Yes, all 1-3/8" top rail fencing.
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Yes, all 1-3/8" top rail fencing.
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I really like this design, especially with the 2.0 mod. I'll make it and a new hammock for my nephew. The first furniture for his first apartment. He's been a full-timer for a few years.
Can you please give me an idea how much the Spurtle stand sways end-to-end? My nephew will be using it in a small upstairs bedroom, and his landlord will have fits if the stand bangs into the sloped walls/ceiling and damages the rather fine old plank paneling. It will be a close fit with a 12 ft top rail, but I could make it just a few inches shorter if necessary and also pad the top corners somehow.
So I wonder, How much to allow for the sway in the stand without it hitting the walls? Or has the racking issue been resolved and I somehow missed it?
Also, would it be an improvement if I drill the tubes to allow the set screws to go in further than just biting the surface? I know that would make set-up a little harder (to match up the holes with the set screws) but only occasionally if it's used in an essentially permanent location.
Many thanks for any advice, and for advancing & sharing this great stand design!
Unfortunately, I'm not in the same country as my stand right now. I would estimate at least two inches. You could try testing by standing on the cross piece at one end, and then push/pull on the top rail.
Getting in and out gently can minimize the sway, but, it will also sway when you change positions in the hammock.
You could reduce length and height of the stand to a couple inches longer than your ridgeline, but it wouldn't be useful for a tarp outdoors.
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Forgot to answer the second question:
I find drilling holes for the fitting set screws unnecessary. As you pointed out, assembly would require alignment of the tubes. I see no advantage.
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Willfcc, Thanks for your helpful replies. Yes, I can reduce the size a few inches to acommodate that amount of sway (it probably feels like more in the hammock!), also add some fat rubber crutch tips on the top T ends to protect the walls if it hits. And I'll give him an extra rail section so he can also use it outdoors with a tarp.
Good to know there's no advantage drilling holes for the set screws, or spring buttons, or pins. Now, aside from a few minutes with a hacksaw, the hardest part of making this fine stand is waiting for the connectors to arrive.
Thanks again!
Sorry if already posted and I missed it, but is height adjustable?
No, not adjustable.
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This is just an idea you might want to pursue further. I haven't tried it, so proceed with care!
I think you probably can make the height adjustable if your uprights are 1-3/8" fence top rail. Here's an UNTESTED idea you might be able to adapt for your purpose, starting from a post I just saw for modding the legs on a DIY tensahedron stand that was made from the same fence rail material.
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post2004233
So, it seems that 1" emt will fit snugly onto the swedged end of 1-3/8" fence top rail, and when taken apart the 1" emt slides into the opposite straight end. His goal was to break down the legs into shorter slide-together sections to make a more compact bundle for transport. Good idea, and maybe can adapted for adjustable leg lengths on your Spurtle. I don't have a piece of fence to rail to test the 1" emt slide-in fit, so I'm just going on what he says!
If the 1" emt is sufficiently snug when it slides into the straight (not swedged) end of the top rail with very little wiggle, then I think you could use it to make your Spurtle legs adjustable. That is, cut each Spurtle leg into 2 sections (I don't know the physics of where the cut should be for max strength when joined. Middle??) and cut a section of 1" emt that will slide in between the 2 sections at the new cut.
Drill a hole for a locking connector pin (can't recall its proper name -- the kind with the wire across it) all the way through the top rail on each end, a few inches below the new cuts. Also drill some holes through the 1" emt in strategic places to adjust for your desired length(s), and secure the new sliding joint on both ends with locking connector pins. (Or you could pop-rivet one end of the emt into the stand leg below the cut, and slide only the upper leg section to adjust the height.)
I'd allow about 4" length of 1" emt at each end inside the fence rail (so an 8" length of emt will connect the 2 leg sections together but will not add any length). Make the extension longer at your own discretion!
I can think of a couple other ways to do this, but IMO they're less secure.
To repeat: This is just an idea you might want to pursue further. I haven't tried it, so proceed with care!
I hope this is a helpful start. Good luck, and if you succeed (or even if not) please report back!
Thanks, OneClick, that's good to know. I looked up the specs for 1 3/8 fence top rail, 17 gauge ("residential" grade according to Wheatland site, I think that's the gauge Lowes and Home Depot carry). Nominal ID is 1.205". From HD specs the nom OD of 1" EMT is 1.163 so that leaves approx 042 between them. A very close fit as you say, probably about as tight as stovepipe fittings (just had mine apart to clean today) with just enough wiggle room to get them apart. Might help to lube the emt with a touch of vaseline or maybe a swipe of Chap-stick in the field (graphite is too messy). I wouldn't sand it because that would encourage rust. Now I want to get some fence rail and try this height adjustment mod, although I don't need another (and heavier) stand!
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