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  1. #1

    Attaching a integrated bug net to a double layer

    I am making a double layer hammock and i am wondering do you attach the zipper to the inner or outer layer?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Boston's Avatar
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    Inner layer generally.

  3. #3
    hutzelbein's Avatar
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    I would follow the example of Warbonnet and Dream Hammock and attach the zipper to the outer layer. But I think Hennessy attaches the zipper to the inner layer. I don't like that, though, because I can't access the pad (e.g. the valve of a self-inflating pad to let out a bit air, or to adjust the position of the pad a bit) when lying in the hammock. But I guess it's matter of taste.

  4. #4
    Senior Member SimonMc's Avatar
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    I think attaching it to the outer layer is preferable.

  5. #5
    Senior Member xxl_hanger's Avatar
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    I never thought about it that the zipper could be attached to the inner layer too. It was also clear to me that the zipper should be attached on the inside of the hammock (between the two layers). What me bothers more is the question how to attach the zipper in the best manner. There are several solutions. Up to now I did it as follows. First I sewed rolled hems on both long sides (same on the inner layer whereas the rolled hems where made on the inside of both layers facing each other) and sewed the channels on the hammock ends next before I attached an endless zipper to the outer layer. This way the zipper was not integrated in the channels and a total of three stitch lines was visible on the outside of my hammock. One stitch line for the rolled hem and two for attaching the zipper tape. At the places where the two layers were sewn together a fourth stitch line was visible. I wonder how I could do it better and test the hammock first before I attach the zipper with bug net.
    Last edited by xxl_hanger; 05-20-2016 at 17:15.

  6. #6
    jcksparow's Avatar
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    I've no complaints to report from attaching the zipper to the inner layer. True, you cannot adjust the pad from inside unless you unzip the bug netting near the opening, but I've never had the need to adjust the pad from within the hammock. Once you get it initially situated between the two layers, they seem to hold it in place pretty nicely. I highly recommend Xtrekker's bug net tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4PPMPWDH4U).
    "Now and then we had a hope that if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates." -Mark Twain

  7. #7
    Senior Member Snowball's Avatar
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    I would most likely do it like this. The zipper itself will in most cases give a good strong edge so there is no need for a hem. It won’t be easy to use one long zipper (in the end) but I think it could be done. If you want to use one long zipper I think you have to do the head end channel first. It wont be easy after.
    Remember when there is an opening for the pad the fabric can be inverted, could also be in the ends.
    In the pad opening (inner layer) do a single hem not rolled. The raw edge will not be visible because its between the layers. It will be a bit tricky in the ends the last inch or so but it doesn’t matter.
    If for some reason you want a stronger edge you could make a rolled hem first and use this method afterwards.
    DL hammock w. zipper.png
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Snowball's Avatar
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    I made a small scale sew test. I think i have to make one.

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  9. #9
    Senior Member xxl_hanger's Avatar
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    There are a lot of ways how it can be done. I made my first DL hammock more or less like Xtrekker explained in his videos with a few alterations.

    I have pad openings on both sides of my hammock. Therefore I sewed both hammock sides like Xtrekker on his pad opening side. My hammock channels are about 3" wide because I used Papasmurf's suspension and whipping method. However, I sewed the hammock ends together just like Xtrekker. There I have also small openings for the suspension which I don't need. Next time I will sew the zipper triangles about 1-2" closer to the hammock ends. At the head end of my hammock I have two triangles. One triangle hides the zipper and the other one below it is a bit shorter with a parabola cut on one side. There is the long endless zipper attached at head end. Both outer zipper triangles have a bungee cord channel on one side.

    I looked up again how I attached my zipper. I have 3 stitch lines on the outside of the bottom layer. One for the rolled hem, one for attaching the zipper to the outer layer and one for sewing the two layers together (directly on the zipper tape).

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowball View Post
    The zipper itself will in most cases give a good strong edge so there is no need for a hem.
    The main reason why I used a rolled hem was to stop fabric fraying at the edges and because I really found no other solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowball View Post
    It won’t be easy to use one long zipper (in the end) but I think it could be done. If you want to use one long zipper I think you have to do the head end channel first. It wont be easy after.
    This is my main problem. I would like to integrate the zipper tapes on both ends of the hammock into the whipping. I think I will not find an appropriate solution for one zipper on both hammock sides. I would get either a narrow zipper corner or it would result in a lot of fiddly work (with an endless zipper, other zippers for a 11ft hammock are too expensive for me). Best and cheapest solution is most likely to have a zipper triangle at least on one end of the hammock and use Papasmurf's zipper carousel. Since the zipper tape is not weight bearing this should always work. I expect problems only when I use the hammock in chair mode and sit on the zipper or close at it. I think this is the main reason why warbonnetguy uses edge binding loops. To be on the safe side I sewed similar grosgrain loops into my hammock ends too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowball View Post
    Remember when there is an opening for the pad the fabric can be inverted, could also be in the ends.
    Pad openings in the ends? This would mean that you have a SL with attached pad layer, but no true DL?

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowball View Post
    In the pad opening (inner layer) do a single hem not rolled. The raw edge will not be visible because its between the layers. It will be a bit tricky in the ends the last inch or so but it doesn’t matter.
    This way u save a bit fabric width or it is necessary in order to get the same width than the outer layer. I see no other reason why I should do this. My next hammock will be a 67.7" wide SL and there is no need for me to think about the inner layer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowball View Post
    If for some reason you want a stronger edge you could make a rolled hem first and use this method afterwards.
    DL hammock w. zipper.png
    This looks complicated but would certainly work. You could also invert the zipper. I already thought about a similar solution, i.e. how I could attach the zipper just like Ramblinrev explained it in this video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LO52zGiwzMI
    I still want to find out too how Papasmurf makes his nice stitch lines along the zipper. I think one can see it on the following picture how it is done. His total seam allowance on both sides is 1.5" (0.75" per zipper side).
    http://theultimatehang.com/wp-conten...ner-zipper.jpg

    There is another reason why I will most likely have a rolled hem on the hammock body again: Before I attach the bugnet and the zipper I have somehow to find out where the tie-outs should be (i.e. the channels, the ridgeline and the suspension should already be ready to hang). As soon as I know this I can figure the parallelogram dimensions of my bug net with math only.

    The zipper solution is still the hardest decision for me. The expected problems stopped me to try it with a WBB xlc clone and now I have nothing else in mind than to improve my own solution with an extra wide SL a bit.
    Last edited by xxl_hanger; 05-22-2016 at 21:41.

  10. #10
    Thank you for the feedback I am going to attach the zipper to the inside layer because if the bugnet does pull the fabric up i want it to pull the inside layer ( in the space where the pad will be inserted i can only attach it to one layer) and it will look nicer from the outside

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