Tensahedron Stand

[Headshed]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/z8xUXfB7NsnxuBa66

Here's how I connected my tubes, 5mm dyneema cord formed into a loop and then joined with 2 double overhand stopper knots. I did chamfer the holes but I have noticed some abrasion to the cord, I have a lot of it spare so I can afford to treat it as a consumable, at least while I tinker.

[RMC0109]

Very clever design; I'd imagine if you staked out both sides it may be a bit more stable for those who move around in their sleep.

[cjclint]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/z8xUXfB7NsnxuBa66

Here's how I connected my tubes, 5mm dyneema cord formed into a loop and then joined with 2 double overhand stopper knots. I did chamfer the holes but I have noticed some abrasion to the cord, I have a lot of it spare so I can afford to treat it as a consumable, at least while I tinker.

Have you considered installing plastic grommets in the holes to help prevent abrasion? Holes will need to be larger but should not cause any problem.

[Latherdome]

Very clever design; I'd imagine if you staked out both sides it may be a bit more stable for those who move around in their sleep.

It’s more stable than you’d think. Hanging a pack or similar off the head end stabilizes further. Still, at least a few owners of the commercial version routinely guy both ends. This does help keep it in place in high winds when unoccupied. You can also stake down the base without adding another trip hazard. Also any tarp needs staking down, which serves to hold down the head end as well.

Only reason we don’t include/advise a second guy line in commercial version is that reliance on it suggests improper setup (inadequate tilt), which sort of spoils the magic with unnecessary complication, and can stress the poles more than our (400lbs) test conditions covered. Guying both ends with any significant tension increases the buckling force on the poles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[horvathcom]

I think i can generalize that the 4 poles should be between 8 and 9 feet long. If steel, 1” diameter. If aluminum, 1.5”. If wood/bamboo: 2”. You can get away with less if you’re careful, lucky, or accept a lower capacity. As for line dimensions, make them all adjustable. Connections: easiest to drill holes through near the ends and loop cordage through: floppy not rigid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How floppy is floppy? If have O rings on the ends of the poles, and to connect them rather than using cord or chain, I was going to use a screw lock oval carabiner.

This allows ever thing to move around but won’t cut like cord might.

I haven’t had a chance to try it all together yet except once in the basement without enough weight to hold down the end, which resulted in some dinged ceiling tiles.

If it really needs to be floppy, does chain work?

As you can probably tell, I don’t trust my knots!





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Jacko1066]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/z8xUXfB7NsnxuBa66

Here's how I connected my tubes, 5mm dyneema cord formed into a loop and then joined with 2 double overhand stopper knots. I did chamfer the holes but I have noticed some abrasion to the cord, I have a lot of it spare so I can afford to treat it as a consumable, at least while I tinker.

Nice set up buddy!!

Tbh I was thinking about using 6mm clevis pins and R clips so that there is still movement like in the photo
Would it work ok? I just have no idea how tight to tie it lol!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Latherdome]

Harlan Lerum II posted the following nicer writeup on the unaffiliated Hammock Forums Facebook group. Reposted with permission:












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GadgetUK437]

Harlan has done a nice write up there. But I do have two issues with it, things that might send folk (who are less capable of independent thought) down a certain path; one major and one minor.
The major one - attaching the hammock to a cross-tie 2 foot from the apex. This puts a significant bending force into the tubes, which you can get away with using hefty stuff, like fence rail. But try that with lighter weight stuff and you may well end up on your derrière.
And the minor one - using fence rail end caps. Although convenient, I can envision folk stressing about getting a-hold of these, when it would be simpler to just drill a hole in the ends.

I tell you what would be cool, getting Derek Hansen to knock up some illustrations, he is partial to a nice hammock stand. He could add it to his Ultimate Hang website/book.

[Headshed]

Have you considered installing plastic grommets in the holes to help prevent abrasion? Holes will need to be larger but should not cause any problem.

I'm looking into flexible tubing to go through larger holes or 2mm-3mm dia wire instead of the cord. May even get a 3m length of 25mm dia tube, cut into 4 pieces and then split the 4 20mm tubes in half and slot it all together. Tinkering is the way forward.

[Latherdome]

... The major one - attaching the hammock to a cross-tie 2 foot from the apex. This puts a significant bending force into the tubes, which you can get away with using hefty stuff, like fence rail. But try that with lighter weight stuff and you may well end up on your derrière.
And the minor one - using fence rail end caps. Although convenient, I can envision folk stressing about getting a-hold of these, when it would be simpler to just drill a hole in the ends.

I made exactly the same comment to Harlan on the first point, seeing no benefit versus always attaching to the ends. You can actually see the poles bending inward in the photos in the 7th and 8th frames, with the stand occupied. Still likely strong enough, but why push luck?

And I had the same thought on the second point about holes versus caps. At least the end caps don’t necessitate cleanly deburring/chamfering the holes to avoid cutting whatever cordage used, and they pop on and off so no need to thread and tie/untie each time. Raftingtigger and I until very recently have debated merits of each approach for commercial version.

I think Harlan’s main contribution, apart from the generosity of drawing, photographing, detailing build, is identifying cheap 10’ swaged steel poles as easy to cut in 2 for transport and reassembly. They can of course be cut down further as 10’ is almost too much for anybody, but 10’ gives luxurious tarp coverage with ample headroom. And that fat steel tubing can handle the extra length, roughhousing, and even sub-optimal cordage attachment.

Re Derek, we’re planning to send him a commercial sample real soon for his review; perhaps he’ll get the bug and draw up some DIY plans.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk