Semi-Gathered Bridge in 8 steps

[dblhmmck]

As promised, my multi-pole bridge hammock spreader bar sockets. The original design was from Hangnout.

Materials needed for 4 sockets:
1. (1) .742 pole INSERT from QuestOutfitters
2. A scrap (less than 1-1/2") of .742 pole also from QuestOutfitters
3. Glue - Cyanoacrylic (Crazy Glue) or Polyurethane Gorilla glue

Tools needed:
1. Pipe cutter or saw
2. 5/8" drill bit
3. 11/64" drill bit
4. Lathe or Drill press. I really doubt you can bore the tubing with a hand drill
5. Sandpaper

Instructions:
1. Make 4 slices of "insert" 5/8" long
2. Make 4 slices of .742 tubing 5/16" long
3. Dress (sand and smooth) one end of the .742 tubing slices
4. Glue one of each type together with the end flush at one end and the dressed end in the middle.
5. Carefully, and I do mean carefully, drill out the inside of the insert end about 1/2 way with the 5/8" drill. Less is better than more
6. Drill a 11/64" hole through both layers of tubing. Be careful to leave some material on both sides of the .742 (black) tubing
7. Sand all cuts smooth and sand out the bore if needed to allow a .625 pole to slide in.

4 sockets weigh just under 12 GRAMS. .625 poles (most common spreader poles) fit inside the socket. .742 poles fit over the socket. The NoGround top screw goes through the socket. Finally if you carry a 2-3/16" length (or greater) of extra .742 pole you can even use them with the insert end of a .742 pole.

Enjoy.

Attachment 132659Attachment 132660

Thanks Rekoob, and I agree about the great addition!

Once again, I am very impressed with raftingtigger's metal fabrication skills! You didn't publish the weight , but from what I understand these sockets are about half the weight of Dutch's titanium end-set. And about half the weight of Hangnouts hardware. His model weighed 24.8 grams for the set.

I do wonder how smooth the outside edges of the cylinders feel. Maybe a little coating of Plasti-dip or something like that might soften the edges further, if needed.

[raftingtigger]

Ask and you shall receive. Weight before the plastic protectors was 11.9 grams. I put on a cut down 3/4" plastic leg tip that I got at OSH this morning. It covers the black part of the socket and should have a hole drilled to match the suspension holes. I'll post pictures when I can get the forum (or my computer) to not give me an error. The tips come in both black and white, so color coding the hammock ends is easy.

Maybe Dblhmmck can post the pic I sent to him.

[dblhmmck]

Ask and you shall receive. Weight before the plastic protectors was 11.9 grams. I put on a cut down 3/4" plastic leg tip that I got at OSH this morning. It covers the black part of the socket and should have a hole drilled to match the suspension holes. I'll post pictures when I can get the forum (or my computer) to not give me an error. The tips come in both black and white, so color coding the hammock ends is easy.

Maybe Dblhmmck can post the pic I sent to him.

OK, here we go.
Bridge socket end protectors.jpg
I see, these are like protective covers for chair legs. And you plan to trim them down to fit and drill through them for the Amsteel suspension. It looks like a really good solution to keep our cuben tarps protected.

[dblhmmck]

That sounds good about hiding the tag end by sewing it inside the fabric. I like to make my loops as small as possible, since excess loops will cause the spreader bar to be less effective. But by calculating where the rolled kevlar will end up relative to the edge of your fabric on the hammock body, you gain the advantage of better construction and prevented fraying. Score 1 point for the mathematically inclined!

There is an advantage to sewing the loops afterwards that I forgot to mention when Iwrote that post. I pin the loops were I think they should go, then I attach the Amsteel suspension. I put the head end suspension on a hook, and pull the two equal ends of Amsteel towards me. I make sure the loops are equal distance. Then sew the loops. Raftingtiggers method is better if the mule tape exits the hammock body at exactly equal points. So a little planning and careful sewing will allow you to use the attachment method with the mule tape strap encased in fabric.

I also noticed from the construction photos that Raftingtigger used a longer stitch when doing the bar tacks. That makes a lot of sense with the loose weave of the kevlar mule tape. So that there is less thread running parallel with the long warp strands.

[raftingtigger]

OK, here we go.
Bridge socket end protectors.jpg
I see, these are like protective covers for chair legs. And you plan to trim them down to fit and drill through them for the Amsteel suspension. It looks like a really good solution to keep our cuben tarps protected.

Remove "like" and you have it. DIY through repurposing.

[dblhmmck]

Remove "like" and you have it. DIY through repurposing.

OK then
I guess I will be the first customer. Order for two sets of bridge sockets placed!

[dblhmmck]

I found somebody to model in the hammock. It helps to show what is going on with the bug curtains. He is about my height, 5' 10" and about 20 pounds heavier than me at 170.
bug_curtains_open.jpgbug_curtain_hook.jpgbug_curtain_half_open.JPGbug_curtain _elastic_loop_head.JPG
I added a few things to my bug curtains to reenforce, and to make them more conveniently tucked away when they are in an open position.

For reenforcement, I added two Lash-it lines at the foot end, which will prevent the bug curtains from being over stretched.
bug_curtains_lash-it_ Foot.JPG
For holding the bug curtains open, I added two shock cord loops with two opposing toggles. These curtain tiebacks were placed 22" from the foot spreader. Attempting to gather the fabric any closer to the foot of the hammock. puts too much tension on the netting. I lengthened the shock cord loops at the head end. Now they hold the curtains closed with less tension, but still adequate.
bug_curtain_pullback_sides.JPGelastic_loops_For_bug_curtain.JPG


Of course these changes added to the weight, but less than a half ounce more. Here the weight has increased to 13.87 ounces. But since we all have suspensions of different weights, here is the weight of the SGB without the treestraps; 11.775 ounces.
weight_with_mods.JPGweight_no_straps.JPG

[Rekoob]

Dang, between this thread and the No Ground thread I can't keep up!

You guys are something else. Bravo!

[dblhmmck]

Dang, between this thread and the No Ground thread I can't keep up!

You guys are something else. Bravo!

Many thanks, Rekoob!

1. First cut your pieces from 3 yards of netting.

2. All four sided polygon pieces get grosgrain sewn along their longest side (only). The smaller foot trapezoid gets grosgrain sewn to one side of it's long end only. This piece of grosgrain gets sewn closed later.

3. Sew the long ovals to the sides of the curtain polygons. Sew it to the side marked 72" on the diagram, not to the longest sides of the curtain polygons.

4. Hem your trapezoids. Sew your trapezoids into both ends of the hammock. But stop a couple inches short of the grosgrain edge. The foot end trapezoid gets sewn in with the grosgrain sewn to the top edge. And the unfinished edge faces downwards.

5. Hem the outside edges of the ovals. Sew the curtain pieces to the lateral arcs along the exposed side of the long ovals. Extend all the way up past the head end spreader bar by about an inch. CAUTION: especially if working with the .5 nanoseum. It is easy for the netting to get stretched inconsistently along the arcs. Pin first and go slow. Full disclose: my curtains were off by an inch on one side. I used only 5 pins per side, next time I will use more.

6. Hem the bottom edges of the curtains. Sew the bottom of the curtains onto the grosgrain of the foot trapezoid. This is why the grosgrain was sewn to only one side of that trapezoid, Capture the ends of the curtains inside the grosgrain and sew closed. The curtains should overlap in the center of the long trapezoid edge, by about 4".

7. Then sew the corners of the grosgrain that were left unfinished by 2" prior. So now the far end should be fully enclosed. Pull the curtains towards the head, and make a mark on the grosgrain, where it meets the top corner of the head trapezoid on the opposite side of where the curtain originated. Get in the hammock and extend the curtains up again. Verify that the mark you made is still accurate when occupied. If not adjust the mark for the occupied position.

8. Bar tack a piece of lash-it to the bottom inside corners of each curtain. Attach the other end to the Amsteel where it meets the foot end gather. This is to prevent the curtains from being over stretched.
bug_curtains_lash-it_ Foot.JPG
9. Then at the head end, trim your two curtains from 2" below the mark you made in step #7, across to 2" above the top of the stitching, that extends an inch above the spreader bars.

10. Hem the tops of the curtains. And fold over a small channel. The channel gets fitted with shock cord. I used 3/32" in diameter.

11. Create shock cord loops that extend about 3" into the hammock. I used 1/8" shock cord for this. They are anchored to the Amsteel where it meets the head end gather. And slip it through the upper trapezoid corners to the interior of the hammock.
elastic_loops_For_bug_curtain.JPG
12. Sew a mitten hook to the top corners of your two curtains. These will attach to the loops that you made in step #11 above.
bug_curtain_hook.jpg
13. Then sew down the remaining two inches of the head end trapezoid. Measure the attachment point with your spreader bar in place. The grosgrain at the leading edge of the head polygon should be snug with the spreader bar inserted. That way it is making a seal when the curtains are closed.

14. Measure 22" up from the foot end spreaders. Bar tack lash-it loops one inch long that contain a toggle, to the outside edge along the two lateral arcs.

15. On the inside arc, just above the other bar tack, sew on some shock cord, to form a loop that will go over the toggle. I used 1/8" shock cord for this.
bug_curtain_pullback_sides.JPG
16 extend the curtain towards the outer edge of the head end spreader bar in an open position. Make a loop of shock cord at each end of the head spreader bar. I used 3/32" shock cord. The length of my loops when unstretched is 3 1/2". But that may vary for some of you. The intent is to hold the bug net out of the way when not needed. But I try not to stretch the netting too much. Sitting on the edge with the bug curtain in the held open position, is where the fabric tension will be greatest. Gently test this to make sure you have enough give. NOTE: I made my loops longer after this photo below was taken.
bug_curtain _elastic_loop_head.JPG

That's it! For just a few ounces, you have a full bug net curtain set which stays out of the way when not needed.

[raftingtigger]

Dang, between this thread and the No Ground thread I can't keep up!

You guys are something else. Bravo!

Thanks Rekoob. Not to derail Dblhmmck's thread, but I believe I have the truss line slippage issue resolved. More on the NG thread.