My Ridgerunner Costco Modular Underquilt

[TaoJones]

I'm a new WBRR owner and I'm wondering if you have the dimensions or the pattern you used for your UQ. I don't have anyone to lie in the hammock while I take measurements like you did, so I'm a little worried about getting it right.

Now that it's been a couple of years since you made your CDT UQ, are you still happy with the results? Did the addition of the synthetic insulating material make a big difference? Did you consider completely taking the Costco throws apart and building a more "typical" UQ by sewing in baffles cut from no-see-um, then putting the down back in the finished quilt/s?

You did a great job from what I can see . . . it looks like a Lynx.

[Peabody]

Hey Tao,
It’s still working great; I used it a couple weeks ago on a weekend hike - temps were low 40’s at night. This was without the additional button-on smaller quilt.
As far as measurements, I can get that for you sometime this weekend. The one thing I remember about the build was that the inside layer of fabric needed a pretty big differential cut to keep my backside from crushing the insulation under my butt.
As far as disassembling the quilt, that sounds like a nightmare. I would recommend the faux baffles as suggested in GadgetUK437’s thread if you wanted to try to eliminate the sewn-through baffle design.

[Tikker]

looks pretty spectacular

[Peabody]

Thanks!
Tao, I can’t find my old notes on the build. However, you should be able to measure the ridgerunner itself using a flexible sewing tape measure, then apply those measurements to your underquilt. However, the inner fabric of the quilt needs to be about 1-1/2 inches narrower per side where your butt sits tto avoid compressing the insulation.

[TaoJones]

Thanks!
Tao, I can’t find my old notes on the build. However, you should be able to measure the ridgerunner itself using a flexible sewing tape measure, then apply those measurements to your underquilt. However, the inner fabric of the quilt needs to be about 1-1/2 inches narrower per side where your butt sits tto avoid compressing the insulation.

No problem, Peabody . . . thanks for checking. I'm back onliine for the first time in eight days and wanted to check this thread right away - sorry for the delay. I agree that completely taking the CDT apart would not be fun and the faux baffles make more sense.

I have an inexpensive Brother sewing machine I found on craigslist that I think will do everything I need it to do. I plan to hang the RR and take measurements without anyone in it, but I don't think that will make a huge difference.

Instead of having port/starboard channels, I'm planning on running them fore/aft and cutting the first UQ at ~25" (five channels) and attaching it to the RR at the spreader tips with shock cord. I'll then make an ~35" (seven remaining channels) overquilt from the remaining CDT. Like your modular quilt, it will overlay the first quilt with the channels over the first quilt's sewn-through baffles and attach with Kam Snaps. With the addition of a pad in the double-layer RR, I should have plenty of options for most weather conditions - always a good idea here in Colorado - and by cutting the two modular quilts from a single CDT, I'll still have the second one for something else (top quilt, maybe?).

Thanks again for posting your information and pictures, Peabody. I'm inspired!

[Peabody]

I actually like to supplement with a pad in my ridgerunner and it gives me a go to ground option. Take a look at some dimensions for top quilts. I would go with a 50” wide at a minimum. Good luck on your build!