opie, which needles have you found work well? Both loop splicing needle and reverse latch needle? Size? I have (most courtesy of your fantastic group buy efforts) New England Ropes DynaGlide 2mm, Samson Zing It 2.2mm & 1.75mm, and Samson Amsteel 7/64"/2.5mm. I'm willing to buy quality tools because I believe in buying the right tool for the job (so I don't mess up what little line I have). But not too much quality ($$).
..Mike the Weed Warrior bio // Think globally, act locally: Remove an invasive plant
BUT.... If I were just doing these at my leisure.... The loop splicing needle. Someone here made one, let me see if I can find the thread.
Here ya go...
It may not be rocket science, but it's still science.
Opie - great tutorial on the continuous loop.
I've been making these for a long time using the 1.75 mm Lash-It and now the 2 mm Dynaglide you did the group buy on (Thanks for that by the way).
I experimented with the "Brummel" to "lock" the splice when I started. I settled on a variation of the "locked Brummel" instead of the "Plain Brummel" you use in steps 5 and 6.
For the "plain Brummel" that you show, in your step 5 you do NOT pull the second mark through as you show.
For the "Locked Brummel", you pull DO the second mark through in your step 5.
The problem I had with the plain Brummel is that the forces on the loop pull the plain Brummel apart. You can verify this by making the plain Brummel you show and then, before burying the ends, hook the loop made over your thumbs and pull the loop. The plain Brummel pulls apart very easily.
Thus the plain Brummel really does nothing to keep the continuous splice from pulling apart. The Plain Brummel is a waste of effort if it is being used to keep the splice together. You would be better off stitching the buries. At least the stitching would be functional.
By pulling the second mark through in your step 5 to make the Locked Brummel, the forces on the loop actually pull the Brummel tighter, thus the "locked" part of the name.
The only problem with the locked Brummel for the continuous splice is that it can make a good sized "bump" in the splice. For the 1.75 mm Lash-It/Zing-It or the 2 mm Dynaglide, the bump isn't really noticeable. For 7/64" or larger diameter rope, the bump might be more objectionable. Don't really know about that though since I haven't made any continuous loops in anything except the 1.75 mm and 2 mm stuff. NOTE: Just made a loop using 1/8" Lash-It. The bump isn't really very much at all.
In the 1.75 mm and 2 mm stuff I use for the continuous loops for Prussics, I start with 15" and make the marks 2" from the ends giving me 2" buries. I experimented starting with 12" and 18". 2" buries in both. The 12" gave me a finished loop on the Prussic which is too small for my use. The 18" yielded a finished loop which was bigger than I needed. So I split the difference.
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Using the "plain brummel" I havent noticed any of the loops coming apart. If the tails werent buried I can see how it would come apart, but since the tails are buried, there really isnt anyway it would come apart unless you physically take it apart. No matter the orientation of the loop, when you apply force to it both buries are being pulled on.
BUT it does give the bury tails a "stopper". It allows me to pull each tail until they are tight, and then bury them. Keeps them consistent.
And its not like a fixed eye on a sling where you have something to get ahold of to pull it out. There is nothing you can get ahold of on the loop to pull the bury out, unless youre using a needle. I keep the bury entrance close enough to the brummel that you would need a good eye and a small needle to pull the bury out.
BTW< Youre right on the locked brummel.... Thats a nice little hump.
For those looking for wire to use as a splicing tool, try the local automotive store. They all carry either "safety" wire or utility wire. A 50' roll of stainless safety wire was only $3.99 at the local AutoZone.