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  1. #1
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    Indoor Hanging Help Needed

    I'm considering purchasing the Adjustable Wall Anchor from Dutchware gear. I emailed them about my hanging situation. They assured me that I could hang a hammock on adjacent walls.....across a corner. However they couldn't answer this....

    The basement walls I'd like to hang from are cement clock. They have been framed with (I believe) 2x2 lumber and 1/4 inch paneling over the block walls. My question is....if I go through the paneling over a 2x2 (so as not to bow or break the paneling) and into the cement block, would that be sufficient to support the weight?
    For reference, I'm 200 pounds. hanging an 11' hammock. The Anchor seems to have 3-4 holes used to screw it into the wall. I'm just not sure that the weight distribution would be enough.

    If this would hold, what size and style screws would be needed?

    Here's a link to the anchors. https://dutchwaregear.com/adjustable-wall-anchor.html

  2. #2
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    I have these anchors also and too am 200 Lbs. and using an 11' hammock
    But my basement walls have 2 x 4's laid flat and they hold well.
    I would feel 2 x 2 would be on the weak side and you may want to go thru it and use a cement block anchor to secure it.
    Good luck

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by robertjackson View Post
    I have these anchors also and too am 200 Lbs. and using an 11' hammock
    But my basement walls have 2 x 4's laid flat and they hold well.
    I would feel 2 x 2 would be on the weak side and you may want to go thru it and use a cement block anchor to secure it.
    Good luck
    Thanks for the info. It’s possible that they are 2x4 laid flat. I haven’t got the stud finder out to check. Are yours just into the wood or all the way through into the basement wall?



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  4. #4
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    Mine are just into the studs
    i used lag bolts top and bottom holes and wood screw in center
    holds great

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by robertjackson View Post
    Mine are just into the studs
    i used lag bolts top and bottom holes and wood screw in center
    holds great
    Great. Thanks again!!


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  6. #6
    Senior Member Grumpy Squatch's Avatar
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    If you go through the studs into the block, the construction of the studs doesn't matter. 2x2 or 2x4 won't make a difference.

    But your situation sounds fishy and dangerous to me for several reasons.

    First, concrete block isn't designed (usually) to handle much lateral loading. Each block is designed to work in compression. As a unit, the wall can hold back the pressure from the dirt outside, but you aren't anchoring into the whole wall, you're anchoring into a single block or two.

    Second, anchoring into the studs is only OK if they are secured properly. Like the blocks, studs are meant to handle compression loads generated by the weight of the structure above. They can twist and pull out under lateral loading easily. Some basements are finished with real walls where the top plate and bottom plate are securely anchored into the floor anf to the floor joists above. Some are just firring strips nailed to the concrete block. These will never hold.

    I'm assuming you don't own the house because you don't know what's behind the paneling. The right answer here is to pull it down and find out and then build appropriate anchors once you understand what you're working with.

    If you're in a basement, can you hang from the ceiling (floor joists)? That's what I did. Appropriately blocked they resist twisting, the lateral load can be spread over several, and they handle the downward load easily. My system uses heavy duty eye bolts and chains.

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  7. #7
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    This guy hit it dead on^^^^
    Sometimes guys will just glue the stud to the block if it only to hold paneling


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  8. #8
    Senior Member Carrico's Avatar
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    It also depends on whether your blocks are filled or not,some basements they don't actually fill the cinder blocks up with concrete. if they're not filled there's no way they're going to hold you. I've been building houses for over 20 years and kind of grit my teeth and squint when I see people hanging off a two-by-four stud,they're just not designed for that kind of load. I've had studs snap on me trying to stand a10 foot 2 x 4 wall up while framing before. They might hold but if they do snap they're going to do a ton of damage to your wall. I hung my hammock in my living room and sleeping in it every night but I put my anchor bolts in my top plates. If you know your blocks are filled with concrete and you know how thick your block is, you should be okay if you get at least three and a half inch of penetration into the block itself and have a good anchor. I would suggest epoxying it in and not using some kind of a molly or concrete screw.
    By all means, let's argue about whether or not a hammock will hurt a tree. All the while ignoring the fact that there is an island of garbage the size of Texas floating in the Pacific ocean. Or how about the fact that over 75% of the world's nuclear reactors are leaking...

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the input, guys. Like i said, I wasn't sure if the anchor, spreading the weight over 2-3 blocks, would make a difference. I knew the wood (which ends up being 2x3's laid flat) probably wouldn't be enough to support the weight.

    We've owned the house for almost 5 years. But, part of the basement was finished by previous owners. I'm just learning as I go. I have hung a couple hammocks in an unfinished part of the basement from exposed 2x8 floor joists. I just used eye bolts and Eno indoor kits though the "side" of the joists. That worked great.
    However, now I'm trying to hang in the finished part (man cave, in progress). The joists aren't exposed and the ceiling is an older style tile.
    So, although I haven't completely abandoned the Dutchware anchors, I'm still trying to figure out a way to hang without resorting to a stand in the middle of the floor.
    One idea is to "attach" a 2x4 or 4x4 to the wall across the same corner(still through the 2x3 and block wall just to hold it in place) .....but put a top rail on those and hang from the top rail. That way the weight would be downward instead of outward from the wall.
    I also have a DIY Spurtle Stand that I considered using the same way....Spurtle attached to the wall, bottom rails angled at 45 degrees with the wall....to eliminate the end-to-end swaying i get when i use it in the yard.
    I've also got permission from the GF) to go up through the finished ceiling with single eye bolts into the 2x8 joists......provided i can find them. But, again, I don't know if those would be enough to support the weight.
    It's frustrating. But, that's part of the fun of the hobby.
    One thing I know....I WILL be hanging in that room, eventually. Lol

  10. #10
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    I prefer to anchor across multiple studs. I used SuperStrut, and crossed from one wall to an adjacent wall at an angle. My son (170lbs) has slept in that configuration for 2 years now.

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