Full Strength STLs

[TeeDee]

I've tried both types of Self Tensioning Lines, STLs, but both have features that I don't like.

Saw Opie's thread on using Silicone Tubing and decided that should solve one problem I've had with STLs.

The things I didn't like about the 2 types of STLs are:

1. Tubing STLs
   
   1. UV resistence of latex tubing - poor
   2. Low temperature performance of Latex - poor
   3. Knots reduce rope strength
2. Shock Cord STLs
   
   1. plethora of lines tangle easily

I tend to prefer the tubing STLs over the shock cord STLs because of the problem of all those cords with the shock cord STLs. 2 runs of shock cord and 1 run of cord just seems to tangle on me. The only solution I found was to un-tie the STLs on take down and re-tie on set-up - a hassle.

I use the guy line for other duties as necessary when in the field: lashing, pulling objects, hauling, etc. So I get the guy cord such as the Zing-It and Dynaglide with the highest rating possible.

I didn't like the tubing STLs because with the highest strength cord I can find for guy lines, it seemed rather a waste of money to spend that much on something like the 2 mm Dynaglide and then cut the rating by 50% to 60% by tying 2 over hand knots for the STLs.

Well, since Opie solved my first 2 problems with tubing STLs, I set out last week to solve the last.

My solution: use something else to make the "bumps" in the cord to hold the tubing in place other than overhand knots. Looked around and found another size of the same silicone tubing to use for the bumps. I now use silicone tubing with a 5/16" ID and 7/16" OD for the STL tubing and silicone tubing with a 1/8" ID and 1/4" OD for the bumps.

Here's the materials I start with:

1. guy line cord with fixed eyes spliced on each end
2. 2 4" cable ties
3. 12" dyneema "thread" - I pull a strand of dyneema from a 12" length of Amsteel
4. appropriate length of large diameter silicone tubing, 7/16" OD, 5/16" ID, for outer tube of STL
5. appropriate length, 1/4", of small diameter silicone tubing, 1/4" OD, 1/8" ID, for making the "bumps" - 2 required
6. cable tie "gun" to tighten cable ties. Not shown and optional, but well worth the $4 or $5 investment

Slip the short lengths of smaller diameter tubing on the cord and position at the eye juncture:



Then use the dyneema thread to stitch the tube in place:



I make 3 stitches and tie the thread off with a reef knot (I probably end up with a Granny a lot of times - doesn't seem to make any difference here).

You can then position and stitch the second small tube in place at this time or position it and stitch later.

Slip the larger diameter tubing over the cord and the small diameter tube sections:



Position a cable tie and tighten, then peel the tubing back over the cable tie to finish off:



Don't worry about getting it positioned tight against the small tubing since it will slide up against the small tubing when you pull on it.

Repeat for the other end.

Done:



I takes me approximately 15 minutes to complete a single STL. The most time consuming operation is stitching the small tube sections in place, but even that can be done pretty quickly.

I now have STLs using the tubing method. The lines don't tangle, the silicone tubing has a spec'd operating ranging from -94° F up to several hundred °F - the limits which I shall never test .

I have retained the full strength of the cord and can safely use it for other tasks.

Thanks to Opie for the idea of using the Silicone tubing - fantastic idea.

I probably could have used something else besides the small diameter silicone tubing the replace the overhand knots, but the silicone tubing has all the UV and cold temperature properties I wanted.

[opie]

Very well done TeeDee!!

Another thing I like about the silicone tubing is it allows it to blend in better with the color of the line.

[Knotty]

Where do you get silicone tubing?

[vitamaltz]

That's a great innovation but mostly I'm impressed with those service manual-style photographs. Beauty!

[trigger hurt]

McMaster-Carr has a good selection. In fact, McMaster-Carr has just about anything you'd ever need.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#tubing/=5x43j9

[JerryW]

Nicely done TeeDee.

I've been using the O-ring style tensioners since fall and the O-rings are failing, one per trip lately. I'm going to go back to the tubing style and I'll have to look into that clear silicone tubing. Looks neat!

Jerry

[TeeDee]

That's a great innovation but mostly I'm impressed with those service manual-style photographs. Beauty!

I guess the short time I did in the Army does show now and then

I still think the Armys Survival Manual is the most valuable book to take in the field.

Does anybody know of a book that size and portability for id'ing plants, edible and otherwise? With my memory, I simply do not trust it for that task.

[WV]

I like Acercanto's solution to line tangles.
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=14822
I haven't tried it yet, but probably will.

[JohnSawyer]

How's this:

http://www.abebooks.com/products/isbn/9781583551271

or
http://www.abebooks.com/products/isbn/9780913276174

Here's a long list of cheap books...

http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Sear...ts&n=200000237

good luck!

[Just Jeff]

Does anybody know of a book that size and portability for id'ing plants, edible and otherwise? With my memory, I simply do not trust it for that task.

I have some laminated tri-fold cards with ID info on them. I have one for animal tracks and used to have one for east coast plants...not sure where it went. I found these more useful than the books I had...not really sure why, but I just tended to use them more. Maybe it was the more convenient layout of having multiple pics on the same page to compare to rather than flipping pages in the book. I got these in state park visitor centers but I'm sure you can find them online.