When I use skins on my Hex I roll the tarp from one end straight up the vertical. This by default rolls up a significant part of the remainder of the tarp not as tight but at least to 3/4 of the length. Pull the first skin 1/3 of the way go to the other end and bunch up the loose unfurled and roll up. Pull second skin and then complete the first skin pull. This is no different using shock cords with a nail knot as they just slide over the furled tarp without having to open them up. I prefer the skins as they keep a wet tarp from shedding water everywhere but it is a bit bulkier if you then try and stuff in a sack. I roll my skins in a sort of flat oval and wrap the ridge line around to keep compacted. However I dont have the sinlon tarp so its not as light as the more expensive version and packs bigger.
Bazza
Comparing the snake skins to the sc loops is not really valid.
With the snake skin, you are pulling the skin onto the tarp and the portion covered, stays covered.
With the sc loops you have to pull each loop from the end of the tarp into position. Each loop has to traverse the same portion of the tarp that previous loops traversed.
If the first sc loop is set into position as closest to the end, then all subsequent sc loops must be pulled over the first sc loop. All sc loops must be pulled over the same portion of the tarp and all previous loops.
If the first sc loop is positioned furtherest from the end and the same pattern followed for all subsequent loops, then all of the end portion of the tarp must be re-bunched and hand held while each and every loop is pulled into position.
That is a whole lot more work than a snake skin and a whole lot more work than having each loop pre-prositioned along the ridge line.
Just my opinion from experimenting with various options for furling string material and furling string positions and from a few months of furling my tarp and having used 2 different snake skin designs.
But then the decision to furl or not to furl and the means of furling is very much determined by personal preference anyway.
I know people whose only consideration for storing their tarp is to stuff it into a mesh pocket on their pack and they think anything more complicated is crazy. Maybe they're right
Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.
Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)
Buliding on previous ideas, I made 3 Tarp Ridegline Reefing cords that weigh 2 grams each. For the BigMamajamba, it seems to only require 3 cords at 6 grams total.
1. Make loop at each end of small 12" shock cord (1gram).
2. Larkshead one end to small plastic mitton hook (1gm)
3. Then larkshead the hook through the other loop onto the RL.
4. Roll tarp up and hook the mitten hook to either the SC or RL
With SC, it can be easily moved up and down the RL but has enough tension to stay in place.
Works fine whether RL is over or under. If RL is under (like mine), just flip one side of the tarp over to the other side and it will now be hanging as an over the tarp RL for purposes of rolling up the tarp onto the reefing cords.
PS- not sure if I have the terminology correct for some of this!
I am sorry for re-opening this thread after 2+ years, but I felt it was more valid than starting a new one.
Following on the ideas of this thread and primarily Hokie's, I used 12" of shock cord and a Dutch hook to make my furling connectors. Made a large loop with a double fisherman's knot, putting the shock cord through the Dutch hook, then larksheaded around the RL, wrapped around the tarp and then snapped into the RL. Works beautifully.
Ellis
Last edited by alrany187; 09-10-2012 at 18:41.
Don't apologize! This is great!
I'm thinking of ditching my snake sins for this setup.
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
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