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  1. #21

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Valpo, IN
    Towns-End Luxury Bridge
    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    We share at least one trait: being long winded. Many have told me that I am. And, I am. However, as a life long chronic reader, I don't mind if a good post is several paragraphs long. For me, big deal.

    However, I just wanted to say that was about the best single post I have read covering the subject of bridge hammocks. For some one that needs to know that info, and the pros ad cons of bridges, it is all there. Great post!
    Always felt that folks who don't like to read probably shouldn't participate in a text based communication board...

    Missed two items of note:

    As a frequent 'tester' myself with a bad back... something many of my testers and customers have come to agree on is that you often need about three nights to 'switch'. Much like doing a bit of exercise leaves you a bit sore or tender the next day... so can switching your sleep system. Humans are pretty adaptable creatures overall, but we also get habituated to things. So in any transition I tell folks to give it some time. Especially with bridges though as they carry your back a bit differently which can cause some discomfort. Some GE users report sore shoulders/upper back because of the way their weight is supported. Due to the way a bridge supports you it's easy to feel a bit tender. As someone who doesn't stretch often enough, I equate it with that same feeling. Stretching feels good in the long term, but in the short term it can be unpleasant. Much like a good soak in a hot tub can unkink some bound up muscles- those same muscles can release toxins in the process and leave you feeling stiff or sore the next day too. I find this happens often with bridges and can be an easy turn off- especially if you're swapping back and forth.

    This is neither good nor bad per say- just is what it is. Bridges generally sleep cooler... especially mine... and especially compared to a gathered end.
    On the plus side- in warm weather you've got a good clean breeze and more comfortable open bedspace to help out.
    When it's colder you've got to fight a bit harder.

    It can be very hard to fit an UQ to a bridge for some folks. Though some have zero issues and even find they are easier to use since you are sleeping inline with the quilt
    End bar bridges are much easier to fit than recessed bar bridges.
    Despite our description of a 'flat lay' in truth we really just mean that we are evenly supported.
    A gathered end still has a slight curve to it.
    An End Bar bridge also has a slight curve to it.
    A Recessed bar bridge can actually invert- meaning the center (your low back) is higher than your head and ankles. This can create two pools of dead air under your back and shoulders.

    Point being- underquilts are held up mainly by a shock cord primary suspension that you're supposed to settle into.
    With some bridges you need an extra 'pick me up' in the center, or ideally a custom quilt.

    Even if you get it all perfect: The simple fact is that heat rises.
    As you pump heat into your UQ... your top quilt is what prevents it from rising. However as a bridge body is flat and open... some of that heat migrates to the edges of the UQ/bridge and simply pumps away.
    With a gathered end your UQ wraps you- doing 2/3rds of the work. As a result your top quilt can be both minimally sized and even a bit lighter rating.
    With a bridge your UQ at best does half the work, but usually about a 1/3 (your back and a hair of your sides), while your top quilt must insulate 2/3rds of your body AND help trap rising heat from the UQ.
    Many hammock folks are used to using a mismatched set of quilts- this works well in the BMBH- but not very well in more open bridges.

    So while perfectly normal for ground dwellers to upsize a top quilt to stretch a sleeping pad.... that concept is counter-intuitive for an experienced gathered end hammock user and can be a source of frustration if switching.
    While not a silver bullet for bridge warmth... going a bit heavy on the top quilt helps drive the heat into the UQ.

    On the practical side... you can make anything work if you try hard enough.
    But around 20* or so it can be counterproductive to push your bridges. Pads aren't made for convective heat loss- the gold standard of backpacking pads (the Xtherm) works amazing into below zero temps for many folks... but fails around 25* in the air. On the plus side- just drop it down if you get an unexpectedly low night. And of course if there is snow on the ground that's comfy enough to sleep in too.
    And even I don't mind being in a little nest of down covered gathered end for a night or two on a winter weekend... no sense beating yourself against the wall when a simple solution is available.

  2. #22
    TrailSlug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Huntsville, AL
    Warbonnet RR / BlackbirdXLC
    Lynx / LocoLibre
    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    The only downside you might find with the Ridge Runner compared to your gathered end hammocks is its span, or tree distance, requirement. Two lines come off each end at the spreader bars. They meet and a metal "D-Ring" and continue to your suspension of choice - whoopie sling, webbing, daisy chain, etc. A recommended distance between those two D-rings is 13 ft. The angle can be more like 25 degrees rather than 30. A 15 ft tree distance will give about a foot of suspension beyond the D-Ring and a height on the tree between 50 and 70 inches, depending upon your desired hang angle.

    Because the Bridge is wider, you'll want to stake your tarp out wide and/or use pole mods, external or internal, to keep the tarp away from the spreader bars. You can buy little rubber guards to put on the spreader bar tips or may your own with scrap bicycle inner tube tire.

    Because the suspension need about 13 ft before they come to one point, you'll want a longer tarp if you want to completely close its doors. Even though the doors don't completely close, a SuperFly tarp has worked fine for many folks with the Ridge Runner. Also, 13 ft tarps are becoming more a standard option (Winter Dream, MountainFly, ThunderFly, etc.)

    Note that there are other bridge hammocks the don't have as much tree distance requirement.

    Caution: when getting in/out of a bridge it is important to put your hand on the far edge for stability. In order to drive this lesson home, watch
    If years of camping I've never once ran into an issue finding trees to work with my RR so I wouldn't let that be much of a concern.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Valpo, IN
    Towns-End Luxury Bridge
    Quote Originally Posted by goalie View Post
    What do you guys do for bug netting?

    I'm thinking that his luxury bridge would be ideal for me to try, but mosquitos are a thing here in MN.

    I'm 6' 185, so a WBRR shouldn't squeeze me too much, and they have the ready made UQ options......

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    Thus far I only had one return due to a bugnet issue- and that was for a gentleman in the southeast who lived in a bit of lowland area with very heavy bugs.
    The issue wasn't the bugs though but the heat.

    The advantage of the integrated bug net is that the net stops (roughly) at the edge of the bridge- so compared to the RR's net- other than the saddlebags there is no impediment to the open air flow under the bridge itself.
    As a Chicago guy I can appreciate both points here...
    When it's 90* and you are sleeping with no UQ in the bridge... that extra 5* or so you pick up from my bottom entry bugnet was enough to make it a deal breaker as the whole point is to sleep cooler.
    When your season is so short up north and dealing with bugs is a thing- you need to trust the net. But I would say that this person's issue was a fairly specialized one regarding the extra bit of heat trapped, rather than the effectiveness of the net itself.

    Two reasons I like my style of net (plus a bonus)-

    - If you do 'go to ground' then this type of net can be easily hung like a 'net tent' either under a tarp or by itself. Nothing against others who suggest setting up your hammock on the ground... but to me that sorta defeats the purpose of having a versatile system. Why even unpack your hammock at all and why lay your expensive hammock on the ground and risk hurting it. A polycro sheet weighs an ounce, packs small, and lets you just set that down with your pad on top to sleep cowboy, with a net, with just a tarp... or with a full ground system. (all while your bridge sits safely packed away).

    -I'm an ultralight guy at heart, which means minimalist at heart. Being a midwestern guy for most of the year the head net I'm already carrying will do the job... so netted hammocks have never been my thing. Overall I find the bug net is in my way and unneeded weight.
    While it is true you can 'unzip' an integrated net or even fully remove it... you still have half a zipper to carry all of the time. As opposed to a slightly heavier bottom entry net part of the time. You also have a zipper to maintain or that can fail, and zippers tend not to appreciate any contact with the ground, especially a lighter #3 model. While some folks may say what's a few more ounces... some of my bridge bodies are under 8 ounces... so you're talking a 150% weight increase at times simply in zipper weight.

    Bonus reason-
    My stuff is expensive enough. It is difficult to integrate a net to a bridge (why the saddlebags are brilliant). It is more difficult to do on a recessed bar bridge, and even more difficult on one with adjustable ends you can dial in to fit you just right. I can integrate a net... but at what cost? Besides the $100+ it would add to your wallet... if it interferes with the function and comfort of the bridge that's the biggest selling point I offer.

    That said- one of these days it may happen. I do have enough customers in the southeast who do want an integrated net that they would not ever remove. For those customers then it makes more sense to offer an enclosed system even if it's not a convertible one. Few of us own one backpack... so at some point having a 'fixed net' bridge body model is in the cards for seasonal use. Not every piece of gear needs to be a 'do it all' and I don't have an issue with a specialized piece of gear. For my limited production though- keeping it simple is the only realistic way to put them in people's hands.

  4. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Cary, NC
    Pick one?
    Love some down
    Beetle Buckles
    Like others have said, I use different hammocks for different situations. I have 5 different gathered ends from various vendors and 2 bridges - a Warbonnet Ridgerunner and a Luxury from Bill. Each of them has their own challenges and selling points. If I want to be ultra lightweight, I take one of the gathered ends and a small tarp. If I'm not hiking that far and I want to be more comfortable, I take one of the bridges with an airplane hangar of a tarp (my Winter Dream with the 3 pole mod) and still come in under 15lbs . The Luxury bridge is my favorite to get the best sleep. It allows me to sleep in almost any position that I like (I think Bill has a video showing how many different positions you can get in). The Ridgerunner seems a little tighter, but I do like the integrated bug net. The Ridgerunner has underquilts specifically designed for it (I just got my new Ridge Reaper yesterday - thanks George), but I don't have any problems adapting a gathered end underquilt to work on my Luxury bridge. I don't know where to tell you to start other than try them all and see which one you like. If you are ever in North Carolina, you are more than welcome to try mine.

  5. #25
    Member goalie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Dutch Hexon 1.6 single layer wide
    Kelty Noahs 9
    Cayene Pepper Wide
    Dutch whoopies
    Quote Originally Posted by sidneyhornblower View Post
    I've been testing one of his prototypes that has no bug net, so I just removed my net from my own bridge hammock and temporarily installed it on Bill's prototype. It's just a simple half bug net that drapes from the ridgeline and covers my upper torso. But check with Bill; if you get a hammock from him I'm sure he has bug net ideas and solutions, including his bottom entry style.
    He does have a net.

    Thanks for the replies.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    "It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Colorado Springs, CO
    WBBB XLC 1.7 single
    HG CF Std
    Mamba TQ/Wookie UQ
    Whoopie hooks
    I've been a XLC guy since I started hanging, but there's a part of me that is really wanting a RR. I'm normally way back in the mountains at a high lake, stalking trout, so weather protection is my single biggest concern. It can go from 70 and sunny to 30 and snowing sideways in minutes so despite the additional comfort of a bridge I'm just not able to risk it in the mountains.

    That said, this is the best thread on bridge hammocks I've ever read!

  7. #27
    TrailBlaser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Brewster NY
    WB Ridgerunner
    WB Thunderfly
    AHE Ridge Creek XL
    Maybe it is my luck or the abundance of trees where I camp (the Adirondacks), but I have never had a problem finding trees for a proper hang with my WBRR. The quality of sleep I get is outstanding, especially since I moved from using a pad to a TQ and UQ, saving both weight and space in my pack. I am using a HG Econ 20d TQ, a AHE Ridge Creek XL UQ and a 2QZQ UQ protector and I am very satisfied with each component of my sleep system. Combined with a WB Spindrift Sock for the shoulder seasons, I feel that I have assembled an effective, complete sleep system.

  8. #28
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Tupelo, MS
    Quote Originally Posted by Heydad! View Post
    I've been a XLC guy since I started hanging, but there's a part of me that is really wanting a RR. I'm normally way back in the mountains at a high lake, stalking trout, so weather protection is my single biggest concern. It can go from 70 and sunny to 30 and snowing sideways in minutes so despite the additional comfort of a bridge I'm just not able to risk it in the mountains.

    That said, this is the best thread on bridge hammocks I've ever read!
    I agree.

    However, re: weather protection, keep in mind that it is quite possible to protect a bridge ever bit as much as a gathered, it just requires an extra trick or 2.

    The most obvious solution is a larger tarp and/or some method of pulling the sides of the tarp out a few inches from the spreader bars. I have had for many years a JRB 11x10 sil-nylon rectangular tarp( 19 oz? ) that I use with all my hammocks. For my JRB bridges, I added some Grip-Clips ( can you still buy those? If not there are other ways) right at the point where spreader bars might contact the tarp. Then run a cord to a branch or hiking pole and pull out to widen at that point. This actually allowed me to close the ends if needed.

    But, admittedly, my WBRR has wider bars and longer suspension triangles than my JRBs, and I have not tried this to see how it would work with that hammock. Might require at least a longer tarp.

    But, there is another way to greatly increase protection, and maybe even warmth for a given weight set of quilts: UQPs. I have a WB sil-nylon poncho/pack cover/UQP that exactly fits my WBRR. It covers my AHE Ridge Creek UQ with some spare, to minimize contact with the quilt in case of condensation. Now, the main function needed fro the tarp is overhead rain protection. The UQP provides plenty of protection from side ways wind and rain. I even like to use a Baker Hut type of tarp pitch, with the windward side pitched close to the ground.

    This has actually worked fine for me whenever I used it, all by itself, with no UQP. And obviously lots of room for spreader bars. I must have been able to get enough end coverage from the trees providing some wind block. But, an UQP with a Baker Hut or more conventional pitch will provide a lot of protection.

    Admittedly, this is all easier and lighter with just a tarp and a GE, or a small tarp, UQP and GE. But, protection can be had. Maybe for the added weight of an UQP, or a slightly longer tarp with pull outs.

    EDIT: OTOH, if you are very comfy in your XLC, why would you fool with anything else, unless to just try it for fun?
    Last edited by BillyBob58; 05-31-2019 at 11:27.

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Valpo, IN
    Towns-End Luxury Bridge
    Quote Originally Posted by Heydad! View Post
    I've been a XLC guy since I started hanging, but there's a part of me that is really wanting a RR. I'm normally way back in the mountains at a high lake, stalking trout, so weather protection is my single biggest concern. It can go from 70 and sunny to 30 and snowing sideways in minutes so despite the additional comfort of a bridge I'm just not able to risk it in the mountains.

    That said, this is the best thread on bridge hammocks I've ever read!
    In the spirit of this thread (revisiting bridges overall)....
    I'll say something and preface it with being more compliment than a dig; For the most part when someone says 'bridge' what they really mean is 'Ridgerunner'.
    Often when discussing pros and cons of bridges we are discussing that particular model. Bit like using a Hennessy as the benchmark when discussing gathered ends... great system, well known, but with a few caveats.

    I would be surprised if there are much more than a few hundred or so folks out there who have used something other than a Ridgerunner or BMBH, likely much less than that.
    I hadn't even heard of the Chrysalis until recently and that's about the only commercial bridge that has been around more than a year or so. That product suffers from the simple fact that it is very heavy and better options have arrived (like the Amok) to satisfy comfort seekers who don't really need to worry about weight. I've never seen one in person.

    Some folks here have been fortunate to have bridges built by WV or Grizz, and perhaps a dozen or so others over the last decade or two... but arguably a drop in the bucket compared to the BMBH, let alone the RR.
    The Hiker Dad/Bic design is a great DIY gateway, but falls in with the BMBH and RR overall. WV's bridges offer more flexibility to play with ideas quickly and approachable.
    Grizz's Ariel is the gold standard of MYOG options of any hammock design released period and offers a huge leap forward in finished product, but is a difficult build to say the least.

    I admire very much what Brandon has done, but every design choice has it's trade-offs.
    I won't spill any trade secrets or talk too far out of school on that topic... it just is what it is.

    So regarding tree to tree and tarp sizes-
    With and end bar bridge- you need at least 6'6" or so between the bars for the occupant, after a little reality that means about a 6' bedspace effectively.
    From there you don't need TeeDee or Grizz levels of mathemagic to figure that the suspension triangle starts at the bars and takes up some space.
    Quick and dirty- each foot of spreader bar size adds that many feet of additional ridgeline distance.
    So take a 6' bedspace, with 3' bars on each side.... and you get a 12' Ridgeline minimum.

    Of course that doesn't really get you a great bridge, so you may do a few other things and end up with something closer to the RR which really needs at least 13' and preferably 14-15 for most people to string it tight enough. Since the suspension triangle is down where you sleep (not several feet above your head/feet like a gathered end) then you've got a serious problem closing up your tarp.

    Resolving that is a square peg/round hole problem that limits an end bar design.

    To be fair- hammock folks tend to like their high flying taut pitched tarps with doors... which may not always be the right way to approach a bridge.

    As a result you get concern number 2: After you've pitched this drum tight roof... what happens if them darned bars bump into it?
    To be fair again- this is more of a community pondering than a practical reality. If folks were actually poking holes into their tarps you'd see threads on it here and dozens of DIY videos about how to attach various things to your pole tip or how to perfectly pitch your tarp to avoid it. That's not to say someone hasn't bumped the wall, or been concerned about it. Nor to say that over time a pole tip in contact with a tarp may cause some wear. Mainly though I point out that it's a bit like running into a black bear... a huge concern for novices that turns out to be little more than a blurry butt in the leaves 99% of the time. I'm sure somewhere, someplace, there is some guy who 3:1 pully tensioned and ratchet strapped his tarp into place and shoved a trekking pole (not a spreader bar) through a tarp just to prove it can be done.

    This tarp issue is a 'con' to the Ridgerunner bridge, and a fair one. To swing back full circle- it is a con to ANY end bar model... even mine.
    To get that square peg into a round hole you can cheat a little (the old whack it with a mallet approach) which I do to cheat my 'Just a Bridge' prototype into a 12' tarp footprint.
    The better way though is to simply build a round peg- which is what a recessed bar bridge offers.

    Remember above- bedspace+spreader bars= RL distance. A recessed bar doesn't violate that formula- it just bends it.
    You need 6' of bedspace... but what if you could support 6-12" of that OUTSIDE the end bar... and therefore build a smaller end bar bridge with extensions on each end.
    That's basically the entire summary of what Grizz discusses in his decade old history of bridges video... since then from extensions to end caps, to unibody designs... you're playing with that theme.
    If you can use a smaller bar- you need less RL. If you can put the bar just where you need it... you need less. If you go crazy with those extremes you get my original Micro Bridges.
    If you balance it all out... you get something elegant like the Ariel. If you step back from the cliff of my Micro- you can apply those structural lessons all the way up to my Mountain hanger Prototypes which may prove to be a truly two person sized single bedspace... or at worst a really nice size for Tim, lol.

    So I would not automatically assume that a different model bridge couldn't address the tarp or storm-worthiness issues...
    I actually worked very hard to address that very issue with my designs. ALL of my suspension fits within the RL distance I design for, and my bridges are controlled by an ARL to ensure that the bridge functions as designed within that footprint. My Big Guy and Luxury fit completely within a 12' RL. My Happy Medium Design a 10'. My Original Micro went all the way down to an 8' footprint.

    Again... tradeoffs, balance, and simple design choices from one product to another.
    An end bar model is more affordable to build, and most importantly... easier to mass produce.
    The next challenge is how to scale a recessed bar design better... and for me personally... to actually offer the system that would resolve these concerns.

    Since most picture a ridgerunner... I picture something different.!Apygyt54yYPwhK5WV59SaEv3uQNTGQ

    I have shared these pictures before- but when I picture bridges I picture an 'Air Bivy' first. A minimal design like my original micro... but less extreme for the masses.

    If you have a compact bridge- you have a compact tree to tree distance and tarp.
    If you have a stakeless tarp design- then the tarp just sways with the bridge and works WITH it... not OVER it. Because of the suspension triangles you have more airflow inside than many picture. If you pair the tarp with an Umbrella or trekking pole... you can make a fairly comfy interior space. Just as important... that coverage doesn't HAVE to rely on stakes. It can simply rely on itself, much in the same way a good bivy bag or quality rain jacket covers you. You can always add stakes and guylines to open things up- or to add a porch for cooking in a light rain. But when you really want to batten down the hatches you have nearly 360* coverage.

    Tarp pitching is really an art. That's why folks do take some well deserved pride in clean lines, organized stake outs and wrinkle free pitches. It takes work to do that and looks very sharp.
    That said... it isn't always the most practical system to employ... even less so with a bridge hammock perhaps.

    To me it boils down to this; if you are choosing a bridge hammock then work with that choice, not against it. Let that be the core of the system and build around it.
    If you're looking to stay on the fast and light side of things- Slip on a raincoat- not erect a portable roof.

    If you're looking for a solid base camp- as others mentioned... if you're going to go for it then go for it. Get that 12 or 13' tarp palace and pole mods and really put up a portable roof.

    The Ridgerunner system does a decent job of walking between those two extremes... but it's only one bridge design, not the definition.
    Hope that doesn't come off as a 'rant'... at some point there is little point in calling it facial tissue when everyone else calls it Kleenex, lol.
    Again, more compliment to Brandon than complaint. It's actually funny to me having had a person or two argue that what I build is not a bridge... after which they outline all the reasons I didn't build a ridgerunner clone.

    All 'Bridge' means is that you are more or less following the design principal of a SUSPENSION BRIDGE.
    "A suspension bridge is a type of bridge in which the deck (the load-bearing portion) is hung below suspension cables on vertical suspenders"

    There are thousands of variations on suspension bridge designs... no matter how extreme they get. But we all get a basic picture in our minds and that can limit our thinking on what is possible if we let it.

  10. #30

    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Valpo, IN
    Towns-End Luxury Bridge
    Quote Originally Posted by TrailBlaser View Post
    Maybe it is my luck or the abundance of trees where I camp (the Adirondacks), but I have never had a problem finding trees for a proper hang with my WBRR. The quality of sleep I get is outstanding, especially since I moved from using a pad to a TQ and UQ, saving both weight and space in my pack. I am using a HG Econ 20d TQ, a AHE Ridge Creek XL UQ and a 2QZQ UQ protector and I am very satisfied with each component of my sleep system. Combined with a WB Spindrift Sock for the shoulder seasons, I feel that I have assembled an effective, complete sleep system.
    One thing not often discussed is that the larger tree to tree distance isn't automatically a bad thing... or at least as bad as non-bridge owners speculate.

    Bridges pitch shallower... as in less than 30*. To a large extent the longer the distance the shallower you hang it.
    When loaded it will more or less settle into the 30* angle, but at the start it's lower.

    A gathered end's suspension point (the apex of a bridge) is generally higher relative to the seated position of the user. And the 30* then takes off from there. So you don't have to get too far beyond the 12' or so tree to tree distance where those under 6' tall start to have issues finding a spot they can hang without assistance.

    The point being- many gathered end users will find that they reach a point where they cannot hang a gathered end at longer tree to tree distances. They simply are not tall enough.
    So when they hear distances in excess of 15' or so... they are picturing trying to shimmy their tree straps up to make that work and it seems unreasonably long.

    So finding the actual space to hang is more of an overblown issue than a real problem in my experience as well.
    On average at a 12-14' tree to tree distance for my bridges I hang my straps between shoulder and forehead high (at 5'10").

    On the flipside:
    You can hang a bridge 25' tree to tree and still be able to get the strap high enough. Obviously it took a spare strap but I've gone over 30'...
    Because of the way a bridge lays- you can hang it a bit lower when needed without kissing the ground.
    You also have spreader bars handy if you want to go more extreme to assist with sliding the straps up a tree an extra foot or more when hanging on uneven ground and that down hill tree would normally preclude you from getting a good hang due to the slope you're over.

    As far as shoe horning one in and going back to Cougarmeat's point that got these responses started...
    That goes back to the extra wide stakeout that folks are trying to employ to clear the spreaderbars... moreso than the length of the hammock I think.
    I believe that's more the point that he was making... that in denser brush it is hard to find a 12'x10' wide spot clear enough to get the tarp up.

    I've seen some folks pitch some very extreme steep wall tarps with a gathered end for this reason and goes more to the point I was making in the post above...
    If you have an alternate tarp pitch (like a stakeless) then you are taking little or no room up.

    Also- my original micro bridges were designed for FKT (Fastest Known Time) speed trips... where you hike all day long, set up in the dark, and don't give a crap about your surroundings.
    If you're not stealth camping, then you're left to the last few crappy spots that nobody else could squeeze into.
    With an 8' ridgeline and a stakeless tarp system you can camp nearly anywhere, including spots most gathered ends wouldn't be able to and still sleep fairly well.
    That type of bridge takes up a smaller footprint than your average 11' GE with 10' hex tarp... and competes fairly well on weight of the total system to boot.

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