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  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisJHC View Post
    I also use this approach. The best part is that you can easily tie the marlinspike hitch anywhere along the guy line so you can make the guy line as long or short as needed (usually to fit in with the ground conditions).
    Problem is that the hitch slips if you use zing-it. The line is too slippery.


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  2. #12
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Sep 2015
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    East of Montauk, NY
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    If you're clipping the Hook Worm to shock cord, just squeeze the hook a bit tighter so it won't fall off when the shock cord is slacked. When it's stretched tight and under tension, the Worm is going nowhere but you'll be able to unhook it from the thinner stretched shock cord. It will work, but I would switch to Tarp Worms.. at this point, Tarp Worms are the ONLY piece of hardware I carry anywhere on my tarp(s) or hammock(s).
    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

  3. #13
    New Member
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    Jan 2016
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    Dallas, TX
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    DIY - Banana Boat (11'x59")
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rex Clifton View Post
    Problem is that the hitch slips if you use zing-it. The line is too slippery.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    I've used Zing-it, lash-it, and other generic 1.75 mm throw line with no problems using a marlin spike. Essentially splice a loop on one end of the tie out, so it can be larksheaded in the grommett or grossgain... then bury the end for a good termination.... then use a marlin spike (using the tent stake as the toggle), pull the line tight, then place the stake in the ground.

  4. #14
    New Member
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    May 2018
    Location
    California
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    DW Banyan Bridge
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rex Clifton View Post
    The only thing I can think of is put a loop on the stake then larkshead the guylines on to the tarp. When you want to deploy, attach the hook on the stake loop and tighten from there. Kind of awkward, though.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Hi Rex, I’m going to try this also, but I am curious about what might make this awkward. I’ve seen some people mention that they don’t like adjusting tension near the stake because they have got kneel down, but then I notice that videos that show the trucker hitch show the adjustments being done down near the stake also.

  5. #15
    Senior Member old4hats's Avatar
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    I have been using hook worms on all my tarps since they hit the market. A larksheaded loop on the tarp, and the cord larksheaded to the stake. I roll each line onto the stake. Some consider this too fussy, but they are never tangled. I see no change in my future.
    If you prepare for failure you will probably succeed.

  6. #16
    FLTurtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Orlando FL
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    DW Chameleon, WB Eldorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by old4hats View Post
    I have been using hook worms on all my tarps since they hit the market. A larksheaded loop on the tarp, and the cord larksheaded to the stake. I roll each line onto the stake. Some consider this too fussy, but they are never tangled. I see no change in my future.
    I set up my Thunderfly with shock cord loops on the tie outs, added Hookworms to the guy lines, and attached the guy lines to the stakes. I removed the pull loops from the stakes (MSR Groundhogs) and threaded the guy lines through the hole and tied them off. I wrap the guy lines around the stakes when packing up and like you, no tangles. Makes the stake bag a little bulky, but overall it works fine.

    For my Superfly, I ditched the hardware entirely. Just larksheaded the guylines to the tie outs and MSH them to the stakes. I wrap the guy lines up with the tarp when rolling it up and pulling over the mesh tarp sleeve.

  7. #17
    New Member
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    May 2018
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    Thanks. There are so many options in this forum for tarp tie out/guy out rigging. I've experimented with quite a few options (and learned a few knots!) and still don't know why I should prefer one over the other. Most of the choices I read about seem to be about driven by preference. I did reach out to my DCF tarp manufacturer, Hammock Gear, and Harry recommended that while not necessary, the shock cord loops could help to prevent putting excessive strain on the tarp, especially if I was over tightening the lines. That helps!

    For each tarp corner, I'm going to attach (via larks head) a 4" long 3/32" diameter shock cord loop to the Beastee D ring. Then from the Y stake, I will attach (via larks head) an 8' long 1.8 mm Reflect It line, with a Dutchware Hookworm, and an overhand knot on the end of the line to keep the hookworm from falling off.

    If the shock cord loops fail, my backup option is to attach the lines to the tarp, wrap the end around the Y stake, and use a truckers hitch to secure the line.

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