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  1. #1
    New Member ekitel's Avatar
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    How much Amsteel to buy?

    Let's say I want to make one set of whoopie slings or UCRs and have some left over in case I'm forced to use trees that are too far apart. How much do I need? It's cheap and I could just get a lot but I'm shipping it overseas and don't want to have much more than I would want to carry with me when I go camping.

    I'm going to use 1/8" for suspension. I was thinking of getting some 7/64 for a tarp ridge line. How much would I need there?

  2. #2
    opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ekitel View Post
    Let's say I want to make one set of whoopie slings or UCRs and have some left over in case I'm forced to use trees that are too far apart. How much do I need? It's cheap and I could just get a lot but I'm shipping it overseas and don't want to have much more than I would want to carry with me when I go camping.

    I'm going to use 1/8" for suspension. I was thinking of getting some 7/64 for a tarp ridge line. How much would I need there?
    Depends on the length you are after.

    Generally, you double the finished length, + 1 foot for buries and such. I use 13 feet in a 6' sling with a 4" fixed eye. I use 17 feet in an 8 foot sling and 21 feet in a 10 foot sling.

    For the tarp ridgeline... Take the ridgeline of the tarp and add a couple feet on either end. The Amsteel is overkill for that, though. Youd probably be better off grabbing 180' of the Zing It for that. It can be had from Redden Marine for $23.XX minus 5%.
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  3. #3
    opie's Avatar
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    For an 8' UCR, You will have 8'10" in the main line, and roughly 30" for the constrictor. Give or take.

    6' would be 6'10", and again, 30" for the constrictor.

    If you want to build in a loop in the tail of the constrictor for adding some shock cord or a prusik... than add another 6-10" onto your constrictor measurement.
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  4. #4
    New Member ekitel's Avatar
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    Thanks! So 50' should be more than enough. I'm thinking of making the lines rather long and then trim later if I feel I have too much. Maybe if I can keep them spooled up then having extra long lines might not be a hassle and come in handy for less than ideal scenarios. Trees are plentiful in some places but in other areas I might have to rig one or both lines around a boulder, stone fence, abandoned building, etc... Or maybe I'd be better off with an extra length or 2 to just extend the lines?

  5. #5
    opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ekitel View Post
    Thanks! So 50' should be more than enough. I'm thinking of making the lines rather long and then trim later if I feel I have too much. Maybe if I can keep them spooled up then having extra long lines might not be a hassle and come in handy for less than ideal scenarios. Trees are plentiful in some places but in other areas I might have to rig one or both lines around a boulder, stone fence, abandoned building, etc... Or maybe I'd be better off with an extra length or 2 to just extend the lines?
    You can also make extenders with the line. Just splice fixed eyes in either end.

    Probably wouldnt hurt to carry a couple lengths of poly webbing with loops sewn in both ends as well.
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  6. #6
    New Member ekitel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    Probably wouldnt hurt to carry a couple lengths of poly webbing with loops sewn in both ends as well.
    I'll have the straps that come with the WBBB line/strap option. I plan to use them with marlin spike hitch and toggles.

    Also I haven't seen here what kind of thread do you use to stitch the splices? Is regular poly thread good? I shouldn't need to do a brummel, right? I downloaded some pdf instructions for eye loop from the Samson website that don't require a brummel and which explain the stitching very well but no indication of what kind of thread to use.

    A tip I picked up here recently is to put the bury through the line before you do the taper. I'm going to try that also.

  7. #7
    opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ekitel View Post
    I'll have the straps that come with the WBBB line/strap option. I plan to use them with marlin spike hitch and toggles.
    Sounds good.

    Quote Originally Posted by ekitel View Post
    Also I haven't seen here what kind of thread do you use to stitch the splices? Is regular poly thread good? I shouldn't need to do a brummel, right? I downloaded some pdf instructions for eye loop from the Samson website that don't require a brummel and which explain the stitching very well but no indication of what kind of thread to use.
    I used to use a strand of the line itself. But I had scraps lying around so finding it wasnt an issue. You can use regular poly sewing thread, that will work fine.

    Now... I use the locked brummel exclusively. It doesnt derate the line to the point it will effect the weight we subject the line to, and its simpler and quicker.

    Quote Originally Posted by ekitel View Post
    A tip I picked up here recently is to put the bury through the line before you do the taper. I'm going to try that also.
    That does help. Its easier to get the tapered line through the center, but it has a tendency to want to unravel. So pull it through and then taper it... Either or...
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  8. #8
    New Member ekitel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    Now... I use the locked brummel exclusively. It doesnt derate the line to the point it will effect the weight we subject the line to, and its simpler and quicker.
    Yeah locked brummel is what I meant. I thought I read in another thread here that every one was using a 'regular' stitched eye. How is the brummel quicker? Looks like about the same level of complexity. You're supposed to stitch it also, right, or is that optional with the locked brummel?

    Is it possible to put locked brummels on either end of a rope? The standing end has to go back through the tail but once you have one loop you can't pull it through again for the second loop, or can you?

  9. #9
    opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ekitel View Post
    Yeah locked brummel is what I meant. I thought I read in another thread here that every one was using a 'regular' stitched eye. How is the brummel quicker? Looks like about the same level of complexity. You're supposed to stitch it also, right, or is that optional with the locked brummel?
    No, you dont need to stitch a locked brummel. So long as you are actually doing a locked brummel.

    And in that, is where the time savings is. No stitching.

    Quote Originally Posted by ekitel View Post
    Is it possible to put locked brummels on either end of a rope? The standing end has to go back through the tail but once you have one loop you can't pull it through again for the second loop, or can you?
    Yes, it is possible. I discovered this with my most recent order. The second eye you are making is a bit more difficult.... But it is possible to get a fixed eye worked through the line.....
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  10. #10
    opie's Avatar
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    ekitel... All of my opinions are based on the fact I make these on a regular basis. For the first go round, It probably would be easier to stitch the fixed eye and skip the brummel. But once you do it once or twice.. It really is easier.

    Both will serve the same purpose, and serve it well.

    If you go with a stitched eye, and you ever need to get the eye apart, its much easier than if you do a locked brummel. When I build my fixed eyes, after the brummel is done and Im ready to bury the tail, I bury it right up to the end of the brummel. That way theres no chance of something snagging the tail and pulling it out.
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