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  1. #21
    Senior Member goobie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuneElliot View Post
    ....I thought I'd like the CRL due to the supposed ability to adjust it easier over the hammock....
    Center the hammock under the tarp instead

  2. #22
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2016
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    Story, WY
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    11' Dutchware Hexon 1.6
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    Currently making some adjustments and do some DIYing on the Tato connectors. (And fixing the snake skin).

    Definitely glad I got the chance to do all this testing before heading out next Friday for a week.

  3. #23
    New Member tmgnewport's Avatar
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    How about run the CRL through the Drings on the tarp so that the CRL supports the weight and the tarp connectors only have to hold tension. Looking at the pictures it seems like that would buy you a few more inches anyway.

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    I fixed the snake skin with some CF tape as I like the convenience and easy of setting up and deploying the tarp. I removed the plastic T-connectors on the TatoGear connectors but kept the hooks, and just attached the bungees to the D-rings on the tarp. I think this will work for me, at least for now. I do really like the tarp and how big it is, and will plan on using it even when I have to go to ground in the Wind River Range later this year.

    Thanks for all the help...couldn't have done it without you all

  5. #25
    Senior Member WalksIn2Trees's Avatar
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    Apr 2013
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    Looking at your first photos, I think you had some confusion in setting it up and it doesn't seem like any of the others noticed. It doesn't look like you had the ends of the CRL connected either directly (or indirectly via the tatos)to the tarp's ridgeline loops. It looks to me like you have it suspended via the tatos from the middle of the ridgeline but maybe that's just because of the limits of a cellphone photo


    Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by WalksIn2Trees View Post
    Looking at your first photos, I think you had some confusion in setting it up and it doesn't seem like any of the others noticed. It doesn't look like you had the ends of the CRL connected either directly (or indirectly via the tatos)to the tarp's ridgeline loops. It looks to me like you have it suspended via the tatos from the middle of the ridgeline but maybe that's just because of the limits of a cellphone photo


    Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk
    I did have it suspended directly from the ridgeline to the Tatos as that's what YouTube and other instructions said to do, not to mention all the pictures I've seen. I guess I'm not sure what you are saying I have done wrong

  7. #27
    Senior Member rais'n hammock's Avatar
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    Eagle Mountain, UT
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuneElliot View Post
    I agree. It's mostly the tress. I think I pretty much got it set-up right, including the hammock (although it needs a couple of drip lines added).



    I'd prefer not to have any undue rubbing or abrasion on a very expensive tarp.

    Any link to show me how to add some Prussiks to it? I know what a Prussic is but how to I attach them to the loop on the tarp and what kind of cord should I use, that I could likely find locally (Ace, Walmart, Home Depot, ranch supply).
    My CRL is Lash-it and I use Lash-it modified soft shackles to create a loop for the prusik.


    I have since changed to a Klemheist. It holds better when the line is the same. Or you can do a prusik with more wraps.
    http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/#ScrollPoint

    Outdoors > Indoors
    I love me some XeroShoes
    “An optimist is a man who plants two acorns and buys a hammock.” ― Jean de Lattre de Tassigny

  8. #28
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    The side tie-outs on your hex tarp exert forces that affect the position and deflection of both your tarp ridge line and the continuous ridge line that supports it.

    If your tarp hangs too low on long hang spans, start by pitching your continuous ridge line several inches higher that you want it to be when the tarp is up. The longer the hang span, the more your CRL will deflect under typical forces from the tie-outs going to the ground, and the lower your tarp ridge line will end up.

    Once I have the tarp staked out and the Prusiks tensioned, I actually like to go back to the Wasp and take any last bit of unwanted slack out of the CRL, using the mechanical advantage afforded by the bling.

    Here is a hang span of exactly 30 feet using a DIY'd 40-foot Lash-It CRL with Dutch bling (hook/Wasp) and Prusiks; note how little deflection there is in the CRL despite the long hang span, even though the tarp edges are drawn quite taut and exerting reasonable tension on the ridge line.




    HTH...
    Smart graphic design for all your needs by BGD

  9. #29
    Senior Member WalksIn2Trees's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuneElliot View Post
    I did have it suspended directly from the ridgeline to the Tatos as that's what YouTube and other instructions said to do, not to mention all the pictures I've seen. I guess I'm not sure what you are saying I have done wrong
    Oh ok just watched a video... Tatos aren't used the way I thought they were.

    From what I saw, you did attach it correctly using the Tatos, but they look very stretchy so the tarp will sag a lot using them with the tarp slung underneath the ridgeline rather than draped over.

    So yes, I agree the span was too great, though the sag could be reduced using different methods... Such as using the ridgeline itself to support the weight of the tarp, and only use the tatos to tension it.

    Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitsapcowboy View Post
    The side tie-outs on your hex tarp exert forces that affect the position and deflection of both your tarp ridge line and the continuous ridge line that supports it.

    If your tarp hangs too low on long hang spans, start by pitching your continuous ridge line several inches higher that you want it to be when the tarp is up. The longer the hang span, the more your CRL will deflect under typical forces from the tie-outs going to the ground, and the lower your tarp ridge line will end up.

    Once I have the tarp staked out and the Prusiks tensioned, I actually like to go back to the Wasp and take any last bit of unwanted slack out of the CRL, using the mechanical advantage afforded by the bling.

    Here is a hang span of exactly 30 feet using a DIY'd 40-foot Lash-It CRL with Dutch bling (hook/Wasp) and Prusiks; note how little deflection there is in the CRL despite the long hang span, even though the tarp edges are drawn quite taut and exerting reasonable tension on the ridge line.




    HTH...
    A great explanation with pictures...thank you. Definitely what I was experiencing. So now I know.

    So much of this could have been avoided by making use of a group hang, except there's no one withing two hours of me (and only one on here I know of) to help me.

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