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  1. #1
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    DYI Tensahedron Hammock Stand: w/Pictures

    I just finished building a Tensahedron hammock stand. Wow could nothing be easier? Thank you Leatherdome for the inspiration.

    IMG_2077 (2).jpg

    Material List:
    4x 3/4" x 10' EMT
    2x eye-bolt 1/4"-20 x 3" need 2 /12" shank length with nuts. You can also use 2 1/2" hex bolts.
    2x 1/4" Nylon spacer
    Paracord

    Tools:
    Tape measure
    Drill w/ 1/8" and 1/4" bits
    Spanner
    Hack saw

    Cost ~$25.00 at Home Depot. Assembly Time < 1 hour

    1) Line drilled 1/4" holes through EMT pipe at 96" (8') from one end. (4X).
    2) Assembled 2 pipes together with the eye-bolt, placing the nylon spacer between the pipes. The eye is placed so that it faces inboard.
    IMG_2082.jpg
    3) Shear lashed the legs of the pole sets together ~2" from the end. I used one piece for para-cord with 60" (5') of cordage between the legs to control splay. If you are not good at knots, then you could always drill a hole near the bottom of the legs and tie them together with a loop of para-cord through the holes. Trick is you want them a little loose to each other so they do not bind up the bolt at the top as you set it up and take it down.
    IMG_2087.jpg
    The now assembled Tensahedron Hammock stand is ready to set up. Heavy ground stakes and para-cord was used to tether each end.
    The hammock is hung on soft shackles that loop over the nylon spacer. Do not attach hammock to the eye bolt. You will apply too much bending force and bend the bolt.
    h7.jpgh8.jpg
    with the hammock hung the tarp can be attached. I attached a 10' tarp with no load carabiners to the eye-bolt.
    h2.jpg
    With no one in the hammock the tarp holds the weight of the poles, and the hammock ridgeline is just slack. When you get in the hammock, the hammock suspension will adjust to the proper angle which pulls the poles inward a little. This unloads the tarp and the hammock's ridgeline takes the longitudinal load. Adjusting the hammock suspension length such that the load is off the tarp but not so much that the tarp goes slack or sags.
    IMG_2080.jpg
    I am now ready to go to state parks or group camps where there are not good trees or not allowed to hang from trees. I found the stand to be quite stable, and very comfy. I used tethers on both ends and highly recommend that. Set it up such that one tether is a little loose and will allow the unit to rock ~2"-4". This set up also comes down and folds up nicely. I tie and wrap the tether lines to hold the poles together in storage. Folded dimensions are about 2" x 2" x 100". Little long to go in the trunk of a car, but the bed of a truck or the roof rack along side of the canoe/kayak no problem.

    Only thing left to do is trim the excess pole length... But only after another nap. h5.jpg

    I am very happy with this project. If you make one please let us know.
    Last edited by jeff-oh; 08-21-2018 at 07:12.

  2. #2
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Updated with pictures.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Uphill's Avatar
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    May 2013
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    Alexandria, Va
    Hammock
    11ft
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    DIY or Bullfrog
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    Cinch Bug
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    721
    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    Updated with pictures.
    Really interested in this, but the pictures after the lashing arenít loading .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Hammock
    WBBB XLC; WBRR
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    Superfly
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    Wooki UQ Mamba TQ
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    Whoopie
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    Even with the tarp not extending past the four poles, it seems that any rain falling straight down would follow the poles or the tether lines to the ground, bypassing the hammock. The exposed suspension leading to the hammock would get wet and might cause a minor issue, but I'm sure something could be rigged to cover them up as well. Thanks for the write up about your project and the pics.
    The game is the best teacher.

  5. #5
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Watertooner View Post
    Even with the tarp not extending past the four poles, it seems that any rain falling straight down would follow the poles or the tether lines to the ground, bypassing the hammock. The exposed suspension leading to the hammock would get wet and might cause a minor issue, but I'm sure something could be rigged to cover them up as well. Thanks for the write up about your project and the pics.
    I usually tie a drip line right ahead of the carabiner, which is covered. Only a driving rain would be an issue. In that case the corners of the square tarp could be brought together to make doors. If needed the eye bolt could be reversed and the tarp rotated 90deg to put the longer dimension (it is not truly square) longitudinal and then it would extend beyond the pole intersection. However. this is the configuration that caused the bolt to bend. If needed, could upgrade to a 1/4" to 3/8" grade 5 or grade 8 shear bolt.

    I'll see how this works and change as nature instructs.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Glen Allen, VA
    Hammock
    $20 Golden Eagle double
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    $20 10'x10'
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    89
    Beauty. Love it. I have yet to get my tarp dialed in right so I appreciate your description of what you've done. Condensation (tarp really close to hammock) is one of the problems I've tried to solve with only limited success.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Piedmont NC
    Hammock
    long and wide
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    HF green for now
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    faux baffled CDTs
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    204

    Lashing on EMT vs. drilling for loop joints

    Is it just me, or is anybody else having trouble with slipping lashings on EMT? I was using the method in ABOK that was posted in the original (really long now) Tensahedron Stand thread.

    When I made mine (3/4 EMT, 100" poles) I lashed the joints with paracord, but I found that they slipped several inches overnight on the smooth EMT, no matter how tight my wraps were around the poles and how many fraps. (Probably lashing would be fine on wood poles.) So I re-lashed them all and then tried to stop them from sliding again by adding a stainless steel hose clamp screwed very tight around each pole next to every joint, but the hose clamps also slipped overnight at least an inch on the poles, pushed along by the lashings. Not too bad for one night's use, but I'd like not to fix them every morning.

    So I then considered other ways to make the EMT poles "grippy" for those few inches underneath the lashings, like scoring the EMT with a file (probably not sufficient, and the tubes are thin-walled enough already), or wrapping friction tape or racquet/garden tool handle tape, or bicycle handlebar tape or handgrips (too bulky), or big heat shrink tubing, or Plasti-Dip, dots or rings of epoxy, etc etc.

    In the end I decided to give up on lashing EMT joints. In the long run it seems easier and more reliable to take the time to drill & chamfer holes near both ends of each pipe just above the rubber feet, and connect them with four 12" loops of uncoated wire rope, as some others have done. Tighten down hard on the loop connector screws. Cover the wire rope ends with a little heat-shrink or a blob of epoxy so they don't poke you or the carry bag.

    I'd rather use Amsteel soft shackle for the joints, like the commercial Tensa, but I'm out of Amsteel to make them, and anyway I'd want to protect the Amsteel against abrasion from the EMT: a wood dowel inside, drilled through along with EMT and the outside of the EMT hole rounded over with a rat-tail file? Add a ring of epoxy around the holes to cover the edges? Or some sort of rounded-edge grommets or thin tubes through the EMT holes that Amsteel won't cut through?

    Has anyone solved this, maybe from bridge hammock suspensions onto drilled-through spreaders? Or am I worrying about Amsteel abrasion that with frequent inspection won't be an issue for a long time?
    Last edited by WhollyHamaca; 08-22-2018 at 17:27.

  8. #8
    Senior Member zukiguy's Avatar
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    Space Coast FL
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    Go with the traction tape. I use the rubberized version made for stair treads. I've had some on my insulated mug for over a year and it's still holding just fine.

    I'm not inspired to try and convert my camo netting poles into a stand like this. These break down into 4' sections so I'll have to ponder what sort of length to use.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Piedmont NC
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    long and wide
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    Quote Originally Posted by zukiguy View Post
    Go with the traction tape. I use the rubberized version made for stair treads. I've had some on my insulated mug for over a year and it's still holding just fine.
    Thanks, zukiguy! I saw some gritty stick-on stair strips at Home Depot the other day. They looked like a possibility; don't know why I didn't grab them. I'm far from town but next time I can get there I'll buy some and try again. This is quick & easy if it holds the lashings. If this works I'll report back. May take a few days ...

  10. #10
    Senior Member P-Dub's Avatar
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    Ann Arbor MI
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    Good work!

    I am sure this has been discussed in the other tensahedron threads, but seeing the 3/4" conduit version here has me thinking... how does one hang a longer tarp?? (mine is 12')

    I'm also thinking about how to make this stand with conduit so that can be collapsed, using diameters that will slip inside one another... (I made a bipod stand with 1" conduit and 1-5/8" fence top rail so I could take it apart and have a 42" package. Hoping to do the same with this stand but smaller diameter, lighter tubes.)

    Can't wait to try it!

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