It is most likely a little condensator in your foot pedal. Try to open your foot pedal and to renew this condensator before you buy a new foot pedal. Show pictures from the inside of your foot pedal if you need further help.
It could be that your foot pedal looks like this one:
http://www.netzingenieur.xlstatik.de/fussanlasser.htm
Last edited by xxl_hanger; 05-16-2016 at 15:40.
It's not a mechanic machine and hard to repair if you get problems. My experience with newer singer machines is bad. "The older the better" is especially true with Singer machines. I personally would not buy any Singer machine newer than a Singer 411. I love my black Singer 216G.
Homeschooling mom to 4 little ones (8 and under)... Doing my best to enjoy this stage of life
I should have added, that newer Singer machines sew not bad. The stitch quality is in almost all cases very good. The biggest problem with newer Singer machines is that almost all are hard to repair and some cheap models have predetermined breaking points. Without a service manual there is almost no chance to dismantle these machines, oil all important places or to renew one plastic gear wheel only. Newer Toyota sewing machines for example are imo much easier to repair.
The quality of Bernina machines is very good. But in almost all cases these machines need professional service (sooner or later). I have no experience to play with them and enough respect not to try it. Like Pfaff machines you can't buy them cheap (normally).
The very old post war sewing machines which I like were all still build for the eternity (all iron inside) and they were high precison sewing machines. There is normally no need to repair them. All what these machines normally need (if they were warehoused properly) is cleaning and a little oil or lubricant, sometimes a new bobbin winder rubber or V-Belt for the motor etc.
When I got it, it wouldn't stitch. It needed a cleaning. The bobbin cartridge had bits of fabric stuck in it. After a cleaning, it's been fine. No issues at all. The service manuals are available on line. The parts are all through board, not surface mount, so I'm not to worried about fixing it if I need to. That being said, I have read that there are plastic gears in some places. I have not verified this. So, I do not sew webbing or leather with it.
I got it more to check out different stitch patterns and it was cheap. For heavier stuff I use the earlier posted White or my Singer 99-13 that I haven't posted yet.
Get busy living or get busy dying
My latest (and last)...Brother LS2-B837. This thing has a HUGE bobbin - Size "U". Has a walking foot, drop feed and needle feed. Dial adjustable stitch length and reverse. Between this and my old Brother home machine, I am set. My Kenmore will be going on the chopping block shortly.
This one is not for home of course, it is going in my shop for doing light leather work, but will be moonlighting on tarps, packs, docking bags and stuff sacks.
I would like to sew my second hammock with your old sorted out Kenmore. I'm sure that your Brother industrial machine can sew 100 times faster (not 100 times better) than I can think and this would be my biggest problem. I sewed my first hammock with the handwheel of an old Meister ZZ only (now the machine is motorized!). This was hard work, but the stitch quality and precision of stitch lines was unbeatable good, at least from my "babe in the woods" point of view.
It sews way faster than I can think as well! Industrials take a bit of practice, and luckily this isn't my first.
As for the Kenmore, someone is going to get a hell of a machine. It has the 2 belt speed reduction system, all metal, and is like brand new. It was my aunt's, and I am not sure she ever used it. Hate to let it go, but it needs to find a home with someone who will put it to use!
While I wish this were totally true, I have noticed that the old electric singers, especially the potted motor ones, have wiring with a rubber/latex jacketing and insulation. The insulation is especially prone to being damaged by oil and leads to an open hot wire that you may not even see. I looked mine over while buying it and it was only when I got it home in good light that I figured out how close I came to electrocuting myself while testing it. The hot line was maybe 1/8" away from the metal frame.
I can't stress enough how people need to check the wiring and rewire if there's any fraying or cracking of jacket/insulation.
If you don't know how to rewire them, feel free to ask me.
Cheers,
Kevin
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