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  1. #1
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Continuous Loop pictoral

    A member asked if I would post this... so here ya go. This is the same process I use for my Zing It prusiks, although the measurements are a bit shorter.















  2. #2
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    is your splicing tool just a wire coat hanger? i saved like 25 of those because they come in handy for so many things.

  3. #3
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ref103 View Post
    is your splicing tool just a wire coat hanger? i saved like 25 of those because they come in handy for so many things.
    No, wire coat hanger is to thick.

    I dont know the thickness of the wire Im using, but doubled over like it is its about the thickness of a coat hanger.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    No, wire coat hanger is to thick.

    I dont know the thickness of the wire Im using, but doubled over like it is its about the thickness of a coat hanger.
    thanks. that's a good reference to know. i've been wondering about that for a while. i can find something at work.

  5. #5
    JCHaywire kc7fys's Avatar
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    Guitar string fid.

    I was following this thread and making my own continuous loops. My DIY fid is a guitar string. I started thick, thinking a low E would be good--that was a mistake. A "G" or perhaps a "B" from a heavy set functions best. Stiffest, but still thin. For non-guitarists, you could use any string, but the high "E" starts to get too thin to be useful. "Unwound" means a plain wire, not one that's wound with bronze in a helical fashion.
    I suppose you could improve on the design with a dowel handle covered in shrink tubing... but my guitar string, doubled, rolls up nice in the Amsteel bag, ready to use.
    Jonathan

  6. #6
    Senior Member Lonely Raven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kc7fys View Post
    I was following this thread and making my own continuous loops. My DIY fid is a guitar string. I started thick, thinking a low E would be good--that was a mistake. A "G" or perhaps a "B" from a heavy set functions best. Stiffest, but still thin. For non-guitarists, you could use any string, but the high "E" starts to get too thin to be useful. "Unwound" means a plain wire, not one that's wound with bronze in a helical fashion.
    I suppose you could improve on the design with a dowel handle covered in shrink tubing... but my guitar string, doubled, rolls up nice in the Amsteel bag, ready to use.
    Jonathan
    I'm using D'Addario G string, .017 Nickle Plated if I recall correctly.

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    Thanks opie.

    I made one wrong...didn't lock it the way you are and the bury pulled out. Now i get it!

    Thanks!

    cooldays

  8. #8
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooldays View Post
    Thanks opie.

    I made one wrong...didn't lock it the way you are and the bury pulled out. Now i get it!

    Thanks!

    cooldays
    One of the key parts.. and I think is very important... When you start your buries, you need to have your splicing tool exit as close to the lock as possible. So when you pull the tail through, there isnt enough exposed line between the lock and the bury entrance for something to snag it out.

    Technically, its not a lock.... But it does prevent the tails from easily being pulled out.

    EDIT: Need to learn how to spell.
    Last edited by opie; 01-20-2010 at 21:34.

  9. #9
    Senior Member tlbj6142's Avatar
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    I was that member, thanks. Excellent work, again!
    Yellow Jacket

  10. #10
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ref103 View Post
    thanks. that's a good reference to know. i've been wondering about that for a while. i can find something at work.
    If I had to make an educated guess, Id say its 16 or 18 gauge. Might even be 14.

    Quote Originally Posted by tlbj6142 View Post
    I was that member, thanks. Excellent work, again!
    My pleasure and good luck with the 1.75!

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