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  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    +1 on the J-Bend

  2. #12
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cabmanhang View Post
    +1 on whatever Phantom Grappler suggests about knots. He is the knot master.

    Also suggest taking a look at the J bend. I've had some great personal success using this knot with zero slippage.

    The guy with some eyebrows shows you in this video:



    PG, is this very much like the Carolina Becket, only msh on the strap, as opposed to larks head on the continuous loop?
    They are different knots—-Cabman, both get there


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  3. #13
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    J Bend is a modified marlin spike hitch, using amsteel loop from hammock as toggle.
    Carolina Becket Hitch is a modified becket hitch
    CBH not well tested
    J Bend named after Theguywitheyebrows has been tested and it’s being employed successfully


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  4. #14
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    J Bend is a modified marlin spike hitch, using amsteel loop from hammock as toggle.
    Carolina Becket Hitch is a modified becket hitch
    CBH not well tested
    J Bend named after Theguywitheyebrows has been tested and it’s being employed successfully


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    You think I can cut off the damaged last few feet of the dyneema strap...melt after cut so first split? I know nothing about dyneema..


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  5. #15
    New Member
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    Get some dutchwware!

  6. #16
    OlTrailDog's Avatar
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    Many times the sheet bend, aka Becket, can be wrapped twice before inserting the bight (if using a slippery knot for untying quickly) under the strap. Have you tried wrapping twice versus the once for a standard Becket Sheet bend?

    I actually used the double about an hour ago when swapping the Sparrow in place of the WBBB XLC.

  7. #17
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by saltysack View Post
    You think I can cut off the damaged last few feet of the dyneema strap...melt after cut so first split? I know nothing about dyneema..


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    I would not hang on damaged section
    If you cut away damaged strap—-will it still reach?



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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    I would not hang on damaged section
    If you cut away damaged strap—-will it still reach?



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    Basically cut off the last 3’....15’ straps would now be 12’...


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  9. #19
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Recently started using 15’ dyneema tree straps with Becker hitch on my chameleon but.....

    That should be good. And if you have to span more distance—-some use dogbones amsteel with loops spliced on both ends fastened with toggles or larks head or most likely carabiners that are rated 1100 pounds or so.
    Also you can quickly join amsteel to amsteel or amsteel to straps with zeppelin bend——my favorite is slipped zeppelin bend.


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    Last edited by Phantom Grappler; 03-19-2018 at 05:00.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    You don't say what the angle from horizontal you were hanging from. I don't think everyone realizes how much a shallow angle can increase the effective weight. Same for dynamic weight vs. static weight. Very easy for 350lbs to become effectively 1,000 lbs or more.

    Likewise, on the flip side, knots and hardware can decrease the effective strength of suspension systems by half or more. A 1,500 strap can become 750 lbs strong.

    Some of the reasons for healthy margins of safety. I suspect a majority of experienced hammockers use a 5-to-1 rule of thumb, some use up to 10-to-1.

    In other words, if you had 350 lbs in the hammock, you want each and every piece of suspension to be rated somewhere from 1,750 lbs to 3,500 lbs, if you want a 5-to-1 to 10-to-1 margin of safety.

    Just sharing ideas, since you asked for ideas why you had a failure.
    Last edited by Rain Man; 03-18-2018 at 22:06.
    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

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