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  1. #21
    Rain Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    A quicker and easier workaround would be to do the old industrial machine technique from before machines were made with reverse. Stitch a few stitches (5-8) raise the needle and presser foot and pull the fabric back to where you started stitching. Stitch over the previous stitches and continue along the seam. For all intents and purposes it is as strong as the now standard forward reverse technique. Once you are used to it it is very fast and easy.
    If I'm understanding you, I don't think that solves his problem of starting right on the edge of the fabric.

    However, one more idea is to place a piece of plain paper under the silnylon. It might help support the edge and movement with the cog foot, and the paper will tear right off at the stitching afterward.

    Rain Man

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  2. #22
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Man View Post
    If I'm understanding you, I don't think that solves his problem of starting right on the edge of the fabric.

    However, one more idea is to place a piece of plain paper under the silnylon. It might help support the edge and movement with the cog foot, and the paper will tear right off at the stitching afterward.

    Rain Man

    .
    Rainman... you are correct. That post did not address the original problem of the bunching. It was directed at the technique of turning the fabric 180* in order to avoid reverse. I find that process to be particularly cumbersome, especially when working with large or intricate pieces. Remember that most patterns allow for a minimum of 1/2" seam allowance. Many commercial clothing patterns use 5/8" allowance. So starting the stitches away from the very edge is not a problem except in special circumstances. In fact, if the end of a stitch line is going to be stitched over by another it is often unnecessary to lock off the ends of the first line. The cross line of stitches does that automatically.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

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  3. #23
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    My machine is giving me fits.

    It was running just fine, 'till I broke a needle.

    Changed the needle, and now, it won't pick up the bobbin thread, except on a single thickness of thin material. If I double up the material, no bobbin. It's also wanting to break thread.

    What have I done to my machine?
    Dave

    http://www.uark.edu/misc/xtimber/rna/pattonsbluff.html

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  4. #24
    Senior Member TinaLouise's Avatar
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    If all you did was change the needle... I'd try pulling the bobbin thread out and putting it back, just on the off chance that a piece of the broken needle went into the bobbin casing. Plus, pull out the top thread and rethread it back to the needle.
    As I've learned from other's, breaking thread is a tension problem. Make sure your upper thread is threaded correctly through all the places it's supposed to go. Having a needle break can put a lot of tension on the thread and may have caused the thread to "jump the track" so to speak. You may need to also adjust the tension dial. But rethread first.

  5. #25
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TinaLouise View Post
    ...may need to also adjust the tension...
    Just what I was thinking...
    "We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
    www.MollyMacGear.com

  6. #26
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    Just what I was thinking...
    Will tension problems cause the failure to p/u the bobbin?
    Dave

    http://www.uark.edu/misc/xtimber/rna/pattonsbluff.html

    It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.
    John Steinbeck

  7. #27
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Tension changes should not stop the thread from picking up the bobbin. How ever.. putting the needle in backwards will most certainly make the machine wanky. Assuming the machine is not so old that it needs special needles the new needles should be good. Make sure the needle is oriented the right way for the machine and make sure it is properly seated in the needle holder.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  8. #28
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    It's a Singer 201...the flat on the needle goes under the set screw, right? It looks to me like there's only one way for it to go.
    Dave

    http://www.uark.edu/misc/xtimber/rna/pattonsbluff.html

    It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.
    John Steinbeck

  9. #29
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgringo View Post
    It's a Singer 201...the flat on the needle goes under the set screw, right? It looks to me like there's only one way for it to go.
    I think the flat of the needle goes t'other way, against the bottom of the receiver groove thingamajig....
    "We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
    www.MollyMacGear.com

  10. #30
    Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    the 201 uses a standard 15 X 1 needle so that should be good. I can't find a note on how the needle orients. I think there is a notch in the needle shaft at the top. That should sit into a corresponding notch on the needle assembly. The back of the needle eye is also shaped a littl4e different than the front. The back is splayed a little bit more to allow for the thread movement. Not sure what else to tell you.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

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