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  1. #1

    Looking for some direction on building my first underquilt

    Hello, I am new to posting here, but have been lurking for a while. I am in the process of building an undequilt. I have been using a costco throw underquilt made of 2, and it has worked OK but for what it is, but I want something proper now. A little about myself, I am familiar with how to use a sewing machine, so far I made a winter tarp out of sil, made a couple of hammocks, underquilt CDT, and other miscellaneous items familiar with amseteel.

    For my current project I purchased a pound of 750-800 fill (probably 700), a few yards of argon 90 and noseeums mesh, I also purchased a few yards of 1.35 oz ripstop 30D from ebay before understanding what downproof was (it may or may not be downproof).

    Now waiting for the supplies to arrive I'm doing as much research as I can. I have read the instructubles guide, red river gorge quilt instructions, and a bunch of other ones. Most of the instructions leave me with a lot of specific questions, so I thought I would ask them here.

    Is there a sticky on all the calculators I see referenced?
    I'm leaning towards a 3/4 2/3 quilt, what dimensions should it be (I'm 6'1")? (This one is very unclear instructions say make it what you want, except I don't have enough experience with it to know what I want.)
    Would a full size quilt with tapered down baffles toward the foot end worth the hassle?
    Quilt suspension standard, or with clews?
    Down filling methods, my down is in one big bag, so far I have seen the vacuum method, anything better to weigh and fill?
    Any mistakes I should avoid?

    Thanks again for all the great information on this forum.

  2. #2
    Senior Member onesojourner's Avatar
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    I think most people want their knees to their neck on the quilt. I would measure that and add a couple inches.

    I did clews and I would absolutely do it again. I would make my inside layer 1 inch shorter though and taper the baffles. I describe this in more detail on one of the last pages of the clew thread.

    For the down I just used the noseeum on the shop vac. We sucked/stuffed the tube until it lost suction and blew it in. I did not measure I just went down the line and hit each baffle until I ran out of down. it may not be perfect but it seems pretty close. We used the last oz of down to tweak if one baffle looked lower than the others.

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  4. #4
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
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    Made this one just recently,

    Cannibalised 3 CDTs, filled with 15oz of the down. Trickiest build I've done so far, tapered shells, shaped baffles, dual differential.
    I used my adapted version of the calculator, https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
    Will do a build thread soon.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
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    For an average male, a full length quilt would be in the ballpark of 48-50" wide for side sleepers or people who want luxury, narrower if you are a fulltime back sleeper. Length would be about 70-80" long, depending on your exact height and whether or not you use a pillow.

    +1 for clew suspension. Having done both, it's a clear winner. You can also consider a gathered end wookie style or a wookie+clew hybrid.

    For stuffing down, i can only give you my sympathies.

    I also recommend you factor in differential cuts for both the width AND the length before you start sewing.

  6. #6
    For the clew suspension do you just attach loops in line with your baffles, or between? How do you make the clew system adjustable up and down along the length of the hammock? For the differential cuts I somewhat get the width wise, but on the length wise do you make the baffles narrower at the ends to make it more boat shaped?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlickO View Post
    For the clew suspension do you just attach loops in line with your baffles, or between?
    I put mine on the seams to reduce flattening.
    Quote Originally Posted by SlickO View Post
    How do you make the clew system adjustable up and down along the length of the hammock?
    I have a cord on each ring that ties onto the hammock suspension with a slip knot.
    Quote Originally Posted by SlickO View Post
    For the differential cuts I somewhat get the width wise, but on the length wise do you make the baffles narrower at the ends to make it more boat shaped?
    The boat shape occurs naturally with a clew suspension. Adding lengthwise differential helps get rid of pressure points that reduce loft in the seat area. You will have to carefully add these to the baffle material as you sew the chambers together, which is why i'm giving you the headsup before you start. You can't retro-fix it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
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    Just add a reminder he's was thinking of a 3/4 length. Might be an issue with clews.

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    Gadget

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetUK437 View Post
    Just add a reminder he's was thinking of a 3/4 length. Might be an issue with clews.

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    Gadget
    Agreed. Although I'm sure others will disagree.

  10. #10
    Senior Member onesojourner's Avatar
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    Has anyone made a 3/4 quilt with clews?

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