The Shinetsu Trail (http://www.s-trail.net/english/) was something I had wanted to do for a while and I filed away notes, websites and maps waiting for the right time. That time came on October 4th and I had three weeks to finalize my trip.
The trail is about 80km crossing two prefectures in northern Japan. My plan was to cross it in 4 days. I corresponded with the very friendly and informative staff of the Shinetsu Trail Organization. I told them of my intention to hammock camp and I tried to pry as much information as possible about hanging possibilities at their campsites with no luck.
The weather during my trip had forecasted cloudy most days and rain for the last night and day. The hi/lo temps stated 19/10c (66/50f).
With all information I thought I had in hand, I made my gear list: https://lighterpack.com/r/3qj8fe
Fortunately at the last minute, I changed to a warmer under quilt, packed a down jacket and long sleeve shirt instead of short sleeves (spoiler alert: it got really cold).
DAY 1
I grabbed the local train to Tokyo station in the morning to catch the Shinkansen. Picked up breakfast in a store at the station that sells bentos from across the region.
There were so many meal boxes to choose from
I waited for the Hokuriku Shinkansen that would take me to Iiyama in Nagano prefecture.
My ride arrives promptly at 8:44am
I was a little nervous and anxious of what awaits so I decided on something light and had Kamakura ham sandwiches as my bento. The newest Shinkansen in JR East’s fleet had power outlets for everyone.
Arrived at Iiyama at 10:33am.
I headed straight to the Outdoor Activity Center on the first floor of the station to register and pay for my campsite (1000 yen per site a night). The center also sells all sorts of camp gear and any last minute items. There was a small MontBell booth next door as well.
While waiting 2 hrs for the bus to take me up to the trail head, I took the time to talk to the staff and see what I could further learn about hammocking on the trail... no joy. I was going in blind.
I was the only person on the bus that took me to the final stop at Madarao Kougen Hotel. The area of Madarao is better known for its ski resort rather than the start of Shinetsu trail.
The first climb of the day up a ski slope.
Looking back
It got much colder than I had anticipated as the clouds blew mist and winds gusting relentlessly.
Made my way to the start of the Shinetsu Trail...no view, just this and a map showing the whole trail.
The first part of the trail hits a ridgeline that crosses several ski slopes and lifts.
Lake Nojiri?
Headed down for camp and hit a wetlands on the way
Campsite at Akaike (Red Pond).
I resigned myself to sleeping on the ground but noticed some trees before reaching the tent site...
I was glad to be off the ground because it rained throughout the night with temp dropping to around 8c. I slept confidently dry and well.
DAY 2
Morning before packin’
The start of the hike took me across another wetland before hitting another pond.
The trail passed by some interesting sights and views...
The sun was out in full glory. By the afternoon I reached the next tent site along the trail, Katsuraike.
No place to hang...
...but glad to find some bottled water left by the Trail Organization
My plan had me staying at the Tonpei tent site but that would take me down the trail and I knew the hardest day was ahead. I decided to press my luck and move on and hope to find a place to hang along the way.
The trail on the ridge was narrow with dense vegetation on both sides. You could not escape the trail if you wanted. I was constantly looking around but there were not a lot of suitable places to hang.
I finally spotted a nice place but I still had some more daylight and wanted to cover more ground. The map showed three trails converging further up ahead so I continued to press my luck.
It was a tight squeeze but luck was on my side as I made it work.
Unfortunately, a constant barrage of cold wind blew through the ridge and stole warmth from my under quilt. I was glad I kept a shortened zlite pad and stuffed that under me and somehow managed a few hrs of sleep.
Full moon visible all night
DAY 3
“Woke up” before 5, slowly packed while winds were still howling and continued on my way. No coffee, and breakfast was on the go.
I realized yesterday that the trail became more of a mental challenge. I only met up with two other day hikers since day 2. The trail became monotonous offering very limited views. There were multiple climbs that ended with no rewards of a vista. I often sloshed in ankle deep mud and continuously played tree limbo/hurdles.
I do not want to play this game
I started to worry about my water situation but there were a few swampy ponds along the way. To collect from there would sacrifice getting knee deep in mud...
Luckily I came across another aid station with bottled water at Busuno Pass.
That said there were some points along the way worth snapping a photo
I had to hurry to the next campsite as another cold rainstorm would roll in the evening.
Reached Nonomi tent site as the rain really started to pick up. This site has three possible places to set up a hammock.
I was pleased to discover I could charge my batteries at the outhouse.
I had the best night of sleep during the whole trip even though the rain was its fiercest and coldest.
DAY 4
I ended up waking up an hr later than planned.
Goal for that day was to finish the trail and reach Morimiyanohara station by the afternoon. Else, I would have to wait more than four hours in the small village for the next train and would not get back home until way later in the evening.
I raced up the next set of muddy hills and reached the final peak on Mt Amamizu an hour and a half later.
It took another two hours and a hitchhike from a rice farmer to get me back down the village and to the station. But all along the way, I finally got some views my mind desperately sought.
I had more than an hour to spare and the stationmaster recommended a roadside market less than 10 minutes away.
Vegetable tempura, soup with assorted mushroom, rice and pickled vegetables. All picked and grown nearby and absolutely delicious.
I ended up buying 5kg of rice and some other delectable omiyages.
All in all, it was a different trip than I imagined. I think my opinion would have changed if the foliage actually reflected the colors of fall. Summer would be brutal.
I’ll probably remember this as type 2 fun and will eventually forget about the mud, bonking and banging into trees. That feeling of marching on a desolate path will disappear and be replaced with fonder memories of magnificent wetlands, rice paddies and ponds.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by wa4chq
Bookmarks