing half of the seams, you are essentially removing half of the problem.

Give it a shot. Start with your original plan, and if that doesn't work, start modifying until it does. Worst case you are out a few bucks and a couple hours of your time. Best case you have some new quilts that allow you to better enjoy your hammock. For me, its more of the hobby aspect to tinker, so even if it doesn't work out, its a no-lose situation.

Good Luck!

**cspan37421** · 11-19-2015, 12:10

bser272, thanks for the reply. I did buy them with the notion of making them into an underquilt. First I wanted to see how I'd do with a pad only, and while it was fine, it definitely can be tricky to readjust those once you're already in. By morning I did have some condensation in the grooves of my Ridgerest, though I didn't realize it at the time ... only when I brought stuff inside to dry out.

No, I can't hang indoors ... and I don't see that situation changing. You make a good point about removing the stitching to free up trapped down, and it's good to hear the stuff does not migrate as I might fear it would. So your 60x45 - it looks like your channels run perpendicular to the hammock length, so that IF the down were to move, you'd lose it at shoulders, not head/foot, right? But you said it does not happen. Obviously that would be desirable. I note that the ENO blaze has the baffles running with the length. My guess is that I may prefer to keep the 70 length, narrow the 60 to maybe 50. The last few inches by my feet (I'm 73" tall) could be handled by a square of CCF and/or a jacket wrapped around the foot end, a la Shug. How come you decided to forgo the longer side and have a shorter quilt? Obviously that gives you more loft, but is it not as necessary to have the foot end covered by the quilt? My feet get cold, I'd think I'd want the full length.

**bser272** · 11-19-2015, 12:21

Originally Posted by cspan37421

So your 60x45 - it looks like your channels run perpendicular to the hammock length, so that IF the down were to move, you'd lose it at shoulders, not head/foot, right?

Correct. it would migrate down to the bottom from the sides, if at all.

I note that the ENO blaze has the baffles running with the length. My guess is that I may prefer to keep the 70 length, narrow the 60 to maybe 50. The last few inches by my feet (I'm 73" tall) could be handled by a square of CCF and/or a jacket wrapped around the foot end, a la Shug. How come you decided to forgo the longer side and have a shorter quilt? Obviously that gives you more loft, but is it not as necessary to have the foot end covered by the quilt? My feet get cold, I'd think I'd want the full length.

I put a small inflatable sit pad (like Shug) into the footbox of my topquilt. That takes care of my feet and ankles. The quilt covers the rest up to just above my shoulders. Like you said, the benefits are more loft and less weight & smaller size.

**pinballwizard** · 11-19-2015, 20:50

Originally Posted by cspan37421

Treasonable? Wow, I'm going to have to watch out for the feds.

just kidding ... anyway, thanks for the advice ... in this thread I'm primarily interested in responses to my questions about making a double-layer Costco down throw underquilt.

That said, the SBP is actually a fairly sizeable hammock, listed at 10.5 feet long*. It may be too small for you, but at 6'1" it is fine for me, length wise. It is true that I have not hung much and so my impressions are tentative. But so far I've felt that a) lying at an angle to flatten out the lay only helps a little and is tricky with a pad, b) laying with my feet a little elevated results in them falling asleep, c) laying with my head more elevated (to alleviate the previous problem) results in some lower back discomfort - kind of a spinal compression feeling. All that said, I do like the fact that hammocking is easier than ground dwelling on my hips and shoulders for side sleeping. [I can't sleep on my back, and prefer my stomach]. So far it's a mixed bag, if you'll pardon the pun.

I think you're a little optimistic about what used gear can sell for, at least in my local market. I can't think of anyone who would not shell out $5 more to get new gear versus used. [Unless it was super cheap like the $15, 9.5' long* GT Ultralight that I also have. I can see someone paying $10 for that.]

* that's probably nominal - before gathering the ends.

I meant for the last post to just be a first thought/question about comfort, but I intended to address your quilt questions. That's why I left the last post with many periods at the end. Work had me running from the last post I made until just a bit ago, so sorry for the broken reply.

As to your quilt - bser did a great job of answering, so sorry if I get repetitive.

FIrst and easiest, the baffling: Some will swear by vertical and others horizontal. I don't think there is one way that keeps you burning hot and the other that freezes you out of your hammock. Ask some vendors and they will say that vertical baffles allow the heat to go through your WHOLE body from your head to your feet. JRB will say that horizontal baffles put the down right where you want it and avoid CBS better, as well as not having wasted baffles near/above the shoulders, hips, and legs. Is anyone right? idunno, but I do believe that I like having baffles over sewn through boxes. I find it much more lofty (like bser said) by removing the stitches in one direction for the 3 reasons of a lot of down is trapped by the stitches, we moved down and removed some fabric (so same overall down but more condensed in an area), and not as constricted to the small boxes. As to your question about shifting, not only is this not a problem, but I think that can only do more help than hurt. Believe me, the down isn't moving much in these. especially bc these don't have differential cut baffles, so there's not an abundance of fabric just waiting for more down to fill the chamber. But a lofty bottom can only do good for a warm sleep. I agree, this was more work, but not as much as you would think.

As far as layering, that's EXACTLY what I did last weekend, and it was in the low 30's. I folded up a throw and layered it between the hammock and UQ and was amazed at how well it stayed in place, as well as how LOFTY it was. I was toasty. I have plans to add snaps to the 4 corners of the layered throw, so it stays in the shape I want, and then I want to add some small velcro to 4-6 places on the folded throw and UQ, so it stays in place. This will make it easier, more effective, and give me piece of mind when I am moving around. I figure that will keep my second throw a throw, which can be used as an insert better.

As to shape and length: I went with 3/4 for 2 reasons. One, by itself, this quilt is a good late spring/summer/early fall quilt, so I didn't want the weight or bulk of full length, and I may not even need the insulation at my feet, depending on the weather. I too used a sit pad, or a small piece of foam. EIther will keep you warm, and if it's just the legs it's very manageable without condensation; it's different than using a pad as your main insulation completely. I also think that by going 3/4, I am putting the down where it most matters, and not wasting it in areas it doesn't. I have a full length 0 incubator, but there is so much down there in every spot.

However, it sounds like you want to go full length. I have a SHORT full length design idea that uses 2 throws, which doesn't require too much in the means of sewing/cutting/ripping. Take 2 throws, sew together along the long sides, making an area of 70 by 120. Fold the 120 into thirds, offsetting the layers, with your inner layer 39, middle 40, outer 41. or 39.5, 40, 40.5.... Anyway, sew your channels, add whatever else you want such as secondary suspension or draft tubes, and you have a quilt that will be 70 by 40ish, with a differential cut of sorts. Removing baffles or not is up to you. If you did, you could go in either direction because you're not opening the quilt and cutting off fabric, but again, you can skip this step.
Hope I addressed all your questions. Sorry for the book. I am VERY new to DIY sewing too, and I also found this a very doable project. The part I found the hardest was sewing the grosgrain channels (especially the sides where I used 7/8in for head/foot channels). Take your time and make sure you don't bunch up your fabric underneath. But I don't want to scare you off of this because this was very manageable and rewarding. Well worth the time, effort, and minimal money into it.

**jscudds** · 11-29-2015, 10:47

Originally Posted by pinballwizard

However, it sounds like you want to go full length. I have a SHORT full length design idea that uses 2 throws, which doesn't require too much in the means of sewing/cutting/ripping. Take 2 throws, sew together along the long sides, making an area of 70 by 120. Fold the 120 into thirds, offsetting the layers, with your inner layer 39, middle 40, outer 41. or 39.5, 40, 40.5.... Anyway, sew your channels, add whatever else you want such as secondary suspension or draft tubes, and you have a quilt that will be 70 by 40ish, with a differential cut of sorts. Removing baffles or not is up to you. If you did, you could go in either direction because you're not opening the quilt and cutting off fabric, but again, you can skip this step.
Hope I addressed all your questions. Sorry for the book. I am VERY new to DIY sewing too, and I also found this a very doable project. The part I found the hardest was sewing the grosgrain channels (especially the sides where I used 7/8in for head/foot channels). Take your time and make sure you don't bunch up your fabric underneath. But I don't want to scare you off of this because this was very manageable and rewarding. Well worth the time, effort, and minimal money into it.

Thanks for your detailed posts, can you describe how you made the grosgrain channels?

**pinballwizard** · 12-01-2015, 22:48

Originally Posted by jscudds

Thanks for your detailed posts, can you describe how you made the grosgrain channels?

I did it prob the way others would say is the WRONG way, i'm guessing. What I did was fold and pin the channels, with the shock chord inside (to ensure there was enough of a channel) and then sew it all together that way. Two things I would do differently:
First, if I were to sew it in this manner again, I would iron the folded grosgrain, to ensure it is folded in half well. that way, when I pin it, I would know that both halves are even, which matters when sewing, to ensure I'm sewing both sides...
However, another way I would consider is to sew one half of the grosgrain, fold, and sew other half. Either way, I would iron grosgrain to make sure it's folded right....