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    Michigan NCT SB 131/Roadside Park to Udell/M55, July 5-8, 2019, 62 miles Solo



    Once again, I was due to get out for some hang time, so I headed back to the North Country Trail through one of my favorite sections of the Manistee Forest, with big views along the Manistee River. I've done this section before, in different directions, but when I looked at the map, it made sense to do it north to south as a 67 mile segment and it would fill in 6 miles of trail I hadn't done from High Bridge Trailhead South to Udell/M55. Disclaimer: In keeping with my tradition of long winded and picture heavy trip reports, you won't be disappointed.

    Timing for the trip had to fit around the 4th of July long weekend and go from Friday to Monday. Last year I hiked a NCT section before in high temps and swore I wouldn't do it again, but I guess I have a short memory because I was gung go to get out again, even though I knew I'd have temps in the 80s and low 90s. The only saving grace is that I like to get out on the trail early, when I knew I'd have the benefit of 50 or 60 degree hiking weather for a couple hours.



    I needed transport, so I reached out to Patty from the Grand Traverse Hiking Club of the NCT. She is a true trail angel and agreed to meet this stranger at a trailhead. I had also read about her in Luke "Strider" Jordan's account of his NCT thru hike and Annie Nelson' s current hike on the NCT westbound to North Dakota.

    On this trip, I also started used the free Avenza map app and the complimentary maps that are available for download from the NCT. With good cell coverage and the gps on my cell , this app worked great and was very helpful.

    So, on with the adventure.



    Day 1: 131 to Manistee River Camp, 19.2 miles
    I was on the road from Clarkston at 4:45 am and made great time for the 200 mile trip to the Udell Trailhead on M-55, about 15 miles past where I'd normally turn if I was doing the NCT/MRT loop. I rolled in a little after 8 and Patty showed up right after me. Introductions were made, I loaded up and we hit the road for the 62 mile drive back up to my starting point. Halfway there, I realized I left my leg gaiters back in my car cooler, where I had my loose gear stashed. Note to self: next time put everything in a clear zip lock bag so I know I have everything. It turns out, not having them would come back to haunt me and I'd pay a big price for it later.

    By 9:15 we made it to 131/scenic lookout (NCT mile 741) and we walked down the trail a bit and said our goodbyes and she took a picture of me that ended up on their chapter Facebook page.



    On the trail, I walked through familiar territory and enjoyed just being out along the river. Going through old 131 State Forest Campground and seeing where I camped on the "v" of the rivers on a prior trip was nice ( https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...-days-55-miles). I continued on the NCT and made pretty good time, even though it was starting to heat up into the mid 80s, bringing out swarms of mosquitoes. I meandered along, passing small creeks and going up and down the hills, where I'd always get rewarded with a great view along the river.



    At 11:30 I arrived at Townline Trailhead (747.6), after 5.82 miles and took a short break to recharge. I'd have a few miles to go before I hit my first 2.5 mile road walk. It wasn't too bad but it was getting real hot and I was starting to feel some irritation after pounding my feet on the roadway. Grit and dirt from the trail didn't help things much either.



    At 2:20 PM and 11.7 miles, I was back on the trail and needed a pack off break. I was really feeling the fatigue after being up since 4:30 and was doing everything I could to drink as much water as possible. Any opportunity for water I took using my newly replaced Sawyer be free filter (free after I complained) and smaller bag. I even had a small wet towel I'd keep on the back of my neck to help me feel cool. I hiked along at a little slower pace for the next couple miles then finally hit High Banks Rollaway Vista (755.5) and found a bench to lay on and relax. I even closed my eyes for a bit and fell asleep. According to my phone, temps were in the low 90s and I was feeling it.

    I knew I only had 5 miles to go, so I got back on the trail and followed the hilly terrain along the river, recognizing many of the places I had hiked last back in 2015.





    I passed a familiar spot where a group of slackers were set up and knew my campsite was getting close. The NCT follows some two tracks, that unfortunately makes for some easy access for people to come back and and do the opposite of LNT camping. My campsite at mile 760.5 was back where the NCT is just a trail, so rolling coolers back and dragging a pop up screen house isn't easy. At 6:30 on I arrived after a long 19.2 miles and 7:37 of hiking, with many breaks taken.



    I didn't take many pics at my site that night since I was exhausted. I setup at my old spot overlooking the river, took a swim to cool down and just relaxed. Finally around 8, I got motivated to cook up some camp chow bacon cheeseburger soup, crack my traditional first night beer and polished it off with a hostess fruit pie. I did notice some foot issues and a couple blisters coming on, so I knew I was going to have problems this trip….yep, having my leg gaiters would have gone a long way.




    Around 8:30 I was ready to call it a night, so I hung my food and took another swim, since it was still in the upper 70s. It was nice enjoying the quiet, until the hoodlums a quarter mile away decided it was time for fireworks. Apparently they didn't read the memo about fireworks not being allowed in a national forest with high fire danger. Finally by 11, they must have run out of matches and PBR, since they finally settled down or passed out.

    After that I had a restful sleep and was up around 5 for another day on the NCT.

    Day 2. Manistee stealth to Eddington creek. 18 miles


    I got myself organized, had breakfast of grapenuts and nido with sugar and craisins, carnation instant breakfast and cold coffee, since I had no interest in firing up my stove. I knew I had a long day ahead at 23 miles on the map (more about that later) and was proud of myself for getting on the trail at 6:15 in the cool 55 degree temps.

    It took a little time for my feet and legs to get up to speed, but my feet did hurt and I was feeling more irritation. I set my sights for Eddington Creek and just looked at the day as short segments with a short goal. 5 miles ahead was Harvey bridge, where I'd water up and take a break. I really enjoyed this section, since the views along the river were amazing.






    Around 9, I arrived at Harvey Bridge (765.5) and had knocked off 24.6 miles total since Friday. My normal 2.5 mile per hour pace was slipping to about 2, since I was really feeling it with my feet. Lack of gaiters were coming back to haunt me. I took another short break and check my maps for my next goal of where the trail ends and goes into a dirt roadwalk, then the section I dreaded along busy, hot M-37.



    Finally by 10:30,I was at 12/15 Road (NCT mile 768) and the section I was dreading. When I did this trail a couple years ago, the guy on the corner offered me water so I took him up on it and I reciprocated by helping him load a sofa in his truck. I was really hoping there would be signs of life or a car there when I passed it. Unfortunately it was quiet and my hopes of getting a lift down the road were dashed. So I had 2 miles of hot roadway, plus the dirt road that I already walked, making for over 3 miles of wasted energy. And of course, I hit it in full sunlight and very little shade.





    By noon I was back in the woods, going through pine plantations along the river. A lot of the property is owned by Consumers Energy, so two track access is mostly cut off and camping is not allowed.





    At 2:30 I popped out of the woods, crossed M-115, went into the pines again, then came out at Fletcher Creek Trailhead after a total of 15 miles of hiking. My feet were killing me and I knew I had to do something. I had 8 miles to go to Eddington Creek and the thought of 5 miles along Hodenpyl Dam Pond wasn't too pleasant. So, I did what ever any tired hiker would do and skip down to the next trailhead. I stood outside the Fletcher Creek Campground looking aimlessly at my maps, then would look up at any car going by or pulling out. Then, the thumb would go up and I'd hope for a bite. Luckily, a father and son took pity on me and gave me a lift to the trailhead by the dam, leaving me 3 miles to go. They had just picked up pizza and it smelled amazing….I almost offered him $5 for a slice, but felt I had already tormented them enough with my stench.





    Back on familiar trail, it was an easy 3 hike to Eddington Creek. I moved slow and got into the pines at 4:00 pm after a hard 18 miles. It didn't take long to get set up, filter water, then soak my tired feet and body in the ice cold creek. Shortly after I arrived, two backpackers and a dog came through my camp and tucked in way back in the woods. I never heard them all night and they caught up to me the next day, even though I left very early.

    I enjoyed a quiet evening, had my Velveeta mac and cheese, plus ate a variety of junk food I'd brought along. I cleaned up my feet, took some aspirin and had an adult libation to relax. Sleep came early and by 8:30 I was done for the night. Only thing I was worried about is how my feet would feel the next day.





    Day 3. Eddington creek to Sawdust Hole Camp, 14 miles
    With temps in the mid 50's I slept great and awoke around 5:30. Another breakfast of grape nuts, carnation instant breakfast and hot coffee filled me right up. By 7:30 I was on the NCT heading south, with 7 miles until I hit the Upper River Road Trailhead at mile 790.

    I've hiked this section many times as part of the NCT/MRT loop and I've always enjoyed it. It was still in the 60s and warming up, my feet felt ok but I was moving slow. I figured I'd get to the Upper River Road Trailhead intersection at 790 and take a break. Depending on how feet felt, I briefly considered bailing out there and finding a ride back to the Udell Trailhead where my car was.





    As I was walking, I met another hiker, Alan ( I hope I remembered that right) who was taking a break, so I stopped to talk a bit. He was out on his very first solo backpacking trip. Wow, that brought some memories back since its been ten years since I started at when I turned 45 years old. I was kind of blown away because he said he recognized me from one of my trip reports.

    Around 11, I made It to the Upper River Road/NCT intersection, after one of my slowest sections yet. This was my halfway point for the day and after taking a pack off break, I felt recharged for the next leg to Sawdust Hole mile at 796.7.





    Back on the trail, it was a short mile till I went down hill to Coates Highway, crossed it then went back up on the ridge. I met another backpacker coming north and the next day I'd find his name in the trail register. This next section of the NCT keeps you mostly above Tippy Dam Pond, but you do get some nice views and in my opinion, one of the most beautiful forest walks I've ever experienced.

    Part of it goes through Tribal Lands and there's something about it that's almost spiritual. A couple years ago I hiked through it mid day, but there was a weather front coming through so it seemed liked late dusk.



    I had plenty of water with me and in this section and at mile 792.5, you can get down to the road, then cut though the woods to the big pond. On a previous trip, I couldn't find a safe way down the bluff to the water. The only other option would have been to go down Coates Highway to Red Bridge for water, but that would be over a mile detour down a busy paved road.

    I continued my slow walk after taking a break on a stump at 794 and 11 miles in for the day. After that, it was 3 more miles. My feet were really bothering me and around 5, I got into camp at the intersection of the NCT and the spur trail to Sawdust Hole Campground. I could have taken the spur trail, but it was easily a half mile and I knew there was no water pump. I'd have to still go to the river and I could camp for free where I already was.



    Sunday's hike was a long 14 miles and I was pretty much down to a slow shuffle. Mentally, I was pretty beaten down. But, with one more day to go I'd complete what I set out to do. I kept my backpack on then headed down the bluff to the grassy Sawdust Hole area around the river. I didn't want to leave it unattended, plus maybe I'd find a spot to camp at the bottom. I followed the overgrown boardwalk, bushwacked to the river and found there was no way to get down.





    A little further there's a creek and a wooden bridge I'd remembered from before. Perfect! I filled my 1st water bladder then went to get the second one. This is where it all went downhill. I was so happy that my feet and socks stayed dry all day, but things happen. Filling my second bladder, the muddy riverbank gave way and one foot went under. While trying to stay upright and get my balance, the other foot slipped in, so now both shoes were soaked.

    I took a break to think over my situation. Wet, sore feet and I was wiped out. I regrouped and headed back up the hill to my original site. All in all, it was a half mile detour added to an already long and tiring day.

    So, back up in camp I started to get set up right next to the trail intersection, where there's an established campsite with a rock fire ring. I had a false start after getting my hammock and tarp setup that one off the trees was rotten. I rotated to another tree and was good to go. Cooking a hot meal had no appeal to me, so I just dug through my snacks and gorged on slim jims, peanuts, pizza combos, butterfingers and baby ruth's. A very healthy meal and I finished off my adult libation. Prior to dinner I started the process of drying out my socks, liners and shoes, hoping that they would be dry enough the next day to wear.

    I relaxed the rest of the evening and enjoyed a podcast from the comfort of my hammock overlooking the valley below. Sleep came very easy that night and I was looking forward to getting home.







    Day 4. Sawdust Hole to Udell Trailhead, 11 miles

    Waking up at my regular time of 5:30, I had a quick breakfast, bandaged and used the moleskin to fix some of the worst areas on my feet. By 7, I was packed and ready to start my final day on the trail. I was so happy that my socks and shoes were dry and comfortable. Little did I know that it wouldn't last long.

    After making the long slog downhill, I entered the "hole". The morning dew from the overgrown grass on the boardwalk and trail soaked my shoes, socks and shorts within 5 minutes. It is what it is and I'd just have to deal with it. Like the rest of the trip, I just looked ahead on the map and just aimed to complete short sections.











    I only had a mile or so of the "hole" but it seemed like it took forever. There were some nice views of the river, but still I had wet feet. This section in particular is in dire need of a brush hog. I even scared up a couple deer. Finally, I climbed out at mile 798.5 and found a pretty amazing hang spot on the top of the hill. But, I did feel I made the right decision backtracking the day before to stick with my original plan.







    This next section through the woods was really enjoyable, since there's areas of the trail where your walking a knife edge with deep ravines on either side. As I got closer to High Bridge Access (802) I could start hearing the cars and that re-invigorated me, knowing I had 5 miles to go. I took a short break there, drank some water and had some snacks.





    From here to Udell would be new trail for me on the NCT. By 10, I entered more of the soggy, overgrown Blacksmith Bayou area and soaked my feet again with the wet grass. They had almost dried completely from the earlier walk through the woods. At around mile 803 it was back to 2 tracks, then a dirt road for at least 3 miles.







    I had another break planned at around 805.7 and stopped at a free use hiker camp on private property that I think was called "Pine Bluff". There's a trail log there, which I signed and the campsite has been around since 2001. I found the entry for Luke "Strider" Jordan from 2013 and Annie Nelson's from just this past May 2019. Very cool! The camp had a locked old cabin, pit toilet, fireplace, picnic table, water and a line to hang food. It sits at the edge of a bluff overlooking a river and is right next to a homestead.







    I wish I could have pushed myself the day before to stay there, but there was no way I could have made it. It did have lots of pines, but the placement wasn't optimal. I also read something in the register about poison ivy and that would have been a deal killer for me.

    The long break felt nice and I finally got on the trail around noon for the last 2 miles or so of my hike. It was an easy walk in the woods as I dreamed of stopping at McDonald's in Cadillac for a grease fix. I knew I was close when I started hearing traffic and popped out of the woods on M-55 across the street from the Udell Trailhead. I did 11 miles that day and the trip was over.



    Closing thoughts:
    I did a total of 67 miles, but deducted 5 for the car ride, so 62 is what I actually hiked. It took me close to 30 hours of walking time at a pace of 2.2 miles per hour. Not having the gaiters contributed to the destruction of my feet. I counted 4-5 blisters in various stages, a whole section of missing skin on the underside of my second toe, and a callused, split and mishapened little toe that has been an ongoing issue for the past 2 years. One week later, I'm almost all healed up, but I still walk a little funny.

    Did I have fun? Yes. I love getting out on the trail and live the experience, including the highs and the lows. It was a tough trip...it hads long, hard days and some brutal roadwalks. It was hot and the mosquitoes would come and go. Would I do it again? Most likely, because I have a short memory. What did I get out of it? Peace, a sense of accomplishment and I offered it up because I had to (more about that in the epilogue).

    I had 4g ATT cell coverage for 99 percent of the trip, providing me comfort to check in with family and friends and check the weather. I made a conscious effort to not check email and I stayed pretty true to that. All of my gear was my standard kit for hot weather. There were a few things I brought extra that didn't get used, but it was still nice to know I had them. I did have too much food, since the weather was hot and my appetite just wasn't there. If it was 50 degrees all day and not 80, that food would have been gone.

    I did a count and right now I'm at 620 miles completed on the NCT through Michigan. Another 250 or so to go in the UP and I hope to complete that in the next 2-3 years. I'd also like to thank Patty again from the local chapter for shuttling me and everything the chapters do in maintaining and promoting the NCT.

    Link to full album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wXbm2c9z2bWW72Nr6

    Epilogue:
    The next section is more about how I got into backpacking and the journey it's taken me on….
    I took my first real backpacking trip in August of 2009 to Isle Royale National Park, 10 years ago. I had just turned 45 and next month I'll be 55. My daughter's attended Catholic school and I was lucky enough to be asked to fill in at the last minute to join a trip to Isle Royale with a group of dad's and son's, plus a Priest I knew. That trip was the catalyst that started me getting into backpacking. Even though we had torrential rains, my feet hurt and I was using heavy, borrowed gear, I learned alot on that trip, besides how to live in the woods. I learned the meaning of "offer it up" and other things to live by. Every year in July or August, I always try to get out for a solo backpacking trip to help me remember why I do it and put life in perspective.

    I dedicate this trip to my friend, Father G., who guided me on that first trip 10 years ago along the rocky trails of Isle Royale, as we both turn 55 within a month of each other.

  2. #2
    OneClick's Avatar
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    Thanks for taking us along! I think some spaces in the URL are screwing up the images? Not sure.

    Dave loves that extreme punishment. I'm heading up for some of my own. Hot. Humid. Dewpoints in the 70s. 70s!!!! Thanks Barry!

    Friday
    Partly sunny and hot, with a high near 94.

    Friday Night
    Partly cloudy, with a low around 72.

    Saturday
    Partly sunny and hot, with a high near 91.

    Saturday Night
    A chance of showers after 2am. Partly cloudy, with a low around 64.

    Sunday
    A chance of showers. Mostly sunny, with a high near 85.

  3. #3
    canoebie's Avatar
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    I paddle the stretch from 131 to Harvey Bridge about six to seven times a year. Hike the NCT usually once or twice. Lots of familiar sites. Those rollaways make for some majestic views on the bends. Thanks for taking us along. Great write up.
    “Things are as they are. Looking out into the universe at night, we make no comparisons between right and wrong stars, nor between well and badly arranged constellations.”
    ― Alan W. Watts


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  4. #4
    Senior Member Red Cinema's Avatar
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    Great report from my homeland

    Great to see some Michigan trail!

    Thanks for the terrific report.

    --TC Native


    [QUOTE=michigandave;1977857]

    Once again, I was due to get out for some hang time, so I headed back to the North Country Trail through one of my favorite sections of the Manistee Forest, with big views along the Manistee River. I've done this section before, in different directions, but when I looked at the map, it made sense to do it north to south as a 67 mile segment and it would fill in 6 miles of trail I hadn't done from High Bridge Trailhead South to Udell/M55. Disclaimer: In keeping with my tradition of long winded and picture heavy trip reports, you won't be disappointed.
    //
    “Stories set in the Culture in which Things Went Wrong tended to start with humans losing or forgetting or deliberately leaving behind their terminal. It was a conventional opening, the equivalent of straying off the path in the wild woods in one age, or a car breaking down at night on a lonely road in another.”
    ― Iain M. Banks, The Player of Games

  5. #5
    Senior Member TZBrown's Avatar
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    Great report Dave

    Thanks for sharing the adventure
    Life's A Journey
    It's not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body,
    But rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting,
    Woo Hoo!....What a Ride!

    My PHOTOS

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  6. #6
    alt.thomas's Avatar
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    Another awesome read. Thanks for sharing

  7. #7
    michigandave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneClick View Post
    Thanks for taking us along! Dave loves that extreme punishment. I'm heading up for some of my own. Hot. Humid. Dewpoints in the 70s. 70s!!!! Thanks Barry!
    Oh, you would have relished the chance to experience it with me. Have a great paddle!

    Quote Originally Posted by canoebie View Post
    I paddle the stretch from 131 to Harvey Bridge about six to seven times a year. Hike the NCT usually once or twice. Lots of familiar sites. Those rollaways make for some majestic views on the bends. Thanks for taking us along. Great write up.
    The rollaways are the high point of that section. You don't get the full effect until your up on top and have that great vista!

    Quote Originally Posted by Red Cinema View Post
    Great to see some Michigan trail! Thanks for the terrific report. --TC Native
    Lots of trails in Michigan to enjoy and I can't stress enough that you've got a pretty good chance of having the NCT all to yourself.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZBrown View Post
    Great report Dave. Thanks for sharing the adventure
    TZ: You're the one with the adventures. Looking forward to seeing you and hearing of your exploits with Dogger!

    Quote Originally Posted by alt.thomas View Post
    Another awesome read. Thanks for sharing
    Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for coming along!

    I think back on this last trip and even though it was a "repeat" of trail, mixing it up and doing it in the other direction made parts of it seem like new. The only negative is having to deal with roadwalks, but there's still tons of NCT sections where you can get out and have zero road time.

  8. #8
    Senior Member indiver's Avatar
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    Thanks Dave! I can use a lot of your info. I hope to make it up there to do a little more of the NCT this summer.

  9. #9
    OneClick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canoebie View Post
    I paddle the stretch from 131 to Harvey Bridge about six to seven times a year. Hike the NCT usually once or twice. Lots of familiar sites. Those rollaways make for some majestic views on the bends. Thanks for taking us along. Great write up.
    Great views last weekend. Crazy amount of rain one day but it was worth it.


  10. #10
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    Thanks for sharing. Love it when it's not all video. The written word with some pictures is more my taste in trip reports. Great job!
    Deb
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