Here are the updated measurements.curtain_plans.jpg
Here are the updated measurements.curtain_plans.jpg
I've made another SGB with the brown Hyper D 1.6 fabric, and I really like the color. It looks like milk chocolate. I used the .67 bug net from RSBTR, and I found it to be so much easier than working with the .5 nanoseum.
brown_SGB.JPG
I did one thing differently to simplify the design. I used the same fabric as the hammock body for the trapezoid at the foot end.
solid_footbox.JPG Previously, this had been part of the netting. But I eliminated the grosgrain that was attached to the foot trapezoid. And I removed the lash-it reinforcements that went to the distal corners at the foot.
There was only a very slight weight increase for using the heavier bug net. Still under 12 ounces for the SGB hammock with netting.
solid_footbox_weight.JPG
I am currently working on another version of this bug net design. One of the bigger challenges with this style, is the tension of the fabric when it is being stowed away. Sitting at the edge of the hammock stretches the netting material. That is why I have made the toggle that gathers the netting, 22" up from the spread bar. But I am working on other ways to reduce the amount that the net is getting stretched. I should have the new version completed soon.
The solid trapezoid at the end also makes a good shelf. I haven't gotten my bug net on yet, but I do have head and foot shelves. It was really nice to have a place for my water bottle and book (aka cell phone) to rest.
A couple of quick pics of the SGB in use.
Drysuit hang 1.jpgDrysuit hang 2.jpgIMG_20160710_075342401.jpg
Come check out the Tensa4 tensahedron stand and other hammock stands at http://www.TensaOutdoor.com and [email protected]
I am glad that you like it, Rekoob!
I thought that the design was finished when I posted here. But seeing other people try the design, has made me realize that a couple of things could be tweaked, to dial in the comfort for the individual. And to make stowing away the netting more safe and care-free for the netting.
The head end cut of the material gives my head support when the Lash-it that holds the gather is a little loose. But I have found that I can change the cut of the fabric to affect head support also. The material cut is the coarse adjustment, and the lash-it provides the fine adjustment.
Instead of cutting the corners at the head end 8" down from the top. I have made a hammock where the cut corners are 10" and one where they are 12". At 12", the lash-it had to be strung as tight as possible to make my head feel level and supported. I am liking the 10" cut for myself. If it feels too flat, I can cinch up the slack in the Lash-it, that attaches to the apex. I guess if you like a thick pillow, stay with the design as it is. But if you like a thin pillow, the 10" cuts emulate that. And the deeper cuts give a little bit more elbow room around the head also. Changing these cuts will extend the length of Lash-it that is needed. Start out with a 7 foot piece of Lash-it at the head end, not a 5 foot piece like the original instructions call for. And use knots that can be untied, in case you want to add the pouch later.
I will have a new bug net to show you guys soon.
I have made changes to the bug net. One nice thing about bridge hammocks, is that they have four corners that you can use to attach to. The even nicer thing about an SGB, is that you have four additional attachment points for a total of eight. The four extra ones are located at the corners of the trapezoids. By stretching bug net between these attachment points, the overlapping curtain design can be used. By attaching the net to these lower points, it eases the netting fabric relative to the sewn in trapezoid method at the feet.
foot_closed.JPG
I decided that I needed to have two toggles on each side, previously I was using one. Adding the extra toggle per side ensures that the fabric is not hanging loosely when it is not being used as a bug net.
foot_tieback.JPGhead_tieback.JPG
It is possible to sit on the bug net when entering the hammock if it is left loose, and that could tear it. But by using two sets of toggles, and also attaching the curtain hook to the elastic loop at the NEAR side, the bug net is neatly stowed away. It eases the netting fabric relative to how I was attaching the curtain hook at the spreader end points. The bonus with this method, is that the net now can serve as saddle bags. In this photo, I have a hat, pair of socks, and a headlamp in the saddle bag.
saddle_bag.jpg When using the net in bug net mode, both toggles must be undone first. And the curtain hooks attach to the elastic loops on the FAR side.
attach_far.JPG
I made this SGB out of the 1.0 Robic fabric from RSBTR. Amazingly this full featured hammock weighs less than 9 3/4 ounces!
robic_SGB_weight.JPGSGB_robic.jpg
Perhaps you can see that the head end is blunter than the previous SGBs that I have made. And the opening of the pouch is wider. This had the 12" triangles taken from each upper corner of the head end, whereas the original plans remove just 8". The hammock weighed 6 ounces before the bug net. The entire bug net weighs less than 3 3/4 ounces!
Last edited by dblhmmck; 07-19-2016 at 20:57.
I have made a couple more SGB hammocks, and have ordered fabric for a few more. Concerning the materials, I am having much better results with the .67 Nanoseum mesh than the .5 ounce for the bug net. Easier to sew, and noticeably more durable . I am going to try a couple different fabrics for the hammock body also, to compare comfort, support, and durability. Although, I may have mentioned some of these changes in earlier posts, here is a summary of the changes since the OP.
I have made some changes to the construction of the hammock beyond the spreader bars. Basically enclosing the Amsteel, and doing away with the four small pieces of mule tape at the trapezoid corners. Also, I have changed the corner cut outs at the head end of the fabric from 8" deep to 10" deep. This was done to flatten the fabric under the head for more comfortable side sleeping. I have made the storage pouch a little wider on the X axis and slightly shorter on the Y axis. This s is to adjust for the deeper cuts at the head end of the fabric, while keeping the volume of the storage pouch close to the same.
I have done some brief testing of the new multi-sockets from raftingtigger. I see them as a definite improvement over what is being used in the industry. They are secure, light weight, and safer for our tarps. They are also priced inexpensively, and work with three different pole diameters. Read about the NG poles and their sockets here.
I have refined the bug net design to relieve fabric tension, and to gain storage functionality. I am suggesting a maximum limit of 200 ponds for SGB users with this bug net curtain design. This is due to the small enclosure of the bug net. The spreader bar limit with the bug net curtains is 36". Any wider will make the storage pouch harder to access, and will put the bug curtains too close to the face.
If anybody is making one of these, please post in this thread to get the most current updates on this hammock and bug net design.
Do you think this design can be scaled up to handle about 300 lbs? I am 6'7" @280 lbs and have been following this in the hopes of making something I could use...
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God has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand tempests and floods. But he cannot save them from fools. --John Muir
Thank-you for your interest, gfranxman. Well, there are a few things that I would do differently for somebody your size.
1. First use a heavier fabric or construct it as a double layer.
2. Use thicker straps with a tighter weave for your lateral arcs.
3. Use a different bug net.
The bug net curtains are not going to work for you. But you could make a zippered bug net like I did in post #21
The fact that you are very tall for your weight, has both advantages and disadvantages. The longer you go, the harder it is to get the lift in the center of the hammock. I think your idea to scale up the fabric width is a good one. The fabric of the SGB hammock body is close to the width of a RR, just a little wider. So if you can get comfortable in a RR, I think you could get comfortable in a SGB. Still, I would try increasing overall width two inches and make your lateral cuts a half inch deeper per side. The 108" fabric length needs to be increased by 9" in the lateral arcs, giving a total of 117". I think it might work pretty well with a 38" spreader bar.
This is only my best guess, and outside of the range of my experience. I am sorry that I can't advise you any better than this with what I know now. However, I hope to hear something from a couple folks in the 180 pound range, which might give additional insight.
Last edited by dblhmmck; 08-04-2016 at 19:39.
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