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  1. #11
    Member Bennington.Camper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgringo View Post
    I wouldn't hang from ANY masonry wall.
    Care to elaborate with any factual data to support this?

  2. #12
    Senior Member
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    Mar 2016
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    Raleigh, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bennington.Camper View Post
    Care to elaborate with any factual data to support this?
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...Concrete-Block

    There’s at least one post floating around from an actual engineer who stated the warnings in the above thread. I didn’t read closely enough to see if it’s in that thread, but you should be able to get the jist.

  3. #13
    New Member Ohdogg79's Avatar
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    Mar 2019
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    Ocala FL
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    I was able to get one hammock installed back in June and slept in it for ~10 nights while family was in town. but didn’t get the second installed until this weekend. So figure I should do an update post since I’m finally done. I’m super unfamiliar w/ posting pics on this site so I believe I uploaded them to “the gallery” but I’ll try to post here as well.

    Got a good tip on a great bracket from Dutch. Can’t believe I hadn’t checked there already! But he’s got an adjustable aluminum bracket that would work well for two of my 3 points. For the “main anchor point”, I took advantage of some metal fabrication equipment we have at work. Cut out a plate of 1/4” steel so I could weld in some 3/8” nuts.
    78E90D6C-75F9-4928-A237-46AB6C8D3073.jpeg

    Then I cut down some eyelet bolts so they wouldnt stick out further than needed. I mounted this plate to a stud using some 3.5” long, extra-thick structural screws. Making a plate like this allowed me to keep it “thin” enough that a standard canvas picture or painting can simply hang over the plate once the eyelets are removed.
    2F79C51F-9555-4B5A-ADC0-F7C027416355.jpeg

    At the other end of the hammocks is exterior 8” thick brick wall. I mounted the Dutch brackets there making sure to be in the meat of the bricks (not on a mortar joint). I used lag shields and a different structural screw to mount these.
    F3344101-D93D-49FE-911F-9A3694A04AAB.jpeg

    Tested each side by tying a double length of webbing from anchor to anchor, and tightening it as much as I could so the webbing had little to no sag in it. Then both my wife and I put all our weight on the webbing. Per my calculations, this method should have put at least 1000lb of horizontal (pulling) force on each anchor. My biggest concern here (and what everyone has rightly been saying is the problem w/ masonry) was that the brick wall anchors, or the wall itself, wouldn’t be strong enough to resist this large tensile force. At this point, I’m quite satisfied that my anchors are strong enough. And while I have no doubt that my specific masonry walls are strong enough, I’ll certainly be keeping an eye out for any cracks showing up in the paint

  4. #14
    New Member Ohdogg79's Avatar
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    Forgot to post the last pic w/both hammocks up at once
    B0482471-2E06-4E23-BFAE-DED1EE0EEE67.jpeg

  5. #15
    New Member
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    Dec 2018
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    Buford, GA
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    That's hilarious...made me giggle picturing the bull with the nose ring...

  6. #16
    New Member
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    Sep 2019
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    Joliet, Il
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    Hi,

    I would like to share photos of my winter indoor "basement hang" set up. Suspended between central support poles that are sunk into the concrete floor and bolted to a I-beam above, IMG_20190915_215004895.jpgIMG_20190915_215155376.jpg

    Last image is actually a photo of my outdoor set up 4 X 4 post set in concrete which I'm going to re-do. I know this is the wrong post, but concrete or gravel?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by kquest; 09-15-2019 at 22:11. Reason: wrong photo

  7. #17
    New Member Ohdogg79's Avatar
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    Nice setup @kquest! A wide open basements/ support posts like that is about as good an indoor setup as you can ask for. I grew up outside Chicago and loved having a basement lots of fun times! No basements in FL

    As for the outdoor setup, I assume you’re asking if you should redo it w/ concrete or gravel? Certainly concrete is the standard easy way, but gravel (or other good backfill dirt) is very doable as well. The hard part if you don’t use concrete, is compacting the dirt around the post as you backfill. If you don’t compact it well, your post will be wobbly and lean very quickly.
    A little “pro tip” for setting a post in concrete... you don’t have to mix the concrete and then pour it in the hole. You can literally pour the DRY concrete mix in the hole, wet it slightly (not too much), and walk away. You’ll need to leave the post undisturbed longer (at least a 3-5 days), but it saves the mess and hassle of mixing and cleaning. The concrete will pull enough moisture from the dirt to setup. You can pre-wet the ground around the hole and the hole itself to make sure there’s enough moisture if your in a dry area or dry time of year.
    Last, a 4x4 post is really pushing the lower edge of strength needed, esp if you use a cedar post. A pressure treated 6x6 is ideal. OR you can do 4x4s and attach a board across the top to stop them from bowing in towards eachother. If you do this, just keep this board up high enough so it doesn’t become a forehead knocker

  8. #18
    New Member
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    Sep 2019
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    Joliet, Il
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    Hi Ohdogg79,

    Thank you for your kind comments and advise.

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