Continuous Loop pictoral

[brooklynkayak]

Re: "why they suggest skipping 5 holes",
I see your point, but I find the finished splice so smooth at the brummel that it is less likely to snag than the method used in the original post.
I have had the bury work it's way partially out using the original method in this post.

I was using the same locked brummel that is common with end loops, but this required a twist at the pass-through to make sure that one end was buried into the other, instead of buried back into itself, which is a mistake I've seen a lot of people with the the locked brummel method. There is even a popular youtube video that shows ends buried back into themselves which creates a weak spot at the locked brummel.

The twist to overcome this issue creates a lump at the brummel which doesn't happen with the method in the PDF.

[gmcttr]

I came across this pdf using a better locking method.

For clarity, this is essentially a brummel splice (which should actually have more pass throughs to be correct).

Unfortunately, the correct terminology is not used frequently. A brummel eye splice is made with several pass throughs of the working end through the standing end followed with the bury. What is most commonly used is incorrectly referred to as a brummel but is actually an eye splice with a locked brummel made by passing the working end through the standing end followed by the standing end being passed through the working end and then the bury.

Clear as mud?

With all of that said, I like this idea. Thanks for posting it.

[brooklynkayak]

Thanks gmcttr, I re-read my post and corrected much of what I wrote.
I was trying to quickly post and work at the same time:-)

[dtp2c111]

I've found that instead of pulling one side of the bury through then the other that I sometimes pull the two parts apart and am left with a space between where the two ropes are suppose to be tightly put together. Instead I fish both ends through then pull right before milking both buries at the same time as the last step.
Hope this helps someone else.

Also, when attached to a channeled hammock, a loop larksheaded through must always have something like a binder to keep the loop from slipping out right?

[gmcttr]

I've never used any type of "binder" to keep a larks headed continuous loop or whoopie sling in place. Amsteel will take enough of a set to stay put.

[ROADGUNNER]

awesome, thank you

[Thumbs]

I've never used any type of "binder" to keep a larks headed continuous loop or whoopie sling in place. Amsteel will take enough of a set to stay put.

+1. I did one locked loop and none of the rest of mine have been locked and none have slipped. Once they are weighted, they kind of lock themselves.

[Ridge_Dog]

I did a You Tube video on this.

[gmcttr]

Technically 50% of the strands are cut when making the taper to maximize the ultimate strength of the splice...4 for 7/64" amsteel.

While many CL's are made the way you show, I prefer to use the method shown in the first post of this thread where a false "locked brummel" is not used. A true locked brummel in an eye splice serves the purpose of preventing the buries from backing out under no load conditions and the buries create the splices' strength.

With the false locked brummel in a CL the "lock" is the only thing giving the splice strength and the buries only serve to keep the amsteel from unraveling allowing the "lock" to pull apart. This makes a slightly weaker splice. It's still sufficient for our purposes but not as strong as it could be.

[Ridge_Dog]

Technically 50% of the strands are cut when making the taper to maximize the ultimate strength of the splice...4 for 7/64" amsteel.

While many CL's are made the way you show, I prefer to use the method shown in the first post of this thread where a false "locked brummel" is not used. A true locked brummel in an eye splice serves the purpose of preventing the buries from backing out under no load conditions and the buries create the splices' strength.

With the false locked brummel in a CL the "lock" is the only thing giving the splice strength and the buries only serve to keep the amsteel from unraveling allowing the "lock" to pull apart. This makes a slightly weaker splice. It's still sufficient for our purposes but not as strong as it could be.

Yep...made it exactly the way they are made from Dutch. Works great for hammocks and holds well at my 225 lbs. Really the Taper is used to make it easier while burying it. I know if no taper is used it supposedly makes a weak point. I don't think hanging at 225lbs is going to matter. My ends bury at about 5 inches.Actually used a tensile test gage to pull one apart. Got to the equivalent of 1980 lbs. Plenty to hold us in a hammock.

I can also argue that when you DIY you take a risk. Period. The pictorial is great so are all the vids.