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  1. #21
    Senior Member Malcolm's Avatar
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    Jun 2017
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Hammock
    Chameleon 1.6 Hexon
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    20D Superfly
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    Incubator Econ 20
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    3000# straps, UCRs
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    180
    Thanks, everyone! I've had some similar issues, and this leads me to believe I've been cinching the ends too much. Now I just have to wait for some colder weather to try out the theory...

  2. #22
    OneClick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Wasteland that is IN
    Hammock
    Dutch Argon 10.5'
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    Anything Warbonnet
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    WB Straps+Buckles
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    11,071
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malcolm View Post
    Thanks, everyone! I've had some similar issues, and this leads me to believe I've been cinching the ends too much. Now I just have to wait for some colder weather to try out the theory...
    That's what I was doing after switching hammock lengths. It doesn't seem like a big difference, but it was enough to really get me scratching my head. I couldn't figure it out but it ended up being the ends cinched too tight. Just a little can really ruin the night.

    It seems normal to attach the UQ and tighten everything up so it looks "right". But that's the issue since everything changes when you lie inside.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Minnesota
    Hammock
    SLD Trail Lair
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    DIY UCR-LoopDLoop
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    90
    I agree with the sentiment here, and confirm that my nights have gotten warmer since loosening up the cinching on the ends. I knew not to have it too tight, but looser than I would have thought has been the ticket.

  4. #24
    cougarmeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Hammock
    WBBB, WBRR, WL LiteOwl
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    OES, WL BullFro
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    HG UQ, TQ, WB UQ
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    Python Straps
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    1,482
    >I will second the suggestion of getting some of Dutch's ridgeline quilt hooks. While not needed for a perfectly adjusted UQ, they are very helpful for us solo hangers who don't have the benefit of someone else to check >for gaps. The only issue is they got lost easily, but they are cheap and light, so I carry extras.

    You could just use a small S-biner (or any other) instead. Keep it clipped on the ridge line and put the bungee cords in the lower half of the biner.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  5. #25
    aka 'Extra' MikekiM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    East of Montauk, NY
    Hammock
    DIY
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    I clip the primary suspension on all of my quilts (incubator, phincubator or Phoenix) to the SRL. I tried the Dutch hooks that go on and over the SRL and don't care for them.. the break easily.

    Since I use a netless and/or Half Wit, the SRL is exposed. I have a micro mitten hook attached over the SRL, and keep it in place with a prussik (even though I hate prussiks).

    * The difficulty of finding any given trail marker is directly proportional to the importance of the consequences of failing to find it.

    * I can lift all the weight I want at the gym. Walking shouldn't be a workout. ~ Just Bill


  6. #26
    cougarmeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Hammock
    WBBB, WBRR, WL LiteOwl
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    If you plan ahead, you can make a longer ridge line and put alpine loops at the appropriate fixed locations - I found it takes about 5 extra inches for a Alpine loop large enough to garth hitch the mitten clip to it. No more prussic. It's not as easy to move to another location. But if you only want it at a fixed point, that's one way to go. So you might make your ridge lines with 10 to 15 extra inches and then you can put a couple or three loops in the line to get the end-to-end distance where you want it. The additional feature is - if you change your mind about the ridge line length, you can adjust it by making one of the loops bigger/smaller.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  7. #27
    aka 'Extra' MikekiM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    East of Montauk, NY
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    Although I do HATE prussiks, in this case I bite the bullet.

    Being able to adjust the location of the mitten hook is paramount.. for the Phoenix, the hooks needs to be slid closer to the head end to put the right angle of pull on the primary suspension. For a Phincubator, or Incubator, the mitten hook moves progressively closer to the foot end. Additionally, being able to slide it adds ads another level of adjustment to each quilt.. if more venting is needed slide the hook closer to the foot end or skip it entirely.
    * The difficulty of finding any given trail marker is directly proportional to the importance of the consequences of failing to find it.

    * I can lift all the weight I want at the gym. Walking shouldn't be a workout. ~ Just Bill


  8. #28

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ga.(Macon area)
    Hammock
    11 Ft Dutch Hexon 1.0 Sidezip
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    12 ft HG Quest
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    3/4 Phoenix20
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    Spiderpolybeetles
    Posts
    1,288
    One thing I learned the Hard Way is to keep the secondary suspension slightly tighter on one side.In my case it would be my right side as I sleep head left/foot right.This makes the quilt slide off my left shoulder first should it decide to move in the night while I am changing sleep positions;that way it's a simple matter to open my integrated net,reach over with my right hand and pull the quilt back up over the left shoulder.You will see Shug demonstrate that "shoulder move" in one of his videos.

    If the quilt slides up on your right side in a netted hammock with zipper on only your left side,you're gonna have to get up to re-position it

    Pay attention to the Shug tip about a small piece of reflectix under your feet or back.That stuff is light and worth it's weight in gold!

  9. #29
    erric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Seattle
    Hammock
    MikekiM's Half Wit
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    HG DCF
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    43
    I just spent 5 nights in the North Cascades with persistent CBS and cold lower back with my 20 degree Phoenix, in temps in the 40s. I actually randomly clicked on this thread maybe a week ago, and remembered the comment about keeping the draft collars loose, and unfortunately that didn't seem to be my issue. I fiddled with it every which way and couldn't figure it out. It may partially be because this is my first time using it, and the shock cord is still so tight that even lightly tightening it for an asymmetrical fit the tension was so strong that the little lineloc things couldn't hold the cord in place, and it would slip right through. I'm going to give the dutch quilt hooks a shot, and maybe try stretching out that shock cord.

  10. #30
    erric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Seattle
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    MikekiM's Half Wit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Five Tango View Post
    One thing I learned the Hard Way is to keep the secondary suspension slightly tighter on one side.In my case it would be my right side as I sleep head left/foot right.This makes the quilt slide off my left shoulder first should it decide to move in the night while I am changing sleep positions;that way it's a simple matter to open my integrated net,reach over with my right hand and pull the quilt back up over the left shoulder.You will see Shug demonstrate that "shoulder move" in one of his videos.

    If the quilt slides up on your right side in a netted hammock with zipper on only your left side,you're gonna have to get up to re-position it

    Pay attention to the Shug tip about a small piece of reflectix under your feet or back.That stuff is light and worth it's weight in gold!
    This differs from other recommendations I've seen; are you saying you tighten the secondary suspension on both the foot and head end on the right side? Rather than tightening it on the left side of the head end and the right side of the foot end for a head left/feet right lay?
    Last edited by erric; 09-15-2019 at 21:19.

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