What happened to the last two pictures? How does it end?
What happened to the last two pictures? How does it end?
Unfortunately the pics in this pictoral are "currently unavailable."
I've been researching splicing all day. However I haven't been able to find the answer to a specific question regarding locked brummels.
I've read multiple threads on the subject. I've also watched several video tutorials, and this is where my question originates. I have seen demonstrated 2 ways of splicing locked brummels. I'm not 100% sure it makes a difference but I could have sworn I had read about this subject a year or so ago and that there was a right way and a wrong way to do it.
The difference lies in how much of the end you bring through the first awl hole. One way shows that you bring the first end through until your mark for the second hole comes through the first hole. The other shows you bring the end through the first hole but stop before you bring the mark through hole.
Can anyone who understands such things tell me which of these are correct or if they are both valid?
Thank you in advance!
This would probably be the best source -- a website for sailing that has good instructions for splicing various things.
(Including a variety of soft shackles, though newer versions have been developed for hammocking -- see Evo Loops, etc.)
Thank you P-Dub for the links. The instructions for the Brummel Eye Splice on that page look very interesting. However they seem completely different from what I was talking about.
Maybe it would help if I explain myself a little better. I made continuous loops for my hammocks last year. It was my first and only splicing project but it was pretty easy. I followed the instructions in a video recommended on the list of splicing tutorials. The one by TheBrewGuy. (I will copy and paste the link here and hope it works since I've never included links in a post before.)
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ontinuous-Loop
Now I want to make an adjustable UCR ridgeline for my hammock. While watching videos on how to make a UCR I saw that the locked brummel was done differently. Thus my doubt on how they should be done (especially if I did the CLs wrong on my hammocks, though I haven't had any problems yet.)
For examples please contrast the video posted by TheBrewGuy in the link I (hopefully) posted above at 4:36 and the following video on how to make UCRs posted by TacBlades at 4:16. https://youtu.be/W-_qsRXXLsU (Again hoping the link works!)
So my questions are these: Are all 3 of these techniques viable (including the one from the L-36 website suggested by P-Dub in the previous post?) Are they all "Locked Brummels"? Do they all function the same way? If there is a difference, which do I want to use for CLs and UCRs? Do I need make new CLs for my hammocks or are they safe as is?
Sorry for all the doubts and questions. I've tried to find the answer but haven't found anything referencing these differences.
Thank you again P-Dub for your response. I really do appreciate it.
you are wise to be concerned, nice to see some people exercise some caution here, too .
this thread should be "unstickied" as the tutorial is quite pointless without the pictures.
what is shown in that video is what i would call a brummel unlock, in other words it is utterly useless. the point of putting a brummel lock is to stop the burry from coming apart (and the loop opening) when the splice is not under tension, this means that, if the brummel lock is to be any use, pulling the loop or what have you apart before you burry the tails should just result in the brummel getting tight, not in the loop opening.
in the case of the video above, if you pull then the loop will open, so that might be looking similar to a brummel, but a lock it is not, and it won't do the job.. a continuous loop made using that technique is indeed unsafe, especially one which would be hidden inside the sewn channels of a hammock (so won't get visually inspected "incidentally"). an alternative to a functional brummel is to stitch the burryes to stop them from pulling out. this method of making a brummel is not an alternative though (you might as well not bother, and burry the tails without making the "fake brummel", the effect would be the same)
thanks for posting the timestamp, that's considerate. indeed this is one of the correct ways to make a locked brummel. think of how that eye loop will be loaded in real use, and think "will the tail pull out, or will the burmmel tighten on itself when loaded?", the tail being the short end which gets burried inside the long end.Now I want to make an adjustable UCR ridgeline for my hammock. While watching videos on how to make a UCR I saw that the locked brummel was done differently. Thus my doubt on how they should be done (especially if I did the CLs wrong on my hammocks, though I haven't had any problems yet.)
For examples please contrast the video posted by TheBrewGuy in the link I (hopefully) posted above at 4:36 and the following video on how to make UCRs posted by TacBlades at 4:16. https://youtu.be/W-_qsRXXLsU (Again hoping the link works!)
again, think of the use of the splice you are making, and think what will happen in actual use, imagining the burry of the splice becomes loose/comes out. will the brummel be tightened by tension, or will it be pulled apart. if it will be pulled apart, then it's most lickely not what you want (there are exceptions, but nevermind), and it most definitely makes it an un-locked-brummel (or is it an un-locked un-brummel?)So my questions are these: Are all 3 of these techniques viable (including the one from the L-36 website suggested by P-Dub in the previous post?) Are they all "Locked Brummels"? Do they all function the same way? If there is a difference, which do I want to use for CLs and UCRs? Do I need make new CLs for my hammocks or are they safe as is?
Sorry for all the doubts and questions. I've tried to find the answer but haven't found anything referencing these differences.
Thank you again P-Dub for your response. I really do appreciate it.
hope this helps clarify it
edit: one more note which appies specifically to continuous loops: making a nice "inline" brummel is topologically impossible (without rebraiding the rope), so a locked brummel for a continuous loop that actually works will always look ugly and bulky, as it is "flipped over", so it's impossible to mess it up with a continuous loop, once you've made one and see what it looks like.
Last edited by nanok; 09-22-2020 at 13:21.
Thank you nanok for your reply.
I have created a new thread to specifically address my questions above. Hopefully I explained it better the third time.
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...icing-question
Edit to add: Unfortunately I can't edit my original question to include a link to the new thread. So in the interest of keeping all the information together to make it easier for people in the future I will ask here that anyone who would like to respond to my questions regarding locked brummels please do so in the new thread I linked above in this post. Thank you very much.
Last edited by SutterButtes; 09-22-2020 at 15:13.
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