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  1. #11
    rhjanes's Avatar
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    In your video, I do it the second way he is doing it. Except I make the loop the other way and move it UP and towards the tree. Like Shug shows. Agreed if you are using UCR or Whoopies, then the position of the toggle is more of a "close enough". IF you adjust your suspension and still have an issue, then loosen the MSH and move it.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member rweb82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmoulder View Post
    I experimented with several types of webbing, including a couple of "flavors" of UHMWPE (Venom and Myers) and found that their characteristics are much more like cord than webbing, and I've heard the same said of Spider and the WB version. Indeed, those small, hard knots are difficult to release with almost any kind of knot/hitch, and damage from the heat of friction is a very real problem.

    With Becket there is a trick you can do, which is to larkshead a little loop on the CL that can be used to pull the CL out and permit the easy release of the slipped bight. Here it is tied with Kevlar, but it works with any webbing.

    Yep, the pull handle is the way to go. I do the same thing with my setup. It makes the hitch extremely easy to undo.

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  3. #13
    New Member
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    I am started to splice additional loop-handle into my UCR and continuous loop. It really helps to get a good grip and unweight the becket hitch knot.
    IMG_20190903_195024.jpg

  4. #14
    Senior Member Baka Dasai's Avatar
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    Thanks for the video. It's useful.

    I used a marlin-spike since the beginning of my hammocking, but switched to a becket hitch a while ago. But in the last 6 months I've switched back to the marlin-spike. It definitely suits the thin UHMWPE straps better than the becket hitch. And it's just plain cool somehow. HYOH for sure.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by blackmagic View Post
    I'm not a whoopie sling user. I hang directly from the straps.

    For me, when I tie the marlinspike directly in the line, and then slip in a toggle and tighten it down, the toggle always slides down at least an inch or two. Even one or two inches makes all the difference when I'm trying to get the structural ridgeline into its goldilocks tightness.

    Could just be me, of course.
    It is not just you. When I stared out with hammocks...MANY years ago....things like "whoopie slings" were not a thing (yet). Setting up a hammock was always a bit "fiddly" to get the hammock and tarp centered, etc. In part, this is because knots, while adjustable, tend not easily adjustable without retying.

    My advice would be to add a something adjustable onto at least one end of your suspension to get some degree of easy adjustability into the suspension system. That makes tuning up the hang trivial. This could be whoopie slings, cinch buckles, Fig 9 biner, etc. There are tons of good options, depending on the details of your suspension.

    Alternatively, you need to get REALLY good at tying the marlins spike hitch exactly where you want it. It can be done quite accurately with practice. Start by measuring the distance from the tree using some section of your forearm. That will get you repeatable results very quickly. You can adjust from there.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by shichimi View Post
    I am started to splice additional loop-handle into my UCR and continuous loop. It really helps to get a good grip and unweight the becket hitch knot.
    IMG_20190903_195024.jpg
    This could also allow the OP to have two (or three) different "continuous loops" on each end of the hammock to hang off the toggle -- a bit like Daisy-chain webbing. This may get just enough adjustability into the system to meet his needs.

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