To get a true catenary curve, you need something as close to perfectly flexible as possible - tent poles or wood molding aren't ideal. Probably doesn't make much difference for this application, though.
To get a true catenary curve, you need something as close to perfectly flexible as possible - tent poles or wood molding aren't ideal. Probably doesn't make much difference for this application, though.
"Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson
“Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it." -Terry Pratchett
True, but for this application, I think that uniform stress and mass homogeneity along the material is just as important to get a uniform curve. Although the poles I used had some pretty hefty connecting points in the middle and that didn't make any difference just eyeballing it. Not a true catenary curve, but close enough for "government work".
My two cents worth on cat cut hammock!
An adjustable spreader bar would be nice in eradicating shoulder squeeze. Probably, another spreader bar on the lower part of the fabric end cap would be more effective in eradicating shoulder squeeze altogether because it would define the shape of the hammock bed. If you want a wider wiggle room for your feet then another spreader bar on the lower foot end would solve the problem. But i believe three spreader bar would suffice.
I think that with the stressed pole, I'm really getting a parabolic curve and not a catenary. But then suspension bridge cables are parabolic and they're pretty stable. Don't know that anyone has ever really studied the stretched fabric to determine the most effective curve. I think everyone just assumes that what is best for a free hanging cable/chain is best for the fabric edge.
No, I've actually seen an engineer's write-up on the force distributions in a situation with a flat, flexible material like we would want in a tarp. I can't remember exactly what the material was or where I saw it though. Anyway, the forces distribute themselves along the catenary, which is why longer tarp edges sag.
"Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson
I ordered my stuff today.
- 30 feet of 4.8mm Syderline
- Hand sewing twine
- Curved hand sewing needles
The rest I'll salvage from old hammocks. I'll try bamboo first, then make adapters for trekking poles later.
I plan to use velcro to seal the ends (bugnet verion and a ripstop version.
The tarp can be much shorter like 7.5 * 10 instead of 12 * 11. Probably just make it rectangular with cat cuts. Until I can make that, I'll just use my old Speer Style 10 *10.
Probably use the same Mirage style bugnet. Everything should be short/lighter with this hammock. The greatest weight threat is the spreader bars. So using treking poles is key.
Yo Funbun!
Ive just bought several yards of bridal satin for the hammock body and 1 1/2 inch nylon webbing for suspension. I plan to use the webbing instead of cord/rope for suspension becuse im not comfortable with handsewing like the austalian's. I guess, im still in the wait and see attitude and will wait for your show and tell!
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