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  1. #11
    Senior Member SimonMc's Avatar
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    It seems to highlight the relative weakness in that particular fabric whatever it is. Some of the poly fabrics can have a very low tear resistance especially the lighter weight fabrics without a ripstop grid.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by slugbait View Post
    I noticed the dynaglide has some stitches through it. Maybe one could sew the hems first, then run a long piece of dynaglide through the hem. Next, splice the two ends into a huge continuous loop. I have no idea if this would work.
    Actually I did the rolled hems first then shoved the dynaglide into the rolled hem. Sometimes it gets caught on a string in the hem but a little fiddling and it will go right into the hem. Very easy to sew the dynaglide once is is in the hem since it is trapped in a small space. I used a 6mm rolled hem foot for the hems so it's a fairly small hem.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tacblades View Post
    Well i have often thought about this, but i think it comes down to how many stitches yo can get to go through the cord.

    Interesting tests, maybe amsteel is eaiser to get some stitches in?
    Very easy to stitch the dynaglide it stays in place under the foot. I also sew it onto the center seam of the tarp for ridgeline loops. .


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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellyfish View Post
    I wonder if actually sewing the tie outs on the strap side (instead of using glue) would help to shift the tension away from that corner of the strap.
    RSBTR has a prefered method for attaching the loops to membrane on their site. I copied their recommendations for this material which i'm pretty sure is pu4000. Maybe it doesn't work very well on this. Funny though the rips happened along the rolled hem. I think both methods probably work equally well as far as strength. It was a matter of how it looked to me plus I find it easier and quicker to do. Also you can match some of your tarp colors with lashit or dynaglide instead of the black poly.

  5. #15
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    Tacblades- my idea was to have the dynaglide running freely through the hem- no stitches through the cord.

  6. #16
    New Member BCBob's Avatar
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    Tacblades- my idea was to have the dynaglide running freely through the hem- no stitches through the cord.
    That would give you strong edges, but wouldn't it prevent the hemmed edges from stretching, especially the diagonals (bias), resulting in floppy sides?

  7. #17
    Senior Member FJRpilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCBob View Post
    That would give you strong edges, but wouldn't it prevent the hemmed edges from stretching, especially the diagonals (bias), resulting in floppy sides?
    I think it depends on the Length of the legs of the Dynaglide. I actually think it might improves the tautness of the long edges as its pulling along the hem as opposed to the body of the tarp. Regarding the tearing in the material. It looks to me as if the tear started in a needle hole (i might be wrong). In my simple mind, the lighter the material (1.1 SilPoly or Nylon) calls for the smallest needle you can get away with, lighter thread and longer stitch lengths. This might reduce the incidence of tears. Also, it re-enfoces the practice of using elastic on your tie outs. I've never seen this before and I plan to incorporate in my next build.
    “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men should do nothing.”

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  8. #18
    Senior Member
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    the dynaglide is probably overkill as your tarp will be in shreads well before the dynaglide is even stressed.

    I used a rolled hem (on Membrane PU) supported with the recommended membrane support patch and sewed some ribbon into the corners and then attached a 1/2 inch strip of grosgrain with a d-ring and pack hook. this has held up under moderate wind and I don't see any stress on the fabric

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  9. #19
    Senior Member Tacblades's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slugbait View Post
    Tacblades- my idea was to have the dynaglide running freely through the hem- no stitches through the cord.
    Oh i didnt think of that,
    Now my brain is hurting trying to work out all the tension calculations

    I agree that the tear strength on silpoly is pretty low, but i do find using a zigzag stitch works very well everwhere, instead of a straight stich tear here please line

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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRpilot View Post
    I think it depends on the Length of the legs of the Dynaglide. I actually think it might improves the tautness of the long edges as its pulling along the hem as opposed to the body of the tarp. Regarding the tearing in the material. It looks to me as if the tear started in a needle hole (i might be wrong). In my simple mind, the lighter the material (1.1 SilPoly or Nylon) calls for the smallest needle you can get away with, lighter thread and longer stitch lengths. This might reduce the incidence of tears. Also, it re-enfoces the practice of using elastic on your tie outs. I've never seen this before and I plan to incorporate in my next build.
    I am pretty sure yor are right about the needle hole tear. I used a 14 schmetz microtex needle with Gutermann 70. Smallest they recommend for that thread. I believe our thread strength far exceeds the material strength. I am thinking of trying the Gutermann sew all thread that can be used with a 10 needle.

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