Speaking of tensioning a tarp at the four tieout corners, what is the advantage of the Dutch titanium Fleaz / hookworms with a Dring compared to a simple LineLoc? I understand these are nice piece of gear but wondering in the grand scheme of things why replace a single piece adjustment mechanism with something with more parts?
Same question for the ridgeline although I believe the Stingerz may bring additional flexibility in the sense of ability to hook the tarp easily.
Regards,
Minos
I don't have any experience with Dutch's Hookworms.
But, I was using simple LineLoc's with ZPacks 2.3 Reflective Z-Line for my tarp guy outs and while they worked I wanted a faster and less complicated setup.
So, I eventually went with Dutch's Fleaz with the shock cord loops on the side pull out's of my Hammock Gear Tarp and Fleaz w/ Zing it loops for the perimeter.
They work great, and from my experience, worth it in my opinion.
As far as the ridgeline, go with a CRL from Dutch.
I love mine.
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LineLocs only work with regular cord right? Dutch hookwormz also work with shock cord.
Normal cords need to be retightened after the sun/rain/dew causes nylon tarps to stretch; shock cords do not.
EDIT: Dutch fleaz/waspz allow for quicker setup, takedown, and retightening of the tarp.
Last edited by W8lkinUSA; 06-27-2017 at 03:32.
LineLocs require cord of at least 2mm diameter. Fleaz and worms and such will work with much smaller guyline. I use 1.1 reflective line. If you have a tarp with doors and midpoint tie-outs, you could be using as many as 10 tie-outs. There is a significant weight and bulk savings by using smaller diameter line in this scenario.
I've had great success using Lineloc 3's (especially dutch's lighter version) with 1.7mm lines like Reflectit. I'm also not sure who said you can't use shock cord with linelocs, because virtually every UQ suspension I've seen would seem to contradict that premise.
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I agree 100% with the above assessment.
Even though I haven't yet, I will be investing in some lighter weight cordage for my guy out lines, in the future.
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I actually use the Dutch's LineLoc with a pack hook for mine. I would loose my stakes too easily. So now i'm using Lawson reflective figure 8'ed on the stake which is then accached to the lineloc hook. this gives me the ability to skin my tarp in good weather and have an even quicker deploy in foul weather with the lines already to go.
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FP's comment about the bulk of lines and saving some pack space is a very good one; his argument for weight savings is also valid, but I think it's fair to caution not to overestimate the weight savings of going to smaller line.Originally Posted by Foxpoop
Lash-It (1.75mm) weighs about 0.5 grams per foot. Dutch Wire (1.1) weighs about 0.33 grams per foot. If you have a typical hex tarp with four 6-foot guy lines, using whatever compatible hardware you choose, you're only going to save 4 grams by switching to Dutch Wire. Even with the aforementioned 10-tie-out winter tarp using generous 10-foot guy lines, the most you can save on line alone between these two options is about 16 grams, a little over half an ounce.
The hardware has minimal differences in weight, but again, the practical weight penalty or savings is pretty minimal. A 1/2" Beastee Dee ring weighs less than half a gram. Classic LineLoc 3s weigh 1.33 grams each, while the Line Loc Lights weigh just a gram. The Tarpworm and all its variants weigh around 0.9 grams each. There are many possible styles and methods for using this hardware to connect the tarp to the guy line, but generally LineLocs are installed permanently and directly on the tarp corners, while Tarpworms employ a small loop of Dyneema or shock cord, which counts agains the 0.4 grams each one saves over a LineLoc. The most direct comparison between Dutch bling and conventional tie-out hardware would be a LineLoc Light versus a Silkworm; both are slotted tensioning connectors that attach permanently and directly to the tarp corners and weigh about a gram each, so the only salient differences there are strength, style of use, and cost.
On strength, despite the surprising durability of even the slimmed-down LineLocs, Dutch's titanium hardware is obviously stronger and more durable over the lifetime of the tarp. Style of use is mostly a personal preference, as all of these hardware options really work quite well, although the Tarpworms can be a little tricky to work with one hand. The Dutch bling does cost several times what the LineLocs do per corner, but that's the price of being cool and having everything work so elegantly.
The bottom line is that one would be hard-pressed to save a full ounce of weight between choosing the heaviest of these options and the lightest, so other factors really need to figure in. In the end, I think the weight savings (and even pack space savings) are pretty minimal -- for me not being much of a gram weenie -- so trailworthiness and function versus cost wind up being most important to what hardware I choose to complete a particular build. I have tried and used most of these hardware options at some time in the last year, and I'm just glad that Dutch sells all of them. HYOH.
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When I moved over to 1.1 from LineLoc3s, I had been using Lawson 2mm Glowwire at 1.1 grams/ft.
I switched to Litesmith reflx 1.1 line which weighs only .28 grams/ft, so my weight savings were definitely worthwhile to me. The bulk savings were also a nice byproduct.
I still use mini linelocs on my adjustable clew underquilt with Litesmith 2mm reflective shock cord and really like them for that application.
It's not that you can't use shock cord with Line loc 3's. It's the application in which one utilizes.
For a tarp setup, the LineLoc 3's won't bite securely enough into shock cord, and the constant tension will be lost over time due to the length of shock cord needed for the application in a guy out or side pull outs.
Your guy out lines should have minimal stretch for perimeter guy out's for PU Sil, because the tarp will have some stretch in it to begin with, due to the nature of nylon.
CF/Dyneema has almost zero stretch whatsoever and therefore needs to be pulled a taught as possible for propper structural integrity and effective coverage.
If you're using a CF/Dyneema tarp with side pullouts(wall,not perimeter ) and optionally, the doors if your tarp has them, allowing for some forgiveness during severe windy and rainy conditions, is a great insurance policy. Hence, a small shock cord.
A long section of shock cord has to travel too far to be effective in a tarp setup application for guyout's.
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