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  1. #11
    Countrybois's Avatar
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    I like it! Let us know how it turns out.

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  2. #12
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
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    HaHa... an example of parallel evolution? It seems I an doing much the same as you.

    I am marking 1" each side of the seams and pinning the two chalkmarks together.
    Then I am sewing a raised seam, this gives me a slightly less than 1" baffle and reduces each chamber to 3" on the inside and 5" on the outside (differential, YAY!)
    14 x 3" chambers = 42" wide on the inside and 60" long. Will reduce the length to get the 6oz of down to fully loft the chambers, 52" (same as my HG Phoenix) will give me a 3/4 UQ rated at aprox 40°F
    (thread is here, https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...h-Faux-Baffles)

  3. #13
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetUK437 View Post
    ...I am marking 1" each side of the seams and pinning the two chalkmarks together.
    Then I am sewing a raised seam, this gives me a slightly less than 1" baffle and reduces each chamber to 3" on the inside and 5" on the outside (differential, YAY!)
    14 x 3" chambers = 42" wide on the inside and 60" long. Will reduce the length to get the 6oz of down to fully loft the chambers, 52" (same as my HG Phoenix) will give me a 3/4 UQ rated at aprox 40°F
    (thread is here, https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...h-Faux-Baffles)
    Other considerations aside, you and the OP have a very clever idea here. Let us know how these quilts actually perform when they are done and you've spent some time using them.

  4. #14
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    I made draft tubes by how I made my cord channels. I folded a squares width in half over a piece of rope, then used the zipper foot to sew close to the rope. Then I attached the shockcord to the rope and used the rope to pull the shockcord through.

  5. #15
    Senior Member FJRpilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetUK437 View Post
    HaHa... an example of parallel evolution? It seems I an doing much the same as you.

    I am marking 1" each side of the seams and pinning the two chalkmarks together.
    Then I am sewing a raised seam, this gives me a slightly less than 1" baffle and reduces each chamber to 3" on the inside and 5" on the outside (differential, YAY!)
    14 x 3" chambers = 42" wide on the inside and 60" long.
    So I didn't understand where you were going with this until now ( I'm a visual learner ). Very clever, I would never have thought to go down this path. Add another 6oz of down to you new baffles and you will have a pretty decent 20 degree quilt. Nice job!


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  6. #16
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRpilot View Post
    Add another 6oz of down to you new baffles and you will have a pretty decent 20 degree quilt
    If I put another 6oz of down in it would be overstuffed by 63% and be rated to 17°F !!
    (pictures and maths are here, https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...h-Faux-Baffles)

  7. #17
    Senior Member Boston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetUK437 View Post
    If I put another 6oz of down in it would be overstuffed by 63% and be rated to 17°F !!
    (pictures and maths are here, https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...h-Faux-Baffles)
    That temp calculator isn't very accurate. It was an experiment in trying to predict temp rating based on comparing loft, and amount of down and correlating it to manufacturer's ratings. It's ok when you keep overstuff around normal levels (aka around the same levels as the cottage guys). However, it equally weights the amount of down with loft, which isn't correct. 63% overstuff isn't going to net you a 26*F improvment. Based on my most optimistic estimate you might see a 12*F improvement. But more likely you'll see maybe half that. Loft is king, judge your temp rating based on that. Most likely you have a quilt that will get you into the 30*s.

    I don't like the Jardine formula either (even though I'm the one who added it to that calculator - I've realized since it's not the best predictor). It works ok in the 20-40* range, but will over predict for lower temps, because insulation requirements aren't linear. The BPL chart is the best reference I've found, and seems fairly accurate.

    https://backpackinglight.com/bpl_sle...ion_statement/

    Keep in mind this is average loft, not peak loft.
    Last edited by Boston; 09-30-2016 at 07:58.

  8. #18
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRpilot View Post
    ..Add another 6oz of down to you new baffles and you will have a pretty decent 20 degree quilt. Nice job!
    There's an interesting idea. How much actual (700FP?) down is in one Costoco down throw anyway?

  9. #19
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
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    6oz
    It says it's 80/20 down/feather mix.
    But if it says it is 700 fill, it should be 700 fill with the feathers.

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    Gadget

  10. #20
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetUK437 View Post
    6oz
    It says it's 80/20 down/feather mix.
    But if it says it is 700 fill, it should be 700 fill with the feathers.
    So if someone bought a $40 down throw 2-pack, as is currently available online, it sounds like they could cut and sew one throw as you prescribe, add the down from the second throw to the first, and have an inexpensive (nearly) full-length differential-cut (mostly) down underquilt with pseudobaffles. That's not bad at all.

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