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  1. #91
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    If a knot on your continuous loop is ok with you, then you can make a shorter continuous loop than a splice will allow.
    But if you decide to splice and have an extremely short continuous loop, make a locked brummell first then bury your splices. A true locked brummell is shown in Grog Knots-Animated Knots by Grog as a first step in Grog Sling. A true locked brummell will not change loops circumference when any or all four ends are pulled.

    A good knot for a short continuous loop is a diamond knot, first make a locked brummell, then tie diamond knot. Tighten it towards the locked brummell and if you are worried knot will invert, make another locked brummell on other side of diamond knot.

    I致e used diamond knots on continuous loops for years and not used locked brummells and never had knot invert. I always tightened knot by hand and left tails long until knot had 都et from heavy loads洋e in hammock.

  2. #92
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    Phantom: Thanks for the heads-up re a CL with a true locked Brummell. The way the bury is shown, the bitter ends come back to the same side of the loop rather than following the loop around. I'm guessing there's enough margin in the strength of the Amsteel for it not to matter but I'm assuming that a CL made this way is somewhat compromised in terms of overall strength. Even if the buries were to cross over, the pass-throughs end up taking a load that doesn't occur in an end loop with a locked Brummel where ALL of the load is transferred to the bury.

    It may look cleaner than using a holding stitch with a CL with standard buries (without pass-throughs), but undoubtedly is a tad weaker. As you know, I'm no fan of doing pass-throughs that only LOOK like a locked Brummell that add no function.

    One more thing about making CLs as short as possible. Only one bury needs to be sufficiently long to achieve adequate strength. The other can be quite short. They should both be tapered however. One could argue that the tapered ends could even overlap!

    .
    Last edited by TominMN; 08-16-2019 at 05:17.

  3. #93
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    Collapsahedron 覧 my collapsing version of the Tensahedron

    Thanks gents. Again, these are my first CLs. I used the knowledge I gained after earning my five-minute splicing credential from YouTube University... so I'm certain there's room for improvement.

    I like the idea of a diamond knot here because it potentially lowers the minimum suspension length by a hair, which for this stand means a meaningful increase in sit height. Right now I have a loop small enough to keep the tips of the poles together without binding, but the small loop means I don't have enough room to connect the evo loops from my hammock directly to the suspension loops. I use carabiners on either end... which adds to the suspension length.

    So I'll look into that.

  4. #94
    Quote Originally Posted by Snaps View Post
    Thanks gents. Again, these are my first CLs. I used the knowledge I gained after earning my five-minute splicing credential from YouTube University... so I'm certain there's room for improvement.

    I like the idea of a diamond knot here because it potentially lowers the minimum suspension length by a hair, which for this stand means a meaningful increase in sit height. Right now I have a loop small enough to keep the tips of the poles together without binding, but the small loop means I don't have enough room to connect the evo loops from my hammock directly to the suspension loops. I use carabiners on either end... which adds to the suspension length.

    So I'll look into that.
    I've done 2 things to minimize hang distance.

    1) I connected each apex of my stand with a 4" length of amsteel with a knot on each end. I attach the evo loop on my hammock to the knot facing the middle of the stand and the loop of my ucr anchor line to the knot on the outside of the stand. With pull in each direction - hammock one way, anchor line the other - it pulls the 4" leg-connecting line taut, but still allows the legs to dynamically float a bit at the apex.

    2) I attach the evo loop on each end of my hammock to itself so it's shorter than when I attach with a larks head.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

  5. #95
    Senior Member
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    Collapsahedron 覧 my collapsing version of the Tensahedron

    Quote Originally Posted by rodentface View Post
    I attach the evo loop on my hammock to the knot facing the middle of the stand and the loop of my ucr anchor line to the knot on the outside of the stand.
    Interesting. Do you have a photo of this by any chance? I'm mostly curious how you fasten the evo loop to a knot. Is it just a half hitch?

    The spliced loops make for a clean connection, but I'm open to other ideas.

  6. #96
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    OK, I'm executing my DIY tarp extension idea today. I have no idea whether this will work, but I wanted to create some slip-on extension poles from 3/4" PVC pipe & fittings from which I can string my tarp. I figure with the stand deployed, a 45-degree fitting will give me a decent angle off of one of the pole apexes (apices?) from the foot end and one from the head end. From the fitting, I'll slide in a length of PVC, and then drill it for a ridgeline and cap it off.

    The trick is getting the shape inside of a 3/4" PVC fitting from a circle to a hexagon. I thought about molding the pole with silicone and then casting it in resin, but it'd be an extra $40 of materials that I don't have sitting in the shop already. So instead, figured I'd use the pole itself and shape the fitting by filling the gaps with JB Weld. I wrapped the end of the pole in foil and then slathered it with shoe polish as a release agent:

    IMG_0776.jpg

    For the fitting, I put a masking tape plug in it to keep the JB Weld out of the other end:

    IMG_0775.jpg

    ...then I filled the fitting and shoved it onto the pole, with some tape to hold it in place:

    IMG_0777.jpg

    I wasn't going to post this unless it worked, but since the JB Weld has to cure for 24 hours I guess I'm stuck waiting until tomorrow to see if this was a success or a failure. All of my photos are turned 90 degrees and it's not worth the effort to fix them!

  7. #97
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    Thrilled I found this thread!
    Poles are on the way, what is everyone using for foot end anchors, regular stakes or something like the big screws Tensa sells?

  8. #98
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    Collapsahedron 覧 my collapsing version of the Tensahedron

    Google "Big Orange Screw."

    Here are my extension adapters, cured but unfinished:

    IMG_0790.JPG

    I'll have to set it up to figure out what length of PVC I need for my tarp. I think I'll cut them long enough for my 12' tarp... because, why not. I'm not exactly low on weight with this stand.

  9. #99
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    Questions,
    About how far are you all spreading the "feet"
    Anyone using a UCR ridgeline? how long?

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffwoerner View Post
    Questions,
    About how far are you all spreading the "feet"
    Anyone using a UCR ridgeline? how long?
    Caveat: I don't have a collapsahedron, but last weekend I made a very simple tensahedron (see thread https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...sahedron-Stand)

    That said, spreading the feet is what adjusts the height of the hammock off the ground, so the correct answer is to spread the feet until the hammock is as high off the ground as feels comfortable to YOU.

    I just ran outside and took a few measurements, and for ME, and MY tensahedron with 8' poles, using my 9' hammock the legs are spread about 8'6". with my 11' hammock the spread is 6'0". These are what feels good right now, but I just built this stand and am still experimenting with it, so the distances may change a little bit with more use. but its a decent place to start.

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