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  1. #11
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhollyHamaca View Post
    Is it just me, or is anybody else having trouble with slipping lashings on EMT?
    For my initial test I did not want to damage the EMT, so I could return it if necessary. I experienced the exact same issue. The lashings at the top slipped and it did not work at all. That is why I drilled it and went with the bolt. I like this much better than the floppy loose ends of the commercial design. The issue you can run into with using bolts everywhere is you will bind and cause large bending forces in the structure. Thus one joint or the other needs the freedom to twist, turn, and rotate. I bolted the top and that joint is not firm, secure and fixed. Now the slipping of the lashing is an advantage. The poles are free to rotate, turn and twist within the lashing, thus the bolts do not bind. The lashing at the ground joint does not slip up or down the pole because the poles are engaged with the ground. After several set-ups take-downs and several afternoons using it, I have found no issues with the ground joint lashing. But, yes a lashing at the top end does not work.

    Also, hanging the hammock is super easy with a dogbone or soft shackle. The little nylon spacer is the key.

  2. #12
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P-Dub View Post
    I am sure this has been discussed in the other tensahedron threads, but seeing the 3/4" conduit version here has me thinking... how does one hang a longer tarp?? (mine is 12')

    I'm also thinking about how to make this stand with conduit so that can be collapsed, using diameters that will slip inside one another... (I made a bipod stand with 1" conduit and 1-5/8" fence top rail so I could take it apart and have a 42" package. Hoping to do the same with this stand but smaller diameter, lighter tubes.)

    Can't wait to try it!
    Thank you,

    The commercial version does not handle a 12' tarp. longest they recommend is 11'. That said, basically the tarp feeds through the "V" at the top of the poles and then can be guy'd out to a stake or tied back onto one of the poles. Last night I debated flipping the bolts around so the eye is outboard. This would allow a slightly longer tarp, but not 12'. I just used a different tarp than the one I used backpacking. I do not need a fancy expensive lightweight sil-nylon tarp, as the stand is for car camping.

    There is no reason that would not work and there is a youtube video from some guy in the UK that did a pole break down version. I would suggest that if you are looking to have poles that come apart, make them in 3 or 5 sections. The reason is you do not want a join at the center of the pole. This is the region of highest bending stress and most likely point of pole failure. The added benefit of a 3 section pole is you can put the largest diameter outer pole in the middle. This puts the biggest pole where the strength is needed and the end poles can be smaller to save weight.

    Speaking of weight. I did weigh my finished stand and it comes in at 14.5 lbs. (6.5 kg). Not to shabby if I say so myself.
    Last edited by jeff-oh; 08-23-2018 at 07:50.

  3. #13
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    Here is a look at my 11' tarp over the apex on my stand.....
    Shug



    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  4. #14

    Join Date
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    DYI Tensahedron Hammock Stand

    100” poles are good for 11’ tarp. Longer poles will easily accommodate longer tarps, at expense of load capacity for any given pole spec. 3/4” EMT seems stout enough at least up to around 200lbs at 96”-100”. How much can it handle at say 110”, that should be enough for 12’ tarp?

    Simple test method is to invite more and more people of known weight into hammock. Have them bounce a bit. When you see the poles start to bow half their diameter, you’re looking for trouble.
    Last edited by Latherdome; 08-23-2018 at 15:01.
    --
    Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4 tensahedron hammock stand, and the Tensa Solo ultralight flavor too.
    http://tensaoutdoor.com/

  5. #15
    STinGa's Avatar
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    2 quick questions ... why did you go with the EMT rather than a chain link fence top rail? Would plasti-dip be the solution to the sliding lashings?

    Thanks,
    STinGa
    Sarcasm is a dying art.

    Eagle Scout September '85 Troop 339 Smyrna, TN

  6. #16
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latherdome View Post
    100” poles are good for 11’ tarp. Longer poles will easily accommodate longer tarps, at expense of load capacity for any given pole spec. 3/4” EMT seems stout enough at least up to around 200lbs at 96”-100”.
    By analysis, for my configuration (96" legs, 50* set up angle and 60" splay, 350 lb load) the 3/4" EMT has a buckling MS of 2.1. I have tested to 400 lbs with no noticeable leg flexure. Flatter angles, than my set up will increase loading.

    Quote Originally Posted by STinGa View Post
    2 quick questions ... why did you go with the EMT rather than a chain link fence top rail? Would plasti-dip be the solution to the sliding lashings?
    STinGa
    Honestly, the EMT was at the front of the store and inexpensive. Also, EMT has the smaller diameters, which weight less and have adequate strength. I solved the sliding lashing problem by bolting the poles together. I never intended to lash the top joint. I only did a top lash as a trial so that I could return the EMT to the store if the 3/4" EMT proved to have insufficient strength. The bolted joint provides superior stability and load transfer to that of a loose cable joint. There is not a lashing slippage issue at the ground end. If you were concerned then a short rope or cable tether would work also. FYI Eagle '83 T433 Greenhills, OH

  7. #17
    https://creativeshelters.com/product/connector_FC-A

    I bought 4 of these so I can break mine down for my trunk
    They work great!04C64C88-09FC-4BC3-BB89-615ABEF29E9F.jpg

  8. #18
    New Member Trail Trekking's Avatar
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    Your post has motivated me to give this stand a shot. I purchased the materials at Lowe’s yesterday and will throw it together Friday evening. I will be attaching a warbonnet blackbird to the stand. It has a Ridgeline length of 101 inches. Given the size of the hammock, should I change the location of the eyebolt?

  9. #19

    Join Date
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    Here's some pics of the connections on my chain link fence top rail tensahedron stands...

    To make it easier to transport them, I cut the rails in half, flipped the swedged end, and then inserted it back into the other side. This worked well & didn't come apart in initial tesing... until... I got my center of gravity on the wrong side of the center line, the whole thing tacoed (I didn't have the foot end tethered), and the ends came loose & slingshotted. Very "exciting" & I was lucky that no one was hurt & no property was damaged. Drilled 1/4" holes in the midpoint where the swedged ends fit in & secured with locking pins. Tested with some intentional (?) catastrophic taco events & this seems to have successfully resolved the "slingshotting poles" issue.

    For the end connections, an inch-and-a-half from the ends I drilled 1/2" holes, filed them smooth, then lined them w/ 3/8" grommets. Amsteel continuous loops are fed through the holes & looped around the ends. This seems to work very well. Hammock suspension connects directly to the Amsteel ends.

    tensa.4.jpg
    tensa.5.jpg
    tensa.1.jpg
    tensa.2.jpg
    tensa.3.jpg
    Enjoying my fall into the rabbit hole...

  10. #20
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by fivefreds View Post
    ... I cut the rails in half, flipped the swedged end, and then inserted it back into the other side. This worked well & didn't come apart in initial tesing... until... I got my center of gravity on the wrong side of the center line, the whole thing tacoed (I didn't have the foot end tethered), and the ends came loose & slingshotted. Very "exciting" & I was lucky that no one was hurt & no property was damaged. Drilled 1/4" holes in the midpoint where the swedged ends fit in & secured with locking pins. Tested with some intentional (?) catastrophic taco events & this seems to have successfully resolved the "slingshotting poles" issue.

    For the end connections, an inch-and-a-half from the ends I drilled 1/2" holes, filed them smooth, then lined them w/ 3/8" grommets. Amsteel continuous loops are fed through the holes & looped around the ends. This seems to work very well. Hammock suspension connects directly to the Amsteel ends.
    Yikes! That had to be scary! Glad nobody was hurt by those flying attack-poles and that you have the sections secured now. Fence rail is HEAVY when it breaks free and comes after you. Normally I'd say "Don't fear the taco" and practice taco'ing a few times to get past it, but not like you experienced!

    Great pics. I especially like your CLs through and then around poles for the joints! Easier to make than soft shackles and IMO much preferable to hardware.

    For future reference, source for the grommets you used? Please let us know how they hold up with Amsteel rubbing on them. My current stand is 3/4" EMT, so I'll want smaller grommets that fit 1/4" holes. but may need to use fence rail for my brother.

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